Hovd is a city in the Hovd province of Mongolia. The history of Hovd dates back about 240 years. At the center of the town there is a ruined fort, where the Manchu dynasty Viceroy lived with his troops. Mongolian revolutionaries chased them out in 1912. While the Manchus were ruling, they planted trees along the main streets that can still be seen today.
Since 1912, Hovd has developed, acquiring a big hospital, a university for the youth of Western Mongolia, a quality airport, kindergartens, a cinema, and a theater.
Hovd is unique in its diverse ethnic makeup. It consists of 17 soums, some of which have their own ethnic groups including Kazakhs and seven different Mongolian ethnic groups. Many of the small ethnic groups represented in the city are from the surrounding Hovd aimag, and have their own unique dialects, clothes, dances, songs, musical instruments, and ceremonies. Urianhais are of especial note—their archery is very unique and involves shooting at leather balls.
PLACE TO VISIT
Anything is possible to see in Hovd such as Kazakh, Khalkh Mongolian and other Mongolian ethnic groups customs and culture. It is a chance for every tourist because there are many ethnic groups living in Hovd.
Baatar Hairhan Mountain - Right outside the city next to the Hovd airport. This mountain is an historical site because one of the famous Mongolian generals gave his command to his soldiers and attacked Hovd city and freed it from the Manchu troops in the 1920s. There are also many ancient petroglyphs on this mountain.
Cave Paintings - One of Hovd aimag's best known attractions are the cave paintings at Tsenkheriin Agui in Mankhan soum, a little less than 100 km southeast of the aimag center. These red-ochre paintings are believed to be 15,000 years old, which would date them in the Late Stone Age (or Upper Paleolithic Age). The drawings depict a wide variety of animals, some are readily identifiable, such as camels, sheep, bulls, and ibex, others are open to the interpretation of the viewer, such as a drawing of what appears to be an ostrich. Some of the drawings have been defaced by vandals in recent years, though copies of the drawings as they appeared before they were defaced are preserved at the Hovd Museum.
Mineral Springs - There is one big spring which is to the northeast of the city on the road to Buyant and Myangad soum. It is said that people who get poisoned seek treatment from the spring's water. There is another spring on the mountain directly behind the town, called "Drop Spring", about 5km from the center of Hovd. People believe that it is good for your heart.
Museum - The museum is located in a yellow two-story building across from the police station. It's a place you'll certainly want to see during your time in the aimag center. One of the museum's two most important holdings is a letter from Galdan Boshgot, a king of western Mongolia who led battles against the Manchurians, to the Russian czar. The other highlight is a display featuring traditional costumes of the ten ethnic groups of Khovd--full-sized, complete outfits. The museum boasts an impressive collection of archaeological artifacts of nomadic life in Mongolia: bowls, tools, even traditional style thermoses. There are several displays of Buddhist relics and statuettes, and old documents and hangings in ancient Mongolian script. You can also see a rather large photo of the cave paintings at Mankhan sum, actually a better representation of their original appearance now that the actual paintings have been defaced by grafitti. There is also a collection of stuffed wildlife. Summer hours: Daily 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. (Actual hours may vary slightly). Admission: 2,000T. Fee for taking photos: 6,000T. Fee for taking videos: 11,000-12,000T.
Statues - Three of Western Mongolia's heroes are commemorated as statues near the government building: Ard-Ayush (1859-1939), was a common man from Hovd whose struggles against the Manchu rulers turned him into a revolutionary hero, his statue is located at the front end of the main square. Galdanboshogt (16xx-16xx) was a Jungarian King who in 1685 founded Hovd as a fort for Mongolian troops preparing for the coming battle against the Manchus; his statue is also in the main square, closer to the government building. A statue of Amarsanaa, another hero of the revolution is located in a secret park behind the government building.
Theater - Perhaps Khovd's easiest landmark to find is the theater, a large, bright-red building opposite the square. It's the home of the Altain Tsuurai, a well-known group that plays traditional Mongolian music. The theater hosts many kinds of events, including plays, meetings, and concerts. It's the place to listen to khoomii (throat singing), long song, hear music played on the morin khuur, dombre, and other traditional instruments, or watch traditional Kazakh or Mongolian dancing, if you are lucky enough to be in town during an event. It is officially open on weekdays, but may not be unlocked unless there is an event taking place.
SHOPPING
Kazakh Embroidery Shop - Hovd is a great place to buy Kazakh embroidered goods. There are two local women who make and sell these items: Marima (mobile 99438849) and Berdgul (143222586), together they run the Kazakh Embroidery Shop. Their workshop makes everything from traditional wall hangings to purses, traditional Kazakh men's hats, pillowcases, and felt carpets. The purses and pillow cases are made with old Kazakh wall hangings so the colors are more subdued to fit the tastes of foreigners. Both Marima and Berdgul are very friendly and speak fantastic English. The building is located on the main road, if you are at the square facing the theater turn right and walk down the right side of the street. You will see the shop's sign just past the apartment building, it is painted in English on the side of the shop.
Ih Buyan Zah / Pink Market (Их Буян Зах) - This market is a two-story pink building just east of Hovd University. The lower level is mostly for food, there are small sections for meat and produce towards the back. The second floor is loaded with clothing vendors, including some traditional Mongolian deel makers (to find them, go straight at the top of the stairs). A traditional deel should cost about 35,000-40,000T including materials and labor. There are a few surprising shops interspersed amongst the more traditional vendors, including a toy store (2nd floor), a bookstore with English language books (2nd floor), several electronics vendors, and a good stationery store that also sells some souvenirs (1st floor, separate entrance from rest of market, 1st set of doors after the guanz).
Nomin - M-F: 9-9, S-Sun: 10-9. Nomin is Hovd's big supermarket. There are items in Nomin that can't be found anywhere else in town, particularly in the pricey imported foods section near the front. While they mostly sell food and drinks, they also sell appliances, home furnishings, and have a separate section where people can buy clothes and traditional Mongolian and Kazakh souvenirs. The souvenirs in this section are a bit pricey, as the items are brought in from other parts of the country. They have Chinggis Khaan key chains, wallets, and wall hangings, as well as felt slippers and morin khuurs. For about 25,000T you can buy vodka that comes in a glass bottle the shape of a ger.
HOW TO REACH
By air - EZnis Airline, The most reliable airline that flies between Ulaanbaatar and Hovd. The Hovd EZnis office is located on the 2nd floor of the Xac Bank building near the market, the staff speaks English and is helpful. All times local. :*April 1st - May 31st: Tu, F, Su, flights depart Ulaanbaatar at 8AM, and depart from Hovd 10:25AM the same day . :*June 1st - June 30th: Tu, F, flights depart Ulaanbaatar at 6AM, and depart from Hovd 8:25AM the same day. :*July 1st - July 28th: F only, flights depart Ulaanbaatar at 6AM, and depart from Hovd at 10:45AM the same day. :*August 5th - September 27th: F only, flights depart Ulaanbaatar at 6AM, and depart from Hovd at 10:45AM the same day. Round-trip flights for foreigners are about $434.
By bus - UB to Hovd: The bus to Hovd leaves from the Dragon Center in UB. At this time (September 2008) the bus leaves three times a week around 1 p.m. from UB, typically Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for 55000(MNT) one way. You can purchase tickets up to three days in advance; speak to a driver about purchasing a ticket or approach the building behind the buses with an "автобус" sign on it. There are several ticket windows with destinations, one of which will be Hovd (Ховд) or you can ask any of the women behind the windows for guidance. Other vehicles leave from the Black Market (Naran Tuul) to Khovd. There are no scheduled times for these vehicles to leave, they leave when the driver thinks his vehicle is full. Prices for vehicles from the Black Market vary but are usually around 65000(MNT) one way. Travel time can be anywhere from 36hrs to 58hrs, depending on the driver and vehicle.
