Asuncion is the capital city of Paraguay. Asunción, as all of Paraguay, is a very contrasting place. Some rank Asunción as the world's cheapest capital. Few people would be able to explain why it is so charming despite having few traditional tourist attractions like beaches, mountains, or skyscrapers. As soon as you arrive, you will experience the sort of magic that exists in this place.
Few people speak English here and without at least some basic Spanish it might be hard to get by. From Saturday afternoon and all Sunday most businesses are closed and the city centre can become quite deserted.
Asunción is one of the oldest cities in South America and the longest continually inhabited areas in the River Plate Basin; for this reason that it is known as "Mother of Cities". It was from here that the colonial expeditions departed to found other cities, including the second foundation of Buenos Aires and of other important cities such as Villarrica, Corrientes, Santa Fe and Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
The site of the city may have been first visited by Spanish conquistador Juan de Ayolas, on his way north, up the Paraguay River, looking for a passage to the mines of Alto Perú (present-day Bolivia). Later, Juan de Salazar y Espinosa and Gonzalo de Mendoza, relative of Pedro de Mendoza, were sent in search of Ayolas, but were unable to find him. On his way up and then down the river, de Salazar stopped briefly at a bay in the left bank to resupply his ships. He found the natives friendly, an decided to found a fort there, in August, 1537. As customary, he named it according to the religious feast of that day: for August 15, Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Our Lady of the Assumption), honoring the feast day of the Assumption. This fort became a city with the establishment of the Cabildo (civilian administration) on 16 September 1541.
PLACE TO VISIT
Asunción may not have much to see, but if you are willing to be your own tour guide, Asunción can be a good time.
Every July there is a trade fair with exhibition booths, food, music and liquor. This is a good way to learn about what goes on in the country, the exhibitors range from agricultural suppliers to liquor manufacturers. Keep an eye out for the many free samples of food, soap, drinks, etc.
National Congress One of the more impressive new buildings in the city. It was built in 2002 with $20 million from the Taiwanese government. Paraguay is one of the few countries that recognizes Taiwan as opposed to mainland China. Most striking is its mirrored facade, which reflects the nearby slums along the bank of the river. You can ask for a tour in English - and maybe get one.
The National Cathedral Across the broad and picturesque plaza with fountains, but it is frequently closed, especially at midday siesta.
The Municipal Museum is modest, but has some tidbits about the old tram line from the 1880s and other civic history. Nearby is the Visual Arts Museum with temporary exhibits from national artists.
The Fine Arts museum is fairly unimpressive.
The Panteón del los Heroes houses the tomb of the unknown soldier as well as plaques for the heroes of the Chaco war.
Backyard birds in the city are interesting. There is the Great Kiskadee, Saffron Finch and Hornero. Kiskadee is like a yellow blue jay-- aggressive and large. Saffron finch is similar to a yellow house finch, Hornero is much like American Robin without the red breast. It builds a unique nest about the size and shape of a football completely out of mud and resembles a Paraguayan oven or horno. Thus the name: "baker".
HOW TO REACH
By plane - From outside of South America, there are no nonstop flights to Asunción (Silvio Pettirossi International Airport). The best options are São Paulo or Buenos Aires (from where you could alternatively also take a direct bus to Asunción, 20h and 17h respectively) and change to one of the local carriers, e.g. TAM, Varig, GOL Airlines, Aerolineas Argentinas.
By train - There are no trains. The building once used as the train station is at Plaza Uruguaya.
By car - Driving a car yourself is not recommended since many streets are in disrepair and apart from the main roads many are unpaved. The traffic in the city can be quite chaotic and dangerous for unused drivers. However, it gets much better once outside of the city. The car rental companies can also provide drivers.
By bus - The bus terminal is about about 5 km from the historic center. So you better take a taxi or a bus to the centre. The street Fernando de La Mora in front of the terminal leads to the city centre. Some bus companies have offices on Plaza Urugaya in the city centre.
There are normally two type of services to the bigger cities: común and rápido. While the first are cheaper, they also stop in every small town or community along the way and hence take longer then the rapidos which run direct or with a few stops only. Rapidos are less frequent.
By boat - The port is at the riverside end of Montevideo just after Paraguayo Independiente.
Cacique II leaves Concepción to Asunción on Sundays between 6-7 am 22 hours, 55.000 Gs. Returns to Concepción on Wednesday morning. Bring warm clothes and your own food. A cheap meal might be bought on board but don't count on it.
There are also occasionally cargo boats doing the trip to Concepción and even further up the Rio Paraguay.
