Kamnik is a city in Slovenia. Once a rival to Ljubljana and Kranj for economic dominance of Carniola, today's Kamnik (Stein in German) is a sleepy suburb of Ljubljana, with a population of just over 10,000. While there is some modern sprawl to the south, the medieval Old Town (Staro mesto) has been wonderfully preserved and makes this town well worth a visit.
Orienting yourself in Kamnik is easy enough. Most medieval buildings line the pedestrian street of Šutna, and its northern end lie Mali grad and the city square of Glavni trg. To the east runs the Kamniška Bistrica river and across it are the ruins of the Old Castle.
The name Kamnik was first mentioned in the 11th century. The first time it was mentioned as a town was in 1229, when it was an important trading post on the road between Ljubljana and Celje. This makes the town one of the oldest in Slovenia. In the Middle Ages, Kamnik had its own mint and some aristocratic families among its residents. The town was among the most influential centers of power for the Bavarian counts of Andechs in the region of Carniola at the time. The only remnant of the Bavarian nobility are the two ruined castles which are both strategically built on high ground near the town center. The Franciscan monastery built in the town itself is a testament to its importance. The building is well preserved and has undergone extensive renovation in recent years. Zaprice Castle, which stands outside the town, was built in a later period.
Most of the old town center is built in an Austro-Hungarian style. Most of the facades have been renovated in recent years but the process is still ongoing.
PLACE TO VISIT
Mali grad. The "Small Castle" may lie in ruins, but the chapel next to it is still in one piece and, with its shapely curves and hilltop location, has become Kamnik's symbol. Entry into the chapel, featuring some 16th-century frescoes, costs 300 SIT, but views from the hill over the red roofs of the town are free.
Stari grad, (30 min hike from trailhead off Maistrova ul). Literally the "Old Castle", this 13th-century structure now lies in ruins. Half the fun is the hike up the hill, through a forest and a meadow; keep an eye out for miniature cascade of water through pinwheels halfway up. Up top, you'll be rewarded with commanding views over the plains north to the Alps and south all the way to Ljubljana.
Medobčinski muzej Kamnik, (on the Zaprice Hill in the center), Kamnik's museum with permanent and occasional exhibitions.
Volčji potok, (4 km south of Kamnik),Kamnik's best-known sight is this arboretum specializing in flowers from the Kamnik Alps (the mountains between Austria and Slovenia)
WHAT TO DO
The Kamfest arts festival is held every year over several weeks in August at the grounds of the Mali grad, with concerts and arts performances.
Terme Snovik, Slovenia's newest spa complex (opened 2001), 9 km out of town. Indoor and outdoor pools, water slides, dry and steam sauna, frigidarium (-5°), etc. Accessible on two buses a day on weekdays, but only one on Sat and none on Sun. €10 for all day pass, additional €5 for sauna
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Kamnik is just 15 km away from Ljubljana's Brnik Airport. A taxi costs around €25.
By train - SŽ has hourly commuter services from Ljubljana, taking about 40 minutes. There are three stations in Kamnik, with Kamnik-Mesto the closest to the Old Town. Note that there are no services on weekends or holidays.
By bus - Kam-Bus runs frequent services from Ljubljana (€3) and some limited direct services to other points nearby. The bus station is very centrally located at the edge of the old town, and there's a map to orient yourself as you exit. On weekdays, buses leave every 15-30 minutes from 5 AM until 11 PM and take just under an hour. On weekends, services are reduced to once per hour.
