Quebec City is the capital of the province of Quebec in Canada. Located at a commanding position on cliffs overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway, Quebec City's Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the only city in north America, north of Mexico with its original city walls. Quebec is a city with 700,000 people.
Quebec City is the capital city of the province of Quebec (though it is referred to as the National Capital in the province). Much of the business here is of the administrative and bureaucratic nature, which would normally make the city quite dull. Fortunately, the city has a remarkable history, as the fortress capital of New France since the 16th century. Although the town's day-to-day life leaves things a little yawn-y at times, the vibrant historical center makes for an incredible visit.
First settled by Europeans in 1608 in a "habitation" led by Samuel de Champlain, Quebec City is undergoing major construction and repairs in anticipation of its 400th birthday in 2008. Be warned that most hotels are already booked solid through the summer months of 2008, but it will be a celebration that is not to be missed. The generally accepted dates of Champlain's arrival in the city are July 3rd and 4th and will be marked with major celebrations with dignitaries from around the world.
Founded by the French to make a claim in the New World, the name Quebec originally referred to just the city. It is an aboriginal word for "where the river narrows" as the St. Lawrence River dramatically closes in just east of the city. It is situated on 200 foot high cliffs with stunning views of the surrounding Laurentian mountains and the St. Lawrence River. Under French rule (1608-1759), the major industries were the fur and lumber trades. The French lost the city and its colony of New France to the British in the Battle of the Plains of Abraham in 1759. Much of the French nobility returned to France which resulted in British ruling over the remaining French population. Fortunately, the rulers of the colony allowed the French to retain their language and religion leaving much of the culture intact. The 1840s saw an influx of Irish immigrants during the Potato Famine. Due to cholera and typhus outbreaks, ships were quarantined at Grosse Ile to the east of the city past l'Ile d'Orleans. The bodies of those who perished on the journey and while in quarantine are buried there. The city remained under British rule until 1867 when Lower Canada (Quebec) joined Upper Canada (Ontario), New Brunswick and Nova Scotia to form the Dominion of Canada.
PLACE TO VISIT
Quebec City's main sight is the Old Town, the upper part of which is surrounded by a stone wall built by both French and British armies. It is now a tourist district with many small boutiques and hundreds of historical and photographic points of interest. Some of the buildings are original structures, while others are built in the same style and architecture as former buildings.
Chateau Frontenac, Quebec City icon. Claimed to be the most photographed hotel in North America. Stay the night if you can (see Sleep) and pop in for a martini if you can't (see Drink).
Dufferin Terrace. Boardwalk situated alongside (east of) the Chateau Frontenac, and offers a grand view of the St. Lawrence river.
The Citadel, this fortification at the juncture of the Old City wall and Grand Allée holds a changing of the guard ceremony mornings at 10 am complete with funny fur hats, weather permitting.
Plains of Abraham Battlefield Park,(Outside the Old City walls) Site of the 1759 battle that saw the British conquer Quebec, now used for public events, sports, and leisure activities.
Observatoire de la Capitale, (Outside the Old City walls) One of the tallest buildings in Quebec, offering a panoramic view of the whole city. Admission is 5$.
Place-Royale, The spot where Samuel de Champlain landed in 1608 and founded the first French settlement in North America, now converted into a postcard-pretty public square. Do not miss the huge mural covering the entire side of a nearby building; the figure with a hat standing at the base of the 'street' is Champlain.
Musée de la Civilization, Museum devoted to the world's peoples, with a well-done if still somewhat dull permanent exhibit on the history of Quebec. Open Tue-Sun 10 AM-5 PM.$10.
Parc du Bois-de-Coulonge, Residence of past lieutenant-governors from 1870-1966 and spread over 24 hectares, this garden features heritage buildings, wooded areas and gardens.
WHAT TO DO
Horse-drawn carriages. A one-hour tour of the Old City.
Ferry to Lévis, Beautiful views of the Chateau Frontenac and the Lower Old Town, and the other side of the river. Quite cheap and only one ticket is required for round trip if you stay aboard. (However, don't tell that to the ticket agent; some will insist on charging you the round trip fare.)
AML Cruises, Offers short three-hour cruises on the St-Lawrence river leaving from the docks nearby the ferry. One of the cruises leaves as the sun is setting and comes back when the sun is down for a stunning view of Quebec city by night.
Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on Plains of Abraham, Treat yourself to nature in the city and ski free of charge in one of the most accessible, enchanting sites there is, as you enjoy a breathtaking view of the St.Laurence River.
Ice Hotel, One of only two ice hotels in the world, from January to early April the Ice Hotel is a must-see. $15 will get you full tour during the day, after 8pm access to the guest rooms is restricted to guests only. Each room is themed and decorated with exquisite ice sculptures. Rooms start at $299/night. Includes an ice bar where you can get a drink served in an ice glass. For the romantics, there is a wedding chapel complete with snow pews. The Ice Hotel is located thirty minutes west of Quebec at Station Touristique Duchesnay on Lac St-Joseph.
Winter Carnival, city-wide, first week of February, A truly spectacular event, the Winter Carnival is a hundred-year tradition in Quebec City. Each year, a giant ice palace is built in the Place Jacques-Cartier as the headquarters of the festivities, but there's activities all during the week. The International Ice Sculpture Competition sees teams from around the world build monumental sculptures.
Saint-Jean Baptiste Celebration. Every year, June 23rd. Without a doubt the biggest party of the year in the entire province. Join over 200,000 Québécois of all ages on Plaine d'Abraham while they celebrate Quebec's National Day throughout the night. Various Québécois musical performances, bonfire, fireworks, and a lot of drinking.
Festival d'été, Beginning to mid-July, a lot of cheap music shows (you buy a button for $30 and it gives you access to all the shows, for the 11 days of the festival) in and around the Old Town, with international and local artists (for example in 2004, The Nits, Wyclef Jean, Bérurier Noir).
Edwin-Bélanger Bandstand, A musical experience in the open. Jazz, blues, Worlbeat. June to August. Thursday to Sunday.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Jean Lesage International Airport in Ancienne-Lorette. About 20 minutes from downtown Quebec. It offers regular flights from cities such as Montreal, Toronto and New York, and also provides charters to remote areas of the province such as Kuujjuaq, Gaspé and Baie-Comeau.
Please note that there is no public transit or hotel shuttles to the airport. There is a bus RTC #78 to and from the airport once a day; but that is not very useful. The taxi fare from Old Quebec to the airport is a flat fee of $32.50.
By train - A passenger train station is found at the port of Quebec, 450 rue de la Gare du Palais. The Quebec VIA Rail station is a picturesque building, emulating the architectural style of the famed Chateau-Frontenac overlooking the station. The Quebec-Windsor corridor trains run regularly, with stopovers at Montreal and Toronto. Another train station is located in Ste-Foy, 3255 chemin de la Gare, near the Quebec and Pierre-Laporte bridges. However, public transit does not run there as often as the Quebec station and this station requires walking for a couple of minutes.
By bus - The bus station, Terminus Gare du Palais located at rue de la Gare du Palais, is also located at the old port of Quebec, next to the train station. Intercar and Orleans Express offer services province-wide. Another bus station is located in Ste-Foy, 3001 chemin des Quatre-Bourgeois, which is easily accessible by city transit.
By car - Quebec City is 2.5-3 hours by car from Montreal, on either Highway 40 or 20 (north and south side of the St. Lawrence, respectively). Both routes are rather monotonous drives through endless forest dotted with farms. For a slower but more interesting tour of Quebec's heartland, drive along the Chemin du Roy, which follows the north bank of the river, instead.
