The Hague is located in the province of South Holland in the Netherlands. It is the seat of the Dutch government, and the residence of the Queen, although Amsterdam is officially the capital city. The municipality has about 470,000 inhabitants, the urban area about 650,000. The Hague also includes Scheveningen beach, the most popular beach of the Netherlands, as well as Kijkduin.
Internationally, The Hague is probably best known as a place where many international courts are located. Among these are the International Court of Justice, which settles disputes between countries, the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia and since 2004 the controversial International Criminal Court. Thanks to these institutions, but also because of numerous European institutions, multinational headquarters (Shell) and embassies, The Hague has a distinct international character, one that is noticeably different from Amsterdam's. Rather than having many foreign tourists and fortune-seekers attracted by a reputation for excitement and liberalism, The Hague has more expatriates coming in because of employment at these institutions. Its foreign residents are thus generally better-paid and relatively older than Amsterdam's. Because of this and because of the fact that large part of the local economy is based the presence of countless government institutions, The Hague has a reputation as a wealthy, conservative and somewhat sedate city.
Indeed The Hague has none of the edginess and excitement of Amsterdam. As a city it provides well for its inhabitants, however, with large areas of green, 11 km of coastline, attractive shopping streets and an extensive cultural life. Rather than having canals like other Dutch cities, The Hague has streets and avenues which are just a little bit wider than those in the rest of the country, and instead of the typical Dutch renaissance 17th century step-gabled houses, it has 18th century mansions in grand baroque and classicist styles. Indeed, the city is considered by many as the most stately of the country. Other than in the city center, this is especially noticeable in the posh 19th century neighborhoods in between the city center and the dunes, with their splendid eclectic and art nouveau architecture.
As one goes away from the sea, however, the neighborhoods tend to become less well-off. The dividing line between good and bad areas is drawn by some at Laan van Meerdervoort, which runs parallel to the seaside. While this may not be entirely accurate, the city is quite unique in having such a clear geographical divide between rich and poor areas. The areas away from the sea have much less in the way of greenery. The one centrally located park in the poorer area, Zuiderpark, also used to contain the stadium of the local football team ADO Den Haag. Its supporters were among the most notorious hooligans of the country, the local low-class ADO fan or 'Haagse Harry' is as much a Hague stereotype as the posh old lady or the stuffy civil servant.
To tourists, The Hague offers great architecture, some of it picturesque, such as the medieval government complex of the Binnenhof, some grand and stately, like the mansions on Lange Voorhout. The museums in the city rank among the best in the country, and to food aficionados The Hague arguably offers the country's best Indonesian cuisine, due to large-scale immigration from this former Dutch colony. The city also offers good opportunities for outings, such as extensive green areas for walking and biclycling, the dunes and seaside which are just a few tram stops aways, and the quaint Dutch cities of Delft and Leiden which are just 15 minutes by train. In addition, The Hague offers a few attractions especially appealing to children, such as the miniature city of Madurodam and the 360 degree Omniversum cinema.
PLACE TO VISIT
Plein. Walking south into town from Central, along Herengracht and Korte Poten, you will come across the Plein. This square — its name simply translates as 'square' in English — is one of the most elegant in the center of town. Located right next to the Binnenhof, if is lined with historic government buildings on three of its four sides. The north side is lined with bars and cafés, which spill out onto the square in summer. These pavement cafés are quite popular with politicians from the neighboring Binnenhof, and indeed the Prime Minister himself (easily recognisable by his resemblance to Harry Potter) can be spotted here with a pint regularly. The square is also the preferred place for many demonstrations against government policies. The statue in the middle is that of William of Orange, heralded as the founding father of the Dutch nation.
Binnenhof, Since the 13th century the Binnenhof ('Inner Court') has subsequently been the seat of the government of the county of Holland, the Dutch Republic and the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It used to be a castle, surrounded by moats on all sides. Since then it has been modified countless times to accommodate the expanding Dutch government. The moats have been filled, but the castle still borders on the Court Pond (named Hofvijver): in its waters the old buildings continue to mirror themselves. Today, the Binnenhof houses the two chambers of the Dutch parliament and the Prime Minister's office, in a small round tower opposite the Mauritshuis. Enter through one of the gates on Plein or Buitenhof and you will find yourself in a medieval enclosed courtyard, surrounded by architecture from the 13th up to the 19th century. There may be crowds here sometimes, because of demonstrations, TV shootings or receptions of foreign officials. In the middle stands the Knight's Hall, the original centerpiece of the castle, now used for ceremonial purposes. The Knight's Hall is accessible in guided tours. Unfortunately, the other splendid rooms of the complex are closed to the general public. It is possible to attend the meetings of the parliament, however. The Tweede Kamer (second chamber) of parliament meets daily and has a new gathering room since 1992. The Eerste Kamer (first chamber) meets monthly, and does so in one of the most splendid Dutch 17th century interiors that the country has to offer. If you can get into a meeting do so, especially for the lavishly painted ceiling.
Mauritshuis, Housed in a 17th century palace overlooking the water of the Court Pond, the Royal Picture Gallery Mauritshuis contains the former collection of last Dutch stadtholder William V. The museum is quite small, although a complete tour still takes at least an hour, but the average quality of its old Dutch masters is excellent. It contains world famous works by Johannes Vermeer (Girl with the pearl earring,View of Delft), Rembrandt (The anatomy lesson of dr. Nicolaes Tulp), Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Jan Steen, Paulus Potter, Hans Holbein and others. Korte Vijverberg 8, next to the Binnenhof. Open Tue-Sat 10-17, Sun 11-17, also Mon 10-17 from Apr-Aug. Entrance 7.50 euro, free under 18.
Bredius Museum A private collection of Dutch Baroque art.
Museum de Gevangenpoort, De Gevangenpoort (Prison gate) was built in 1370 as an entrance gate to the Binnenhof complex; from 1420 it was also used a prison, and has been used as a such up to early in the 19th century. In 1853 it was converted into a museum. For a taste of medieval justice, have a look at this museum's collection of torture instruments and enter its original medieval cell blocks. Buitenhof 33. Open Tue-Fri 10-17, Sat-Sun 12-17. Entrance 4.00 euro.
Lange Voorhout. From either gate of the Binnenhof walk west, pass the short side of the Hofvijver, and you will reach Lange Voorhout. This former extension of the Hague Forest is now a large tree-lined square, bordered on all sides by the grandest 18th century townhouses the city has to offer. Note especially the grand baroque 'Huis Huguetan' on the long west side, home to the Dutch supreme court. The square is especially pretty in spring, when its crocuses are in bloom. On thursdays and sundays there is a very good antique and book market. In summer, the square hosts Den Haag Sculptuur , a yearly free outside sculpture exhibition. The tenth edition , in 2007, celebrated the 400 years of relations between the Netherlands and Australia. Ignore the fortified monstrosity that is the U.S. embassy on the corner.
Escher in het Paleis, . This former royal townhouse was recently converted into a museum dedicated to the famous Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher. The first three floors display prints, sketches and archive material showing how Escher progressed from realistic pictures to his later optical illusion and geometrical patterns. The top floor offers a trip through Escher's worlds through 3d graphic headsets. Lange Voorhout 74. Open Tue-Sun 11-17. Entrance 7.50 euro.
Denneweg. From Escher in het Paleis on Lange Voorhout, past the huge and posh Des Indes hotel, the short Vos in Tuinstraat leads westwards up to Denneweg. This street is a good area for antique and specialty shops. It also has some good pubs and restaurants, although expensive, with upper-class atmosphere to match. Parallel to the Denneweg run Hooigracht and Smidswater, two of the few quaint canals in the city, with which other Dutch towns and cities are so well endowned.
Paleis Noordeinde, This royal palace is currently the one Queen Beatrix uses as her office. It is not open to the public, but the grand 17th century façade can be admired from the Noordeinde street. Noordeinde itself has a large number of art galleries. There are gardens on the other side of the palace that are available for a stroll. Access through Prinsessewal.
Panorama Mesdag, . The Panorama Mesdag is a cylindrical painting from 1881, more than 14 meters high and 120 meters in circumference. The vista of the sea, the dunes and Scheveningen village was painted by one of the most famous painters of the Hague School, Hendrik Willem Mesdag. It is the oldest 19th century panorama in the world in its original site. Zeestraat 65. Mon-Fri 10-17, Sat-Sun 12-17. Entrance 4.00 euro.
De Verdieping van Nederland, Free exhibition showcasing the history of the country through original copies of its historically most significant documents. It has the original copy of peace treaty of Münster with Spain, marking the end of the 80-year Dutch independence war in 1648, and the original sales act of the Dutch purchase of Manhattan from the Indians. In the buildings of the Nationaal Archief and the Koninklijke Bibliotheek (Royal Library), right next to platform 12 on the north side of Central. Open Wed-Sat 9-17, Tue 9-20, Sun and Mon 12-17. Entrance free.
Oude Stadhuis. The orignal old town hall is nice but rather small building from the 15th century; at the time The Hague itself was a small town, more a settlement around the Court. It was extended in the 18th century. This part has a grand facade facing the 15th century Grote Kerk (Big Church), originally the city's main place of worship, but now in use for events and occasional exhibitions. Dagelijkse Groenmarkt. Not open to the public.
Stadhuis. Early in the nineties the municipality moved to this enormous white building by American architect Richard Meier, nicknamed by locals as the Ice Palace. Walk in to have a look at the lofty main hall (atrium), which has exhibits on various topics related to the city. The two air bridges through the hall connecting the various offices had to be fenced off to prevent suicides but still make for a nice view of the atrium below. The city hall borders a large, somewhat barren modern square with a bassin-less fountain. It contrasts sharply with the Baroque Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), located in a small park in the other side of the road. Spui 70. Entrance free.
Haags Gemeentemuseum, The Gemeentemuseum (Municipal Museum) has a small collection of classical modern art (some Van Gogh, Kandinsky, Monet, Sisley, Degas, Bacon). It boasts an especially large collection of Mondrians, showcasing the entire career of this painter known for his works with red, blue and yellow shapes. The Gemeentemuseum also has a large selection of paintings of the Hague School, a 19th century movement of landscape artists, in addition to period rooms and collections of fashion, musical instruments and decorative arts. The rotating exhibitions on 19th and early 20th century art held here are usually quite popular with the general public. The museum is housed in a 1938 yellow brick building by Dutch architect Hendrik Berlage, a pioneer in modern architecture, best-known for his Beurs van Berlage, the exchange building on the Damrak in Amsterdam. Next to the Gemeentemuseum are the GEM, with rotating exhibitions of contemporary art, and the Fotomuseum Den Haag, which has rotating photography exhibitions. Stadhouderslaan 41. Tue-Sun 11-17. Entrance E. 8,00, E. 5,00 concessions. From Central take tram 17 to Statenkwartier or bus 24 to Kijkduin; from Hollands Spoor take tram 17.
Museon, Interactive popular-science museum, very popular with school groups. Stadhouderslaan 37, next to the Gemeentemuseum. Open Tue-Sun 11-17. Entrance 7.50 euro, discounts for children.
Omniversum, . Cinema with a round screen, offering a 360 degree viewing experience. Runs IMAX/Discovery-style documentaries; some are aimed at children. President Kennedylaan 5, behind the Museon. Tickets 9.00 euro, 7.50 euro for children. Combined tickets with the Museon are available at a discount.
Vredespaleis, The Peace Palace was built in 1913, to house the Permanent Court of Arbitration, which was hoped to provide a means to legally settle international disputes. Ironically, World War I broke out just a year later. Today the Peace Palace also houses the International Court of Justice, the principal judicial body of the UN, which settles disputes between countries only.
Madurodam,. This miniature city contains a selection of Dutch architecture, ranging from Amsterdam's canals and church spires from Utrecht and Den Bosch, to modern architecture from Rotterdam and the enormous Delta works that protect the country from the sea. Madurodam also has an airport, a seaport, beaches, and little cars and trains running through the entire town. This is a great attraction for kids (and those young at heart). George Maduroplein 1. Open daily 9-18, later in summer. Entrance 12.50 euro, 9.00 euro for children. Take tram 9 or bus 22 to Scheveningen Noorderstrand (from Central) or tram 9 (from Hollands Spoor).
Paleis Huis ten Bosch, The home palace of Queen Beatrix, Huis ten Bosch, is in the middle of the greenery of the Haagse Bos. (The Hague Forest). The palace is not open to visitors.
HOW TO REACH
By Air - Although The Hague has its own airport, there are no commercial flights connecting there. Schiphol Airport is only 40 minutes away by train, though, and Rotterdam Airport is only 25 minutes by car.
By Train - The Hague has six train stations. Two of them cater to InterCity trains.
Den Haag CS is in the process of being renovated, and is the biggest train station of The Hague. It is located at walking distance from the city centre and from Malieveld. It has connections to Amsterdam (45'), Schiphol Airport (30'), Utrecht (35'), Groningen (150') and many other cities throughout the Randstad and the Netherlands. International connections to Cologne, Berlin, Frankfurt, Prague, Moscow, Basel and Copenhagen can be reached through Utrecht. To get to the city centre of The Hague from the Central Station, leave through the left side entrance (where the trams are located) and walk through the glass passageway and straight ahead. You should reach the centre of town in less than 5 minutes.
By Car - The Hague is connected by toll-free motorways to Amsterdam (A4 and A44), Rotterdam (A13) and Utrecht (A12). Access to the center of town is through the A12 motorway which penetrates the city center like a needle and ends on a large traffic junction just north of the historic center. Approaching the city from any of these motorways can take a long time during morning rush hour; in the evenings most of the traffic is headed out of town. On hot summer days, hundreds of thousands of people try to reach the Scheveningen (The Hague) beach by car, and huge traffic jams of up to 50 km long may occur, causing traffic delays of up to several hours. On such days, consider taking a train. A park and ride facility, P+R Hoornwijck, opened in 2008 on the Laan van Hoornwijck by the Ypenburg interchange. Motorists can easily reach it from the A4 (Exit 9) and A13 (Exit 7).
