Cesky Krumlov is a fairly large city located in Southern Bohemia in the Czech Republic. Its setting and the town itself has a lot of character and is certainly worth a stay. The historical center, added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1992, is notable for its well-preserved Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. The Český Krumlov Castle, built in the 13th century, is the second largest castle complex in Czech Republic after Prague castle. The Vltava River snakes through the town, making the inner historical center an island unto itself.
Český Krumlov is an important cultural center, hosting a number of festivals and other events each year. The best known is the Five-Petalled Rose Festival (the name is derived from the Rožmberk crest of a 5 petal red rose), which is celebrated on the weekend of summer solstice in June. The downtown area is cleared of traffic and recreated as a medieval town with craftsmen, artists, musicians, and local people dressed in costumes from the Middle Ages. Various activities such as jousting, fencing, historical dance performances, and folk theatre take place at the castle, local park, and the river bank, among other places. The festival is concluded by a fireworks show above the castle.
Since the Velvet Revolution in 1989, over eighty restaurants have been established in the area, including Don Julius, Papa's Living, The Two Marys, the Tavern Markéta in the Castle gardens, the pub Na Louži, and the Pizzeria Latran. Many restaurants are located along the river and near the castle
PLACE TO VISIT
The Český Krumlov castle complex is the most-visited site in town. You can walk through the castle complex for free, or you can pay for either a guided tour of the interiors and the unique Castle Baroque Theater or pay a small entrance fee to walk up to the top of the castle tower. Plan at least two hours for your visit, and buy supplies for a picnic lunch in the castle gardens at the grocery across the ulice from the castle entrance on Latrán. The best approach to the castle is from Latrán. Walk through the red iron gates to the first castle courtyard that houses the Unios Tourist Information center, public washrooms, a souvenir shop, Doxa Galerie, and in the summer months, a tropically inspired mixed drink stand serving up mojitos, caprinhas, and daquiris. As you approach the castle, you cross the Bear Moat, where the famous Krumlov bears gambol about lazily. Put a few coins in the slot to help keep them fat and happy. The second castle courtyard features the entrance to the castle tower (35 crowns). After slogging up the vertiginous staircase, you are treated to a 360-degree view of the town. Here is also a small fountain, and the main ticket office where you can book scheduled tours of the interior to the castle and the one-of-a-kind Baroque Theatre. The restaurant Maselnice, across from the ticket office, is a good place to stop for refreshment. Tours of the castle interior begin in the third castle courtyard, where you will find another souvenir store and the entrance to the Wenceslas Cellars (60 crowns), which now houses modern ceramic art pieces. Plaštovy Most, or the “Cloaked Bridge” is covered by a walkway that leads from the Castle to the Baroque Theatre, and affords another sweeping view of the town. Continue to walk uphill and you will find the entrance to the monumental castle gardens. A newly restored fountain, maze of hedgerows, a revolving theatre and a Medieval-style restaurant, Marketa beckon. At the far end of the castle gardens, you’ll find a lush duck pond, situated in a stand of moody, gnarled trees. This is the perfect picnic spot.
Český Krumlov is a jumble of 750 years of architectural design, and for this reason was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Part of the fun is to get lost in its maze of cobbled ulices, while the Vltava River rushes along from almost every direction, adding to the confusion. Walking the length of Latrán from Budějovická Gate to the town square, Náměstí Svornosti, up Horní and across the bridge to the Barbakán, will take about an hour if you’re interested in stopping and gawping at sites.
WHAT TO DO
Rafting On a sunny day you definitely should go rafting on the Vltava river. Load up a raft with beer and other refreshments, wear a swimming suit and go! You can rent rafts on several locations and hostels in and out the town, and near the camping area as well.
Egon Schiele Centrum Egon Schiele, one of the world’s most famous artists, was a contemporary of Gustav Klimt. He set up his easel for a short time in Český Krumlov, painting the tortured landscapes of his famous Dead Town series, and young girls in compromising poses. The townspeople labeled him a perverted pornographer, and drove him out. Ironically, Český Krumlov has now proudly embraced the genius of Egon Schiele, and has honored his memory with the Egon Schiele Centrum, a museum that houses some of his works, and most importantly, internationally-renown exhibitions of exciting modern artists. Unlike most museums in the Czech Republic, this one is open on Mondays.
Horseback Riding A 30-minute walk out of town rewards you with the opportunity to ride some beautiful horses through the local fields and forests accompanied by a guide. They provide all the gear you need, including a helmet. Wear comfortable clothing and bring a couple sugar cubes or an apple to sweeten the experience. You must book ahead – ask at your accommodations or at one of the tourist information centers.
Krumlov Tours This independently-owned company with professionally trained, English-speaking tour guides will take you on an unforgettable tour of the town. Tours run daily, and include: The Eggenberg Brewery Tour (1 hour plus free beer-tasting), Old Town Tour (1.5 hour tour with seasonal focus) Ghost Tour (1 hour) and Rose Trail (1 hour). Special tours and prices arranged on request. Pick up your tickets at the Infocentrum on the town square or at Unios Travel Service.
Regional Museum The Český Krumlov Regional Museum features permanent exhibitions of Bohemian antiques, geological fossils, archeological finds from the nearby Celtic oppidum, and interesting rotating exhibits of local interest. On the top floor, check out the ceramic scale model of Český Krumlov at the turn of the 19th century, when eight more towers and spires decorated the landscape.
HOW TO REACH
By bus - From Prague (and other nearby cities or towns of Bohemia), getting to Český Krumlov by public bus is easier, faster, and cheaper than the train. Prague has three major bus stations: Na Knízecí (near the Anděl metro station), Florenc (metro lines B and C), and Roztyly (metro line C). A one-way journey takes around three hours, and costs 172 Kc (as of September 2007). Depending on its route, you will also pass through some interesting towns such as Pisek, Tabor and almost certainly České Budějovice. Upon arriving in Český Krumlov, there are two bus stops: one first is north of the castle, the second is the main terminal and is located east of the main square. Both stations are about a five to ten minute walk from the main square--from the north, walk down Latrán Ulice, from the east, head westward and look for Horni street off the main road.
By train - You can take a train to Český Krumlov from Prague at the Hlavní Nádraží train station (Praha hl.n.) for about 224 Kc (and for two or more people, group rates or sleva pro skupiny are available). The trip takes about four to four and a half hours in total, and usually requires a transfer at České Budějovice, as direct trains to Český Krumlov are not common. To transfer by train, take a local train toward Volary, which will take an hour to make the sluggish but beautiful 28 km trip. Alternatively, you can transfer by bus; the main bus terminal in České Budějovice is just 300 meters down the street from the train station. A bus takes around 45 minutes, not including transfer time which can vary.
The train station in Český Krumlov is located north of the main square and the castle, about a 15-20 minute downhill walk away. Taxis often wait in the parking lot for tired travelers--it may be worth the 100 Kc ride into town, especially at night.
