Olomouc has the second largest and second oldest historic preservation zone in the Czech Republic, (after Prague). Olomouc lies astride the Morava River and is surrounded by the fertile Haná plain. It was capital of Moravia until 1641 and is the fifth-largest city in the country, with approximately 103,000 inhabitants.).
The first written mention of a settlement at Olomouc is almost 1000 years ago when the Kosmas Chronicle described a fortified castle watching over the important Morava river ford on the road between Krakow and Prague. The city today is the seat of the regional government, the Moravian archbishopric and the oldest university in Moravia, Palacky University (Universita Palackého).
Legend claims that the city was founded by Julius Caesar. It’s unlikely that Caesar actually visited in person, but it is known that the city was originally a Roman military camp with the name Uilio Munsis (Julius’ Hill). This name was gradually corrupted to its present form, Olomouc - which is pronounced 'Olo-mowts'. The Roman influence is a proud heritage of the city, and manifests itself in numerous areas.
Olomouc is doubtless the undiscovered gem of the Czech Republic. It is home to countless beautiful buildings, great culture (home of the Moravian Philharmonic Orchestra), and hundreds of unique restaurants, bars, and pubs. Olomouc is totally off the radar of most tourists, feeling quietly normal and relaxed even on a nice day in July.
As the home to Palacky University, Olomouc is the country’s largest student city by percentage of population. Palacky University is one of the largest and most prestigious universities in the country and only Charles’ University in Prague has a longer history. During the academic year, the population of the city is increased by roughly 20,000 students, giving the city a vibrant feeling of life and energy.
Olomouc has been the seat of the Catholic Archbishop for almost 1,000 years, and thus has some of the most beautifully decorated churches in Central Europe - though they will not appear in many travel guides.
PLACE TO VISIT
The Holy Trinity Column was built in the early 1700's and consecrated by the Empress Marie Theresa in 1754. With a height of 35 metres, it has dominated the main square ever since and was added to the UNESCO list of World Cultural Heritage in the year 2000. The column features sculptures of the Holy Trinity (predictably), the assumption of the Virgin Mary, all twelve apostles, three virtues and the most important saints of the Baroque period. The base of the column contains a small chapel with amazing acoustics and the raised pedestal is a very nice place to sit and eat lunch.
The renaissance Olomouc Town Hall occupies the centre of the main square. Its halls and chapel are accessible on guided tours and it's possible to climb the tower each day at 11am and 3pm. The ground floor of the town hall houses a gallery, restaurant and the tourist information office. On the north face is one of only two astronomical clocks in the country.
The Astronomical clock was constructed in the 15th Century, but takes its present appearance from the 1950's, during a refurbishment to repair damage inflicted in WWII. Czechoslovakia was under Communist rule by then and the clock reflects the values of the day, the saints and angels being replaced by scientists, sportspeople and labourers. There is one other astronomical clock in the Czech lands (in the other ancient capital, Prague), but as a surviving example of Socialist -Realism, the Olomouc Astronomical clock is unique world-wide.
St. Wenceslas Cathedral, a thousand-year-old cathedral, dominates the city’s skyline with the tallest spire in Moravia, (second tallest in the Czech Republic) Pope John Paul II and Mother Tereza have both visited the cathedral and the holy relics of Saint Jan Sarkander are interred within.
St. Moritz church is a beautifully preserved gothic church dating from 1398. One of its highlights is the massive Engler organ, one of the largest in Europe. The organ is the focus of the international music festival in September/October and the Christmas Music festival every year. The tower of the church offers a magnificent 360 degree view over the city and countryside and is accessed via a graceful double-spiral staircase.
St. Michael's church appears quite plain from the outside. Upon entering, however, most first time visitors find their breath stolen away. Inside is one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Central Europe. One notable feature is a painting of an apparently pregnant Virgin Mary, quite rare in a catholic church. It’s also possible to enter the old monastery attached to the side of the church and climb its bell tower.
Bezručovy Sady is a lovely park that runs between the massive Fortress walls and the Mill channel, providing a great place to stroll and relax, also nice views of the University and St. Michael's Church
Basilica Minor on the Holy Hill (Svatý Kopeček). This is one of the most popular pilgrimage churches in Central Europe, and was honoured by Pope John Paul II. The best way to reach it is to take the bus 11 to Svatý Kopeček from stand 'E' in front of the railway station.
The University is spread throughout the city, but the most interesting parts to visitors are between the main square and St. Wenceslas’ Cathedral. The fine arts faculty has a sunny terrace courtyard with a café and views over the city walls from above. Also notable is the law campus on 17th. November Ave. which was formerly the headquarters of the Communist party.
Baroque Fountains. The city’s impeccable series of six stone baroque founains are all within easy walking distance of the Main Square. They are based on Roman themes, and depict Jupiter, Mercury, Triton, Neptune, Hercules, and the legendary founder of Olomouc, Julius Caesar.
Modern fountains. There are also several remarkable modern fountains in Olomouc. The Arion fountain in the Main Square depicts the legend of a poet thrown overboard and saved by a dolphin. It was specially designed to allow easy access to the water and is a favourite among children. There are also two fountains located near the Main Railway Station, one of which ‘dances’ along to recorded classical music. See this article on Czech Wikipedia for pictures.
The Archbishops’ palace on Wurmova Ulice is open to the public just one day per week. It was in this building on 2 December 1848, that [Franz Joseph] acceded to the throne of the [Austro-Hungarian Hapsburg Empire].
The Premyslid palace has recently undergone a thorough restoration and now houses the extensive Archdiocese museum. The building is the oldest in Olomouc and much of the original stonework has been exposed. On the upper floors, the circular chapel of St Barbara is a highlight. Entry is 50Kč for adults, but free of charge every Wednesday and Sunday. The museum is closed every Monday.
Hradisko Monastery is the oldest in Moravia and its location on the banks of the Morava river, just upstream from the orthodox church, make it a pleasant 20-minute walk from the cathedral end of town. The monastery building has belonged to the military since the monastic order was banned by [Emperor Joseph II] in [1784]. It is now used as a hospital and is open to the public for sightseeing only on Thursdays.
WHAT TO DO
The theatre in the square is home to the Moravian Philharmonic Orchestra, as well as numerous musicals, operas, and plays. The price for tickets is difficult to beat. Be warned that the dialogue will usually be either in Czech or the original language.
The Zoo on the Holy Hill is also worth a visit. It is located near the basilica. There are pointers from the basilica to the ZOO or ask the locals for directions. You can also take the bus line 11 to the terminal station. The ZOO is located in woods abundant in edible mushrooms suitable for pleasant walks.
The Museum of Modern Art (Muzeum moderního uměni) is the pale grey building across from the baroque Lady Mary of the Snows church. The permanent collection is OK, but the temporary exhibitions are often very interesting and well worth the 50Kc entrance fee (free on Wednesdays and Sundays) There’s a small lookout tower at the top which is included in the entry price of the museum.
The History and Nature museum (Vlastivědné Muzeum) is housed in the former Clarisian convent on Náměstí Republiky (Republic Square). There are the usual collection of rocks and artifacts, and an interesting exhibit of the flora and fauna of the region, but probably the best things to see are in the old Olomouc section; woodcuts and prints from previous centuries, weapons, armour, traditional dress and many of the original religious figures from older versions of the astronomical clock. The museum is closed every Monday.
The Botanic Gardens are in two parts; the outdoor exhibits and rose gardens are across the stream from Bezruč gardens, which is the park below the tall city walls (behind St Michael’s church). The greenhouses are behind the Flora exhibition complex; near where the footbridge goes over the main road to connect the two parks together. The main tropical greenhouse also holds large aquariums and terrariums with a range of alligators, snakes, piranhas, and large furry spiders.
City Walls A series of defensive fortifications and moats once completely enclosed Olomouc. The best preserved parts are visible from the Bezruč gardens, below St. Michaels church. The water barracks that today house the Russian and Irish pubs and the 24hr espresso bar were also part of the system. There were also sixteen outlying forts, some of which still exist. Most still belong to the military and are off limits to the public, but one is home to ‘Exit discotheque’, and another is within the grounds of the botanic gardens. Enter just across the mill channel from Bezruč gardens, via the footbridge guarded by the four statues of Hercules.
Commercial Art Galleries Czech and Moravian artists produce a lot of very unusual ceramic/pottery pieces and small works of art, which make great original souvenirs or gifts, and there are several shops/galleries in Olomouc filled with them. Some of the best are situated on Ztracena Ulice which heads off the square from the Caesar fountain. Next to Cafe Caesar in the town hall building is Gallery Caesar. It almost always exhibits contemporary art from local Olomouc or Czech artists. Gallery Mona Lisa (also a café), on the corner of the square near the Arion fountain (turtle fountain) is a similar exhibition space focused on contemporary art. In the beautiful Villa Primavesi right next to St Michael’s Church there is another small gallery worth visiting if only for the chance to wander through the entrance hall of this historic house. On the top floor of the local art museum there is a small exhibit about Villa Primavesi, its history and role in the Art Nouveau movement.
The Ice Hockey stadium is on Hynaisova, behind the supermarket. Olomouc is more of a football than a hockey town, but Ice Hockey is a great spectator sport, a real piece of local life and probably the best two hours’ entertainment you will find for 50Kc.
The Letní Kino (summer cinema) is only open in the warmer months and shows films four nights a week, beginning as soon as it gets dark enough. The entrance is from Pekarska Ul. You can’t see the cinema from the street but it’s the same entrance as the mini-golf and you will walk past a large outdoor beer garden before finding the entrance to the cinema. The cinema is an amphitheatre that can hold 3000 people. You can see it quite well on the town model in the main square.
HOW TO REACH
By train - From Prague, the easiest way to get to Olomouc is to take the direct train that leaves every few hours. Depending on the type of the train, the journey can take from 2 hours and 15 minutes (SC Pendolino, costs 400 Kč) to 3 hours and 30 minutes (Fast Train, 244 Kč). Always state the type of the train at the cash desk. If you are not sure, tell the salesperson the time of departure. Note that the Pendolino departs from Prague Holešovice, not the Main Station. If you are travelling in a group (two or more passengers are considered a group) ask for a group ticket, which entitles you to a 30% discount on domestic tickets. You should receive the discount automatically without requesting it, but if you want to be sure, ‘group discount’ in Czech is ‘sleva pro skupiny’.
By bus - Travelling by bus can be cheaper for individuals but is usually most suitable for shorter trips within the Czech Republic. Buses are operated by the official government transport authority and a private company, Student Agency. Student Agency offer competitive prices on some journeys, their buses are modern and extra services such as tea, coffee and films are included.
