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                      GORI TRAVEL GUIDE


Gori  is a city in the Shida Kartli region of Georgia. It is most famous (or infamous) for
being the birthplace of Joseph Vissarionovich Jughashvili, better known as Stalin. Today,
surprisingly, it does not look much different from when Stalin ruled the USSR. Gori is also
located a short drive from Uplistsikhe, an ancient Silk Road cave city and former regional
center of pagan worship.

Incidentally, the name Gori comes from the Russian word for mountain (???? gah-RAH)
and is actually unrelated to Stalin's legacy...

Gori is located 76 km west of Georgia’s capital Tbilisi, at the confluence of the rivers
Mtkvari and Greater Liakhvi, 588 m. above sea level. The climate is transitional from
moderately warm steppe to moderately humid. Summer is usually hot. The average
annual temperature is 10.9°C, minimal in January (-1.2°C) and maximal in August (22.5°
C). The maximum precipitation falls in May (76mm) and minimum in August (34mm) and
January (30mm).

The territory of Gori has been populated since the early Bronze Age. According to the
medieval Georgian chronicles, the town of Gori was founded by King David IV (r. 1089-
1125) who settled there the refugees from Armenia. However, the fortress of Gori
appears to have been in use already in the 7th century, and archaeological evidence
indicates to the existence of an urban community in the Classical Antiquity. In 1299-3,
Gori was captured by the Alan tribesmen fleeing the Mongol conquest of their original
homeland in the North Caucasus. The Georgian king George V recovered the town in
1320, pushing the Alans back over the Caucasus mountains.

With the downfall of the medieval Georgian kingdom, Gori – strategically located on the
crossroad of major transit routes – was frequently targeted by foreign invaders and
changed its masters on several occasions. It was first taken and sacked by Uzun Hassan
of the Ak Koyunlu in 1477, followed by Tahmasp I of Persia in the mid-16th century. By the
end of that century, Gori passed to the Ottomans and became their major outpost in
Georgia until being recovered by the Georgians under Simon I of Kartli after heavy fighting
in 1599. The town was once again garrisoned by the Persians under Shah Abbas I in
1614.

Following the successive occupations by the Ottomans (1723-35) and Persians (1735-
40s), Gori returned to the Georgian control under the kings Teimuraz II and Erekle II
whose efforts helped advance economy and culture in the town. Following the Russian
annexation of Georgia, Gori was granted the status of a town within the Tiflis Governorate
in 1801. It grew in size and population throughout the 19th century, but was destroyed in
the 1920 earthquake. An important industrial center during the Soviet Union, Gori suffered
from an economic collapse and the outflow of population during the years of a post-Soviet
crisis of the 1990s.

Gori is located in the proximity to the Georgian-Ossetian conflict zone. It is connected to
breakaway South Ossetia’s capital Tskhinvali via a railroad spur which has been defunct
since the early 1990s


                          PLACE TO  VISIT


The Stalin Cult - Giant statue of Stalin in front of Gori's city hall Famous "Profile"
rock that looks like a face at Uplistsikhe Church built over ruined pagan temple of the Sun
God, UplistsikheUnlike the majority of Georgia, Gori is full of people who still revere their
home-town boy who made such an indelible mark on human history. The principal
attractions (as well as the principal revenue earners) within the city are monuments to
Stalin and they are all located on or nearby the main square along Stalin Ave.

The Stalin Museum - is the highlight of a visit to the city of Gori. Behind its faux-
Venetian facade is an impressive museum filled with paraphernalia and media
documenting the life and careers of I.V. Jughashvili. The museum's portrayal of Stalin is
one-sidedly nostalgic, which can be jarring for visitors, but the exhibits are actually quite
well done and there are ample Georgian babushkas throughout the museum who will be
more than happy to elaborate on the exhibits and answer questions. Unfortunately, the
exhibits are overwhelmingly in Russian and Georgian, to the disadvantage of most
Western visitors. But the main show requires no language—Stalin's death mask. Stalin's
bronze death mask is not so exciting in and of itself, but the lighting and bizarre,
personality cult-chic, red velvet display will surely elicit goose bumps. At the ticket office,
ask about an English or German-speaking guide. They are sometimes available and will
often show you the inside of Stalin's home and train car

Stalin's Birthplace - If we are to believe the plaque, Stalin's birth house now
resides within a cage of neoclassical Doric columns. There is not much here for the
visitor other than a creepy photo opportunity and the plaque which reads in both Russian
and Georgian

Stalin's Statue - Few of the many statues of Stalin throughout the former USSR
have survived to this day and Gori's is certainly one of the most magnificent and well-kept.
This large statue stands in front of Gori's city hall, located up Stalin Ave. from the end of
the main square, opposite the Stalin Museum. There are two other Stalin statues in Gori:
a replica of the main statue is in Stalin Park and the second—of Stalin as a young man—
can be found beside Gori State University.

Uplistsikhe - Uplistsikhe  is easily one of the oldest existing cities in Georgia,
although it is now uninhabited save tourists. Founded in the sixteenth century BC and
carved out of rock, this was a bustling city over 3000 years ago and was, before the
introduction of Christianity in the fourth century, a major regional center of Caucasian
pagan worship. After Saint Nino converted King Mirian II of Iberia, the pagan temples of
Uplistsikhe were sacked and the city went into long-term decline. Its decline was
hastened by devastation at the hands of the Mongols in the 12th century, although it
remained inhabited, serving as a stop along the Silk Road until the 15th century.

Highlights not to be missed include: a Hellenistic amphitheater overlooking the Mtkvari
river where residents of Uplistsikhe once enjoyed Greek-style performances, a
functioning 9th century church built atop the ruins of an ancient pagan temple to the
Caucasian sun god, a once pillared seat of kings, and a fun cave tunnel leading out of the
city to the riverside. Also be sure to note the round storage spaces once used for wheat
and the shelf-like spaces for medicinal herbs—a veritable bronze age pharmacy!

Uplistsikhe is of considerable historical interest and is properly enjoyed with a guide.
Chances are good that your guide will find you before you ask (there is not much
alternative employment in this area) and there is a good chance of finding an English-
speaking guide on site.

Uplistsikhe suffered long years of neglect and vandalism and is currently undergoing
significant restoration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Accordingly, certain areas may
be closed off from direct contact during your visit, although all sites will still be viewable.

Goris Tsikhe (Gori Castle) - Goris Tsikhe stands at the heart of the city atop a
large hill and is the only structure in town that can dwarf the Stalin statue. According to
locals, Goris Tsikhe's most notable moment in world history occurred in the first century
BC, when it was conquered by the Roman General Pompeii. The current ruins are more
recent, however, having been built after the Mongol invasion. There is not much to see
inside the ruined castle's walls, but there are nice views of the city and the surrounding
dark green plains of Shida Kartli. The approach to the ruins was recently repaved and the
surrounding area cleaned up, but the site remains free and the only price of admission is
the short, steep walk up the path.

Gori Jvari (Gori Cross) - A view of Gori Jvari from nearby mountain ridgeThe
church at Gori Jvari stands on a outcropping of rocks and can be seen from practically
anywhere in Gori. Originally built in the 12th century, it was burned down by the Turks,
rebuilt, and destroyed again by an earthquake in 1920. The current church was built in the
1980s. On days commemorating St. George (November 23 and April 23), Gori residents
flock to the church with sacrificial sheep. The sheep are walked around the church three
times, and in accordance with Orthodox tradition, are taken just off the church grounds for
slaughter. On a clear day, the view of the Caucasus from the church is spectacular.

The moderate hike is approximately three hours round trip. To reach the trail head, walk
south along Stalin Avenue until you cross the river. The road will cut to the right and then
cross the railroad tracks. On the other side of the tracks, look for Ateni Road  this road
winds up the hillside and eventually becomes the dirt trail. There are more hiking options
along the mountain ridge above Gori Jvari and there a number of ruined churches
scattered through the area.

Stalin Park - along the river south of Chavchavadze St. The park has a few aging
rides, a Ferris wheel, and a paint ball range. On summer evenings, it is often crowded
with people and a good place for people watching.


                         HOW TO REACH

Many marshrutkas run daily between Tbilisi's Didube market and the central square of
Gori. A more expensive, yet still reasonable option, is to hire a taxi.