The Underground Railroad Bicycle Route, (a joint project of The Adventure Cycling Association and The Center for Minority Health), is another historical route, like the Lewis & Clark Trail Bicycle Route. The route honors the bravery of those who fled bondage and those who provided shelter. This route passes points of interest and historic sites along a corridor beginning in Mobile, Alabama, a busy port for slavery during the pre-civil war era. The route goes north following rivers through Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee, and Kentucky. Waterways, as well as the North Star, were often used by freedom seekers as a guide in their journeys to escape slavery. Upon crossing into Ohio, the route leaves the river to head toward Lake Erie and enters Canada at the Peace Bridge near Buffalo, New York. In Ontario, the route follows the shores of Lake Ontario and ends at Owen Sound, a town founded by freedom seekers in 1857. Owen Sound is located on the southern side of Lake Huron’s Georgian Bay. The route is a total of 2027 miles (3264 km) .
The Underground Railroad Bicycle Route is the result of a three year long collaborative
effort between the Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) and The Center for Minority Health (CMH), part of the University of Pittsburgh Graduate School of Public Health. Together, they worked to develop a cycling route that would not only contribute to better fitness, but also to a deeper appreciation for American history.
The Missoula, Montana-based ACA, with its focus on bicycle touring, and the Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania-based CMH, with its aim of promoting health and eliminating health disparities, seemed unlikely partners in such a project. Dr. Stephen B. Thomas, director of the Center for Minority Health, noted that the partnership required a huge leap of faith to join forces between the divergent interests and bring the concept to completion. Yet, unlikely as it seemed, the two cultures melded to bring the project to a successful conclusion, creating a combination of history and health promotion that makes the project compelling.
ROUTE
Heading North This route can be ridden from early spring in the south through September in the north, depending on the weather. Southern summers will be hot and humid. Both Alabama and Mississippi are occasionally in the path of tropical storms or hurricanes from June through November. Afternoon summer thunderstorms are typical and sometimes are accompanied by high winds and hail. While prevailing winds are generally light, Lake Erie's shore frequently develops a localized wind pattern that may extend inland for only a few miles. In southern Ontario, the climate is highly modified by the influence of the Great Lakes. Spring brings the beginning of the tornado season, and southern Ontario has the highest frequency of tornadoes in Canada. In summer, thunderstorms can produce heavy downpours, hail, damaging winds and occasional tornadoes.
The southern terminus of the route is in historic Mobile, Alabama, and follows several river courses northward. In the 1800s Mobile was a key port for ships to unload enslaved Africans. The Tensaw River, Alabama River, and Tombigbee River all flow into Mobile Bay, and were used as guides for freedom seekers to escape northward. Besides the lush green scenery and the many small towns this route passes through, a host of museums, historic parks, and visitor centers bring the region's history alive.
Historical road plaques are abundant, and riders can read about Indian massacres and the German prisoner-of-war camp in Aliceville, Alabama. One can camp at Historic Blakeley State Park where the last major battle of the Civil War was fought, occurring on the very day that General Robert E. Lee surrendered in far-off Virginia. There are churches to visit while pedaling past town squares of courthouses and Confederate memorials, tall loblolly pines and the brown waters of the slow-moving Tombigbee and Tennessee Rivers...it's like pedaling through a William Faulkner novel.
Just north of Fulton, Mississippi the route joins the Natchez Trace Parkway for 10 miles. The area of western Tennessee and Kentucky is rich in American Indian and Civil War history. This area also has many short roller coaster hills. The Shiloh National Military Park and the Fort Donelson National Battlefield are both along the route. Riders also follow "The Trace Road" through the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, an expanse of woods where bison roam. No commercial vehicles are allowed on this road, and a 45 m.p.h. speed limit is strictly enforced. Upon reaching the Ohio River, once known as the dividing line between the slave and free states, the route then heads northeast along the river.
The Borderland Riding close to the Ohio River in the tri-state Kentucky/Indiana/Ohio region, cyclists are in the Borderland, a narrow strip of land lining both sides of the river that saw some of the Underground Railroad’s most intense activity, and where a concentration of physical evidence remaining from those days still exists. The towns of New Albany, Lancaster and Madison in Indiana, and Augusta, Old Washington and Maysville in Kentucky all have buildings, churches, homes or sites to visit. Roads are generally narrow and winding with low traffic counts. The route alternates between following the river and heading inland.
At Maysville, Kentucky, the route cross the river into Ohio, and then flows downstream a few miles to Ripley, which comprises a fifty-five acre National Historic District. Among the numerous Underground Railroad conductors who were active in Ripley, John P. Parker and the Rev. John Rankin stand out. Parker, an iron worker and inventor, was a former slave who had purchased his freedom. As a conductor, he would often slip back into slave territory to help freedom seekers find their way from Kentucky to Ohio. Rankin, a Presbyterian minister, along with his l
arge family, provided shelter to hundreds of runaways in their home located high above town on Liberty Hill. Of an estimated 2,000 freedom seekers that passed through Ripley, most stayed with the Rankins. Their house could be identified at night from the river by the candle glowing in its window.
There is a 16-mile spur into downtown Cincinnati, Ohio. The city holds numerous sites relating directly to Blacks’ struggle for freedom, including the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center and the Harriet Beecher Stowe House. The new-in-2004 National Underground Railroad Freedom Center is the premier facility in the country highlighting the heroics and tragedies associated with the Underground Railroad. Exhibits include the hauntingly evocative Slave Pen, moved to the center from a farm in Mason County, Kentucky. It is a small log structure that was used to store as many as seventy-five slaves waiting to be shipped to and sold in the Deep South.
Ohio From Milford north to Xenia, the route follows a grade that beginning in the mid-1800s served an “overground” railroad. After the trains stopped running in the 1970s, the route was turned into a rail-trail for bicyclists and other non-motorized travelers. The trail parallels the Little Miami State and National Scenic River, creating the additional option of stashing the bike for a day and checking out the same scenery by canoe. Canoe rentals and shuttles are available at several area liveries. One of the longest paved rail-trails in America, the Little Miami Scenic Trail offers fifty miles of the most enjoyable cycling along the Underground Railroad Bicycle Route. The delightfully car-free trail winds amid an ever- changing rural landscape of rolling farmlands, picturesque towns, river cliffs, and hardwood forests. A host of warblers and other songbirds provide background music befitting the bucolic surroundings, and riders may also spot wildlife like whitetail deer, coyote, and beaver.
The rapidly growing community of Springboro is reached by taking the Springboro Spur from Waynesville. It’s a side trip you should not miss. Founded by anti-slavery Quaker Jonathan Wright in 1815, Springboro evolved into one of the most frequented stopovers for freedom seekers. It’s estimated that some 4,000 escaped slaves traveled through Springboro on their flights to freedom between 1815 and 1864. Today, the historic downtown district holds more documented Underground Railroad safe houses than any other community in the state, at least one of which can be overnight lodging: the 1815 home of town founder Wright, the oldest home in Springboro. Now known as the Wright House Bed & Breakfast, there visitors can view a hiding place built for runaway slaves that’ s squeezed between the second story and the attic, as well as inspect an impressive collection of antiques and artifacts from the period.
The majority of roads in Ohio are rural in nature and tend to be excellent for bike touring, with smooth, high quality blacktop. The route travels through many small towns where traffic will increase during commuting hours.
In Wilberforce, an unincorporated community just northeast of Xenia, is the National Afro- American Museum and Cultural Center. The museum’s mission is to inform and teach visitors about Black history and culture, beginning with the African origins and stretching to present times. One highlight is the museum’s small theater that regularly screens the award-winning Music As a Metaphor, a half-hour video tracking the origins and evolution of Black music from its African roots to the popular music of the 1950s.
The route skirts the state capital, Columbus, on the west and north sides, but riders should expect higher levels of traffic along this portion of the route. Continuing into and through northeast Ohio, some towns with important ties to the Underground Railroad include Oberlin, Hudson, and Ashtabula.
Oberlin is home to Oberlin College, among the first colleges in the United States to admit African-American students. Sites in town include the Westwood Cemetery, the final resting place for many abolitionists and freedom seekers; and the First Church of Oberlin, which served as the headquarters of the Oberlin Anti-Slavery Society. It was also here that memorial services were held for John Copeland and Shields Green, two men who were hung for their participation in abolitionist John Brown’s 1859 raid on the federal arsenal in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. Not far east of Oberlin is Hudson, Brown’s boyhood home. The early abolitionist movement ran strong in Hudson, which in 2000 became the first town in northern Ohio to receive a state Underground Railroad historical marker, commemorating the community’s involvement in the anti-slavery movement.
Ashtabula County occupies the extreme northeast corner of Ohio. Best known for its numerous wineries and beautiful covered bridges, the area held some three-dozen Underground Railroad safe houses. The route follows the Western Reserve Greenway, a “linear park” following the former right-of-way of the Penn Central Railroad. A dozen Underground Railroad interpretive markers line the twenty-seven miles of the greenway in Ashtabula County, identifying such sites as the Hubbard House, which is situated adjacent to Walnut Beach in the city of Ashtabula. The safe house was considered a northern terminus of the railroad, as escaped slaves would go from there by boat across Lake Erie to Canada. It’s now home to an Underground Railroad museum that includes a map showing the locations of all known Underground Railroad stations in the area.
Pennsylvania and New York From Ashtabula into Pennsylvania and New York, riders enjoy a long stretch of waterside riding along Lake Erie, the southern-most of the five Great Lakes. After turning back inland south of Buffalo, riders arrive at Orchard Park, home of the Pedaling History Bicycle Museum and one of the largest collections of antique and classic American bicycles to be found.
There’s a great deal of history to be explored in the Buffalo/Niagara area, ranging from that of American Revolution times to the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site. This region became a natural funnel for freedom seekers, due to its remoteness, its proximity to Canada, and the anti-slavery sentiment that ran strong throughout New York. Consequently, numerous safe houses were active on the U.S. side of the international border. Buffalo’s best-known Underground Railroad site, is the Michigan Avenue Baptist Church. In the 1850s, the church building served as an Underground Railroad safe house, where freedom seekers would hide in the basement waiting to be boated across the Niagara River to Canada by night.
Ontario After crossing into Canada, from Fort Erie to Niagara-on-the-Lake the route mainly uses the Niagara River Recreation Trail and short portions of the Niagara Parkway along the scenic Niagara River. The route near Niagara Falls is extremely busy in summer, with many international tourists visiting the area.
Numerous plaques memorializing people, structures, and events important to the Underground Railroad and other periods of black history are found on or close to the route as riders proceed north through the Niagara area. Examples include a plaque at the Queenston Heights Park in Queenston, commemorating Ontario’s first Coloured Corps; and one in St. Catharines honoring Underground Railroad conductor Harriet Tubman. Considered the “Moses of Her People,” Tubman lived in this community for nearly a decade.
Murphy Orchards, found at the end of the 31.5-mile Murphy Orchards Spur, which begins at the Lewiston-Queenston Bridge, is a partner in the National Park Service’s National Underground Railroad Network to Freedom Program. Enduring legend has it that Charles and Libby McClew, who established the farmstead here in 1850, served as Underground Railroad station masters. Among other things, visitors can view a ten-by-twelve-foot space beneath the barn thought to have served as a hiding place. The farm is open to the public, and Underground Railroad tours are offered.
Throughout Ontario the route traverses the Niagara Escarpment, resulting in climbs and descents. This provides a challenge for the fully loaded cyclist, especially when going off route for services or exploration.
Owen Sound, where the route ends, was known as the final terminal of the Underground Railroad. It’s where many former slaves found their hard-earned freedom, and many of them settled in the village originally called Sydenham. Every year since 1862 the community has held its Emancipation Picnic, which today celebrates two historic milestones of freedom: the British Emancipation Act of 1834, and the United States Emancipation Proclamation of 1863.