Bissau is the capital city of Guinea-Bissau. It is an autonomous city whose borders are
conterminous with the Bissau Region. As of 2007, the city has an estimated population of
407,424 according to the Instituto Nacional de Estatística e Censos
The last time an official census was held in the country, in 1991, the city/region had a
population of 195,389. The city is located on the Geba River estuary, off the Atlantic Ocean.
It is the country's largest city, major port, and administrative and military center. Peanuts,
hardwoods, copra, palm oil, and rubber are the chief products. The city was founded in
1687 by Portugal as a fortified port and trading center. In 1942 it became the capital of
Portuguese Guinea. After the declaration of independence by the guerilla, in 1973, the
capital of the independent territory was declared to be Madina do Boe, but Bissau
remained as the capital of the Portuguese-occupied regions, i. e., of Portuguese Guinea.
When Portugal recognized the independence of Guinea-Bissau and pulled out, in 1974,
the two territories merged and Bissau became the capital of the new state. Bissau
The city is known for its annual carnival. Other attractions include the Fortaleza d'Amura
barracks containing Amílcar Cabral's mausoleum, the Pidjiguiti Memorial to the dockers
killed in the Bissau Dockers' Strike on August 3, 1959, the Guinea-Bissau National Arts
Institute, Bissau New Stadium and local beaches. Many buildings in the city were ruined
during the Guinea-Bissau Civil War, including the Guinea-Bissau Presidential Palace and
the Bissau French Cultural Centre (now rebuilt), and the city centre is still underdeveloped.
PLACE TO VISIT
The presidential palace - bombed-out during the civil war, but still standing, though now only inhabited by bats.
Bissau Velho - the old Portuguese colonial centre. Not much life there nowadays, but still a nice place to walk around. Don't miss the prison with pink flowers painted on its front (At the corner of the fort, close to the harbour).
Porto Pidjiguiti - walk out the little port and talk to the fishermen, watch the pelicans
and see the city from a distance. The Pidjiguiti port was the site of the Pidjiguiti massacre
on 3rd of august 1959, where police shot down some 50 striking dockworkers. This
became the beginning of the active resistance against the Portuguese colonial power.
There is a monument shaped as a gigantic black fist commemorating the massacre.
Mercado de Bandim - Bissaus main market.
Fortaleza d'Amura - old Portuguese fort, containing the mausoleum of national
hero Amilcar Cabral and tombs of other revolutionaries. Inside is also Amilcar Cabral's
car and a statue of him, given by Cuba some 20 years ago, but never raised, hard to
explain why. Can be hard to get in, but possible, if you make friends with the soldiers or
get a permission.
Museu Etnográfico Nacional - on the university campus, opposite "Lenox de
Bairro". Open mornings only, it has a small collection of Bissau-Guinean wooden masks
and statues, baskets, cloths etc. The staff is very helpful and good at explaining the
purpose of the different items, and connecting it to traditional spiritual beliefs.
WHAT TO DO
French Cultural Center in the Bayana roundabout often features concerts, movies,
dance classes, french classes etc
Portuguese Cultural Center (next to the Portuguese embassy, behind "Benfica")
also hosts concerts, but in slightly less inviting surroundings.
Swim at Bissau Palace (5000 FCFA), Hotel Azalaï 24 de Setembro or Campo Sueco
(3000 FCFA - somewhat more noisy and crowded, but more African atmosphere).
Exercise on the running lanes or in the gym in Estadio 24 de Setembro.
Play tennis in the tennis club at the Bandim Harbour (close to Estadio 24 de
Setembro) or in Campo Sueco.
Ilheu do Rei - a nice get-away for a picnic if you're in Bissau on a longer term. Go to
Porto Canoa (behind Mavegro and the cemetery) and ask around for a canoa to take you
to the island, it takes about 10 minutes and you should not pay much for the return ticket
(1000 FCFA?). Once there, check out the abandoned peanut oil factory, and continue
through the little village down to a little "beach" (ask people where it is), from where you
can turn left and walk along the coast, if you don't mind climbing a little over trees and
rocks. For once there is no mangrove, so you can actually get the feeling of strolling along
the coast.
Volta de Bissau Starting at the Porto Canoa, this track goes around Bissau, passing
rice fields and small suburbs, the big cemetery in Antula, São Paulo etc, and eventually
you'll end up at the airport road close to Hotel Bissau Palace. A nice sunday walk, some 4
hours, not all stretches are suitable for vehicles.
Praia Suro in Prabis is the Guineans favorite weekend get-away in the dry season. The
beach is a bit muddy, but there's always good ambient with music, people dancing,
barbecuing, playing football and swimming. Just follow Estrada de Bor out of Bissau,
continue when it turns into a dirt road, and eventually you'll reach the beach (might be a
two-hour drive).
HOW TO REACH
By plane - There are direct flights Lisbon-Bissau with TAP every friday, returning same
day. There is a daily Air Senegal flight from Dakar, Senegal to Bissau and back. The
schedule is published on the Air Senegal
