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    EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK - NEPAL


Everest Base Camp Trek is a famous challenging trek in Khumbu, Nepal.  Famous
for its spectacular mountain peaks and the loyalty and friendliness of its inhabitants
(the Sherpas), the Everest region (Khumbu) is one of the most popular destinations
for tourists in Nepal. While many of the routes through the mountains are arduous,
there are ample places to rest and enjoy a meal along the way. Furthermore, don't
worry about getting lost. Just ask a local the way to the next village on your route, and
they will direct you. Most Sherpas under the age of fifty can at least understand basic
English, and many speak it fluently.

While trekking is possible in this area the whole year round, the best times to visit
are from the beginning of March to mid May and from the beginning of September to
mid November. The winters are very cold and snow may make it difficult to travel
higher than Tengboche, and also lodges may be closed above this altitude.
Summers, on the other hand, are wet, and the spectacular peaks often lost in the
clouds. April and early May is a good time to see the hedgerows and trees bursting
into bloom, with Rhododendrons, in particular, adding a spectacular splash of color
to the landscape. However, dust from the plains of India during the spring routinely
provide less than ideal conditions for clear mountain views. The views are much
better after the summer monsoons have cleared the atmosphere of dust, but the
days are shorter and cooler.

Khumbu is one of the few areas in Nepal still unscathed by the Maoist insurgence
and is considered a safe region for tourists.

Update 10 November 2007: Maoists were requiring 100 rupees to pass the town of
Ghat along the trail. Larger groups passed through without paying, however smaller
groups (2-4 people) were stopped. You might try ignoring their requests or
pretending not to understand and keep moving to avoid paying the fee. Lodge
owners indicated that this was the only Maoist checkpoint at this time.

Trekking permits are not required for the Khumbu region.

Lodges and restaurants in Khumbu only accept Nepalese rupees. Budget between
600-800rs per person per day for food and accommodation - prices rise with the
altitude, though you may spend more in Namche because there is more on offer.


                        TREKKING


Khumbu is an area for trekking. The trek can be as short as a two day walk from
Lukla to Namche Bazaar or an eight to ten day trip to Everest Base Camp.
Irrespective of the length of the journey, as there are no roads in the area, it will
definitely involve putting on hiking boots and walking the mountain paths. Below is
an itinerary from Lukla Airport to Everest Base Camp and all points in between.

DAY ONE - Lukla airport (about US$90 from KTM) to Monju (2800m): Pass directly
through the village of Lukla (there is no compelling reason to stop here, though it is a
good place to have breakfast/lunch.) and follow the path to Namche. There will no
doubt be a string of porters carrying goods up to the Sherpa capital, so the route is
easy to locate. The first village after Lukla is Chablung, and further down the trail, you
will pass through Ghat and Phakding. Both these villages have a good selection of
lodges and restaurants and are conveniently located for taking a meal break.
However, if you still have enough stamina, it is advisable to press on to Monju (about
90 minutes to two hours from Phakding) to spend the night as this will give you a
good start for the steep ascent to Namche the following morning.

DAY TWO - Monju to Namche: After passing through the Sagamartha Park entrance
(1,000rs for overseas visitors), the trail passes through the village of Jorsale and
then along the river. You will cross two bridges before beginning the steep ascent to
Namche, which can take up to three hours to complete. Be aware that there are no
tea houses or lodges on this path, so ensure that you have ample water to get you to
the top. In addition, you are now heading into a high altitude area, so take it easy.
Even the fittest people are prone to altitude sickness.

DAYS THREE & FOUR - Namche Bazaar (3440m): It is recommended to take an
altitude acclimatization rest day in Namche. Although no more than a village, the
Sherpa capital has two museums, several internet cafes, and, at last count, two
pizza houses and three cafes (locally known as bakeries), so there is much to keep
you occupied during your stay here. Namche also has two official money changers,
so it is a good place to stock up on local currency for the days ahead (NB: Lodges
and restaurants in Khumbu only accept Nepali Rupees). There is also a reasonable
selection of English books, though the prices are higher than in Kathmandu.

During your acclimatization rest day, you might like to visit neighboring villages.
Khumjung (3790m) is over the hill directly behind Namche, and takes about one and
a half to two hours to reach. There are several sights in the village (See listings
below) and a few lodges and eateries. Khunde is a short walk from Khumjung.
Getting there: Take the Tengboche trail, then at the top of the hill above Namche,
near the huge mani stone and just past the bank, head straight up the mountain -
the wider path to the right goes to Tengboche. After a steep climb, you will arrive at
an airstrip. Cross this and rejoin the path at the other side. After a short distance
you'll pass a stupa. From there, take the paved path down the hill. Soon you will see
the playground and school buildings of Khumjung Hillary School. Thame (3750m) is
a more traditional village that is about a two and a half hour to three hour walk from
Namche. Getting there: Leave Namche on the path that passes the ochre colored
Namche Monastery (Namche Gompa). From here, it is a relatively flat walk that takes
in some very pleasant scenery. The first hamlet on the route is 'Phurte,' identified by
the forest nursery, and then 'Tesho.' The water that runs through 'Tesho' comes
directly from 'Mount Khumbuila' - the most sacred mountain to the Sherpas - so there
are several retreat huts built into the niches here. 'Thamo' is the next village on the
trail, and a good place to take lunch. 'Thame' has a few lodges and is home to one of
Khumbu's oldest monasteries. This trail is also the traditional route to Tibet, so don't
be surprised to encounter caravans of yaks led by long-haired Tibetan merchants on
your walk.

DAY FIVE - Namche to Tengboche (3870m/12696ft): After a short but steep climb out
of the village, the path levels off and you can enjoy a few hours of pleasant flat hiking.
The first lodges you will pass are at Kyangjuma. Consider taking a break here. The
Ama Dablam Lodge has some good food and the sitting area out front offers
uninhibited views of Mount Ama Dablam. In addition, the lodge reputedly has the
best selection of jewelry for sale in the whole of Khumbu, so if you don't plan to
return this way, pick out a few light souvenirs - They will forever remind you of this
sun-blessed place and the sparkling snow capped peak of Ama Dablam. After a
short while, the trail descends to river level, and you will pass a few hamlets and
cross some bridges. Then at the hamlet of Phunki Thanga (marked by its water
driven prayer wheels), the trail ascends steeply. There are no tea houses or lodges
on this stretch, so take some refreshment here and stock up on water for the one
and a half to two hour climb to Tengboche. NB: Take it easy going up here. The air
maybe thinner than you are aware!

DAY SIX: For those heading for Everest, the trail passes through the villages of
Devuche (here, there is a small nunnery on the left - definitely worth a visit),
Pangboche (3860m/12664ft), Dingboche and finally Periche (4240m/13910ft). All
these villages offer food and lodgings. Pangboche (especially Upper-Pamgboche,
where the local monastery is located) is, however, probably the the most pleasant as
it is surrounded by trees. So, if you decide to take the journey slowly, this is the best
place to rest and relax. For those heading for Island Peak and/or the Lhotse Glacier,
your final destination will be Chuukung. As this is further than Periche, you will
definitely need to stop the night in Pangboche or Dingboche.

DAY SEVEN: Whether in Periche or Chuukung, you will need to take a day to
acclimatize to the high altitude. Take short, slow walks around the village, marvel at
the peaks and dig out the book you bought in Namche, but whatever you do, don't
push it at this point. If you begin to feel unwell, inform your guide or lodge owner and
return as quickly as possible to a lower altitude.

DAYS EIGHT, NINE & TEN - Periche to Lobuche (4930m/16174ft): Spend night in this
small village. Lobuche to Gorak Shep (5160m/16929ft): Gorak Shep has a small,
usually frozen lake, but little in the way of accommodation (especially during the cold
winter months). Therefore, you might want to get an early start, pass through Gorak
Shep, visit Everest Base Camp(5380m/17650ft) and Kala Pattar (5643m/18513ft
where locations near the peak offer uninhibited views of Everest) and return to
Lobuche to sleep.

SIDE TRIP: The trail to Cho La (5420m) offers some stunning scenery and is not as
crowded as that to Everest. However, the trek can be tough, and one will need to
have advanced information regarding the conditions before proceeding from
Dzongla. An experienced guide would be of great help on this trek. Getting there:
After Pheriche, the trail turns off the main Everest route at Phlang Karpo and passes
through the villages of Tsholo Og and Dzongla.


                      HOW TO REACH


Fly to Lukla Airport from Kathmandu. Sita Airways are generally considered the most
reliable company plying the route. Sita operates two flights every morning from
Kathmandu Domestic Airport to Lukla at 7AM and 8:20AM. The flight takes around 25
minutes. During the summer rainy season, there may be substantial delays of
flights, even a wait of one week is not unheard of. For the return journey, the flights
leave Lukla at 7:40AM and 9AM.

Just after the village of Monju, there is check point for entering the Sagarmatha
National Park. You will need to show your passport and pay a 1,000rs entry fee.