The Adventure Cycling Association Lewis & Clark Trail Bicycle Route is divided into
multiple route segments/side routes. The route is a total of 3253 miles (5237 km). This
route was created to celebrate the anniversary of the Corps of Discovery's 1804-1806
historic journey and offers cyclists the opportunity to follow the path of the intrepid
explorers Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. It includes seven map sections
detailing the 1804-1805 westbound trip, roughly following the Missouri River and the
Columbia River, and one map section showing Clark's 1806 eastbound return along the
Yellowstone River.
The main route of the Lewis & Clark Bicycle Trail is made up of paved roads, bike paths,
and unpaved rail-trails, with occasional short sections of gravel roads. Conditions vary
from rural to urban.
Lewis and Clark's expedition traveled more often by boat via rivers than by land, and this
route follows the rivers as closely as possible. Occasional rough roads, narrow to
nonexistent shoulders, and sparse services make this a more challenging route.
Keeping this in mind, riders should equip themselves with a fat-tired touring bicycle. Also,
a water filter should be included in the packing list, as many of the campgrounds
available are primitive and do not have potable water sources. Using motels, requires
planning ahead and the readiness to ride some long days, perhaps as much as 100
miles. Distances between services in some areas can be substantial, so prior planning
of daily mileage is important.
Options and alternates offer the most variety ever found in an Adventure Cycling route. The eight map sections show 4,630 mapped miles (7,454 km). Traveling the most historically correct (main) westbound route over Lemhi Pass, the ride is 3,254 miles to reach the Pacific Ocean. In total, there are 174 miles of unpaved rail-trail and 214.3 miles of gravel, 13 of which are unavoidable if you stay on the route. Some options allow riders to avoid gravel sections or closer proximity to the Missouri River, whereas others offer historical side trips and rarely seen vistas, like the view from Lewis and Clark Pass.
Riders should plan on around two and a half months (give or take) for the most direct
routing. Some will traverse the route quicker, but this leaves less time for sightseeing.
This route can be ridden from May through September. Note that snow can occur at any
time in the Rocky Mountains, and the highest pass on the route is over 7,300 feet.
Although the prevailing weather patterns are from west to east, local wind patterns are
more dependent on the passing pressure systems and local terrain, so riders can expect
a fair share of tailwinds and headwinds, regardless of which direction the route is ridden.
ROUTE
Missouri, Kansas, Iowa, and Nebraska
The route begins at the impressive Lewis and Clark State Memorial Park visitor center
outside Hartford, Illinois. The center is near the mouth of the Wood River, on the opposite
side of the Mississippi River from where the Missouri River feeds into it. It was at the
mouth of the Wood where the members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition spent the
winter of late 1803 and early 1804, making final preparations for a spring departure up the
Missouri. After crossing the Mississippi River into Missouri, the route joins the Katy Trail.
With its smooth surface of crushed limestone, the Katy traverses the floodplain of the
Missouri, often running immediately beside the river and just above the water level.
Riders can shorten the distance on the Katy by crossing the Missouri and using the
Jefferson City Option. Much of the Missouri countryside that was wild frontier when Lewis
and Clark passed through has been transformed into densely settled urban and
suburban pockets. The Missouri River corridor can be considered a heavily used
recreational and industrial strip linking the St. Louis and Kansas City metropolitan areas.
Kansas's short contribution to the route, by comparison, is more rural, winding amidst
rolling grainfields. At Brownville, Nebraska, riders can choose between the Steamboat
Trace or the Hamburg Option. This 34-mile option is paved, with the exception of a
4.5-mile gravel stretch. Riding conditions in southeastern Nebraska and southwestern
Iowa range from rural to urban, the latter particularly around Omaha-Council Bluffs.
Between Council Bluffs, Iowa and Sioux City, Iowa, the riding tends to be either table-flat
or very hilly, depending on whether riders are in the Missouri River floodplain or in the
flanking Loess Hills. Roads around both of these Iowa cities can be very busy, so they
should be avoided during the morning and afternoon commuting hours. West of Yankton,
South Dakota, recreational vehicle traffic can be heavy, as it can be around any of the lake
or dam access areas (Fort Randall, Chamberlain, Fort Thompson etc.). Near Bonesteel
riders have the opportunity to ride closer to the river on the Whetstone Bay Option. This
option is 25.5 miles in length, with 14.5 miles on a hard-packed dirt and gravel road with
no services other than a campground. State Highway 1806 out of Fort Thompson carries
less traffic, while dishing up extreme climbs and dramatic vistas. The Missouri River
along this part of the Lewis and Clark Trail is less a river than a string of huge reservoirs,
peppered with isolated communities and seasonal services. This trend continues into
North Dakota and eastern Montana. From Fort Thompson, there are two ways into Pierre,
South Dakota, continuing on the main route or following the Lake Sharpe Option. This
61-mile option, on the north side of the Missouri River, goes through the Crow Creek
Indian Reservation.
North and South Dakota
North of Pierre, South Dakota the route traverses high, rolling bluff country that is typically
some distance away from the river corridor but which occasionally proffers amazing views
of the big body of water below. The route through the capital city of Bismarck, North
Dakota, has two options: one urban through the heart of the city where services are
located and the other on bike paths closer to the river. Riders probably find them selves
either praising or cursing the ever-present wind, depending on which way it is blowing in
relation to the way direction of travel. Plenty of river and lake access is offered via gravel
side roads along State Highway 1804 between Pierre and Williston, North Dakota.
Potentially heavy recreational and agricultural traffic on the road is countered by generally
good sight distances; services are few and far between, a situation also found in Montana.
Montana
Initially in Montana, especially if there are headwinds, the riding might be characterized as
"put your head down and grin and bear it" conditions. But after the route turns south at
Nashua and continues to Fort Peck, the riding and the scenery vastly improve. Riders
don't actually lay eyes on the Missouri River for some 300 miles, between Fort Peck and
Fort Benton. In compensation, riders will experience some the most spectacular
mountain-and-plains vistas in North America. From Fort Peck to the junction with State
Highway 200, the route goes through rolling badland hills. After turning west onto State
Highway 200, the wind will be a concern; it can affect bike steering and make it hard, or
even impossible, to hear cars approaching from the rear. A rear-view mirror, always a
good idea, is strongly suggested in windy areas such as these. From Lewistown to Fort
Benton, the route goes through the Montana of imagination, an idyllic scene that Charlie
Russell, "America's cowboy artist," couldn't have bettered.
South of Great Falls, Montana, the route gets into the canyons and mountains Montana is
known for. A dividend of the terrific mountain scenery is that a large share of the lands are
federally owned, so campgrounds become much more plentiful than they've been up to
this point. At Three Forks, where the Gallatin, Madison, and Jefferson rivers merge, the
route leaves the Missouri River behind for good. Three miles south of Dillon, riders will
again be faced with choosing between two options, both of which include crossing the
Continental Divide. Staying on Lewis and Clark's 1804 westbound route summits Lemhi
Pass, which includes 24.5 miles of gravel, while the 87-mile paved Big Hole Option
represents Clark's 1806 eastbound journey. The Big Hole Option passes the Big Hole
National Battlefield and Visitor Center that tells the tale of the Nez Perce and their flight to
freedom. This option follows Clark's 1806 eastbound route over Gibbon's Pass.
The Bitterroot Valley, in western Montana, has become heavily populated in recent years.
Traffic increases dramatically on the secondary roads that parallel U.S. Highway 93. At
Traveler's Rest - a.k.a. the town of Lolo - the route heads north into Missoula. Here riders
can find several bike shops and visit the headquarters of Adventure Cycling Association.
Although the site of Missoula was not encountered by Lewis and Clark during the
expedition's westbound travels, on the return trip east the nine-man contingent led by
Capt. Lewis passed the location of this future city.
Idaho, Washington, and Oregon
Leaving Montana, the route follows U.S. Highway 12 southwest from Lolo to Powell,
Idaho, and is roughly tracing the actual route of Lewis and Clark. The main route
continues west on its twisting way from Powell through the corridor of the Lochsa Wild
and Scenic River. The Lochsa joins forces with the Selway River at Lowell, where the two
transform into the Middle Fork of the Clearwater. Lewis and Clark didn't use this river
corridor and instead stayed on the mountain ridges to the north along an existing Indian
trail.
The 145.3-mile Lolo Trail Option climbs high up along ridgelines to access the rough
roller coaster of a dirt road known as the Lolo Trail. Due to the rugged, mountainous
terrain and scarcity of services and water, only fit, experienced mountain bikers should
attempt this option. Be aware that the Forest Service, anticipating heavy demand, began
limiting travel on it in 2003 during the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial, by way of a permit
system. Cyclists will need a permit. For details, call 208-476-4541 or on the Internet visit
http://www.fs.fed.us/r1/clearwater/LewisClark/LewisClark.htm.
At Kamiah (KAM-ee-eye), the recommended route leaves the Clearwater River and U.S.
Highway 12. Alternatively, the River Option continues along U.S. Highway 12 and follows
the Clearwater into Lewiston, staying true to Lewis and Clark's actual route. Riders have
to contend with a great deal of traffic on this option. The road is narrow, winding, and
largely lacking in shoulders. The main route, in contrast, hides a wonderful surprise of
low-traffic byways rolling past the forests and through the farmlands of the southern
reaches of the Nez Perce Indian Reservation. From the main westbound route, there are
two choices to cover the last 21 miles into Clarkston, Washington. The seven-mile
Lapwai Option parallels U.S. Highway 95 on smaller, lightly traveled roads. It connects
with the River Option at the Nez Perce National Historic Park. The 22.5-mile Hell's Gate
Option stays on smaller roads and heads down to Hell's Gate State Park on the Snake
River at the edge of Lewiston.
West of Clarkston, where the Snake River bends northwest, the trail leaves Lewis and
Clark's westbound route, and not join it again until it reaches the Columbia River near
Walla Walla, Washington. Much of the bicycle route between these two cities, however,
does follow the approximate overland route taken by the Corps in early May 1806. A windy,
and potentially very hot ride through the Columbia River Gorge and on to the coast will be
a study in contrasts: from stretches of traffic-clogged I-84 to a couple of closed-to-cars
sections of the historic Columbia River Highway, now a beautiful state trail, and from the
bustle of metropolitan Portland to small, serene communities that barely earn a dot on
the map. Via the Washington Option through the gorge, State Highway 14 has light traffic,
with occasional large trucks and few services. The highway has an intermittent shoulder.
A series of five tunnels have buttons to activate "Bikes in Tunnel" lights. This option
rejoins the main route in Portland.
U.S. Highway 30, unfortunately, is a busy way to end the trip, but there's a good reason all
of those motorists are heading west: to get out to that beautiful coastline. From Astoria,
two spurs delineate Lewis and Clark's further explorations. The 21.5-mile Seaside Spur
passes Fort Clatsop National Memorial, the Corps' 1805-1806 winter quarters, and
continues on to Seaside, where the Corps processed seawater into salt for their return
journey. The 20-mile Cape Disappointment Spur crosses the Columbia River into
Washington and heads west to Fort Canby State Park.
