Barolo is a small city in the Piedmont region of north west Italy. It is part of the larger Langhe wine growing region. Barolo is world famous for the red wines made there from the nebbiolo grape.
The Barolo zone extends into the communes of Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba and parts of the communes of Cherasco, Diano d'Alba, Grinzane Cavour, La Morra, Monforte d'Alba, Novello, Roddi, Verduno, all in the province of Cuneo. Only vineyards, planted in primarily calcareous-clay soils, in the hills with suitable slopes and orientations are considered suitable for Barolo production. Barolo is made from 100% Nebbiolo and usually has the aromas of tar and roses. Barolos are noted for this ability to age and usually take on an orange tinge as they get older. When subjected to aging of at least five years, the wine can be labeled a Riserva.
In the past all Barolos used to be very tannic and they took more than 10 years to soften up. Fermenting wine sat on the grape skins for at least three weeks, extracting huge amounts of tannins; then it was aged in large, wooden casks for years. In order to meet the international taste, which preferred fruitier, more accessible styles, the "modernists" cut fermentation times to a maximum of ten days and put the wine in new French barriques (small oak barrels). The results, said "traditionalists", were wines that weren't even recognizable as Barolo and tasted more of new oak than of wine. The controversies between traditionalists and modernists have been called the "Barolo wars".
PLACE TO VISIT
Barolo is a world famous wine city. It is the namesake city for the "king of wines and the wine of kings." Barolo is a very scenic small town. The surrounding countryside is spectacular. There are some very panoramic views from the Castello Falletti. However, if you are not interested in wine, there is not much to see or do in Barolo. For the non-wine lover, it is probably not worth the drive up from Alba.
The most scenic spot in town is the Castello Falletti which is located in the center of town. The Castello Falletti contains a number of interesting sights, including a museum and an enoteca. The Castello was built in the 10th century for protection against marauding Huns. Parts of the original 10th century keep are still standing, although much of the original structure was destroyed by the Savoyards in 1544.
Castello Falletti, Piazza Falletti Daily 10AM-12:30PM and from 3PM-6:30PM, closed Thursday. Guided tours available in Italian English, French, and German. € 3.50 regular entrance; € 2.00 discount ticket: children 6 to 18, seniors.
A number of the most famous Barolo crus (specific vineyards) are located just outside the town of Barolo. For example, the cru Cannubi is on the south facing hillside on your right just before you enter the town on the road from Alba.
WHAT TO DO
Taste wine. Taste more wine. Buy wine. There are several good wine shops in town, and a number of famous producers have tasting rooms in the town. Many of the wine shops in town stock aged Barolos from as far back as the 1980s. The owners of wine shops typically have bottles open for tasting, and may open a specific bottle for tasting on request.
One prominent producer with a tasting room in the town is Marchesi di Barolo,
WINE
Barolo wine is produced from the Nebbiolo grape variety with the Lampia, Michet and Rosé clones authorized. The clusters are dark blue and greyish with the abundant wax that dresses the grapes. Their form is lengthened, pyramidal, with small, spherical grapes with substantial peel. The leaves are of average size with three or five lobes. Compared to the annual growth cycle of other Piedmontese grape varieties, Nebbiolo is one of the first varieties to bud and last variety to ripen with harvest taking place in mid to late October. In some vintages, other Piedmontese producers are able to pick and complete fermentation of their Barbera and Dolcetto plantings before Barolo producers have even begun their harvest.
According to DOCG regulations, Barolos are to be composed of 100% Nebbiolo. Historically producers would blend other grapes such as a Barbera and today there is speculation that modern Barolo producers maybe be blending in Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah but there has been no conclusive proof of this practice. In the 1990s producers in the Barolo zone petition that the required Nebbilo content be lowered from 100% to 90% but this petition was eventually defeated
HOW TO REACH
Barolo is located south of Alba. While there is bus service from Alba or other nearby cities, you need a car to get to Barolo and get around the area effectively.
From Milan, take the A7 Autostrada toward Turin. Near Tortona, exit onto the A21 Autostrada toward Asti Est. Exit A21 at Asti Est and follow the signs to Alba. 146km.
From the Turin Sud entrance to the A6 Autostrada, take A6 in the direction of Asti. Exit onto the A33 Autostrada. Exit A33 at Cherasco onto SP 12. From SP12, make a left onto SP 3 in the direction of Barolo. Continue on SP3. 71km.
From Alba, follow the signs on SP3 south to Barolo. It is 15 km from Alba to Barolo.
There is a free car park on the left as you enter the town. You can park there and get to any of the sights in Barolo in a few minutes on foot. The streets are quite narrow, so parking in the car park is a good idea.
