Tel Aviv is the second largest city in Israel after Jerusalem. It is located on the Mediterranean coast, about 60 km north-west of Jerusalem and some 100 km south of Haifa. The official name is Tel Aviv-Yafo and reflects the fact that the city has grown beside (and absorbed) the ancient port city of Yafo , to the south of the new city center, in addition to many other neighboring cities.
The smallish gulf of Jaffa has been the site of a fortified port town for at least 4000 years. During the 19th century the town’s population grew from about 2,500 (1806) to 17,000 (1886). The old city walls could no longer contain the population, and they were destroyed in the 1870s. New, more spacious neighborhoods started to appear.
Tel Aviv (meaning literally "Hill of Spring") itself was founded in 1909 by a group of distinguished Jewish residents of Jaffa. They envisaged a European-style garden suburb, with wide streets and boulevards. Leaving Jaffa wasn’t, however, only a question of an upgrade in lifestyle. Moving out of the Arab-dominated town also represented their belief in the Jewish national movement, their belief in Zionism. Before being a city, Tel Aviv was one of the many titles of Herzel's Zionist utopia - The Old New Land book. Setting out with a grand vision, the 60 Tel Aviv founders have started out by building the first mid-eastern urban center with running waters, no small wonder at that parts of the world in 1909.
Tel Aviv grew steadily under Ottoman law until WWI. By the end of the war the British took over the Holy Land. An event the Jewish community saw as encouraging, while and the Muslim community viewed as a turn-for-the-worst from the previous Islamic ruler. In May 1921, an Arab mob attacked a Jewish immigration center, killing dozens of Jews. Another group broke the windows stores in the Jewish street in Jaffa and a mob armed with knives and sticks have made his way towards Tel Aviv. Before 1921 most Jews worked and lived in Jaffa, after the attack thousands of the 16,000 Jews of Jaffa moved north to Tel Aviv. The suburb had become a city and within a decade, Tel Aviv had become the center of culture, commerce and light industry for the entire Jewish population of the country as well as the British soldiers. 1938 marked the opening of Tel Aviv port, an important milestone marking the end of its dependency on Jaffa. By this time, Tel Aviv was already the biggest city in the country, with 130,000 residents. After Israel’s declaration of independence in 1948, Jaffa became a district of Tel Aviv and the city's name was officially changed to Tel Aviv-Yafo.
PLACE TO VISIT
Eretz Israel Museum Open Su-Th 9AM-3PM, F-Sa 10AM-2PM. History, archaeology and culture - includes the archaeological site of Tel Qasile, the remains of an early Philistine settlement Adult: 38 NIS, Child: 26 NIS.
Beth Hatefutsoth (Museum of Jewish Diaspora), Open Su-Th 10am-4pm. This multimedia museum tells the story of the 2000 years of Jewish life throughout the entire world. It’s less about history and more about people: how the lived, worked, celebrated or prayed. A must-see if you like to know more about Jewish heritage. The museum is situated inside Tel-Aviv University campus, so you can walk around a bit to see how the Israeli student looks like. The university gallery sometimes features interesting exhibitions. The newly built Smolarsh Auditorium is nicknamed The Atomic Reactor, due to its strange shape; the red-brick synagogue is referred to as The Petrol Distillery because its resemblance to the country main distilleries north of Haifa. Adults: NIS 35, including audio guiding.
Rabin Square. The biggest public square in Israel is located by the footsteps of the city hall. This square hosts many public demonstrations and events with thousands of participators. The peace support demonstration in 1995 was held here and that's where PM Itzhak Rabin was assassinated. A memorial in his memory is located the the north-east corner of the square.
Dizengoff Square. where there is a huge fountain with mixing fire and water. It is sometimes used for independence day alongside
Gan Meir. A small garden between King George and Chernihovsky streets. A green little corner in the midst of the metropolitan. On some evenings you might see mature people playing kids games - it's Tel Aviv.
Tel-Aviv Museum of Art, Open M/W/Sa 10AM-4PM, Tu/Th 10AM-10PM, F 10AM-2PM. The main municipal art museum for Tel Aviv focuses on modern and contemporary art. Check for the changing exhibitions and you might find real gems. The children's wing is great fun and not just for kids. The museum also hosts chamber music and Jazz performances on occasions.
Bauhaus Center Tel Aviv, despite its compact size, the Bauhaus Centre manages to survey almost the entire gamut of the Bauhaus design genre. Detailed exhibitions, books, maps and posters, multimedia and a great little shop.... The Center also conducts tours of the Tel Aviv Bauhaus White City (Fr, 10am, duration 2 hours - book ahead) and other destinations.
Haganah Museum, Su-Th 9am-3pm, Fri 9am-12noon. Recounting the fascinating story of the embryonic Israel Defence Force, from British Mandate days to Israeli independence in 1948 and beyond, lots of interesting artifacts, weapons and memorabilia. Admission NIS 10.
Raw Art Gallery, Open daily, 07pm-2am. The place to see contemporary emerging Israeli artists, with monthly exhibits.
Old Jaffa — just south-west of the Yarkon street is the old port of Jaffa, which in the past was the biggest seaport in Israel. Today the port itself and the area close to it have become a renovated district. Some of the most interesting places in the city are found in this small area, for example, St. Peter's Catholic Church, a Franciscan church, built in the 19th century on the remains of Crusaders' fortress, which serves also as a hostel. It is told that Napoleon stayed in that church while it was a hostel.
the Wishing Bridge in Old Jaffa. The myth says if you touch your zodiac sign and face the sea, your wish will come true.
the Ramesses Gate
the Zodiac alleys — a network of restored alleys, full with art galleries, which lead to the Jaffa seaport.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Israel's main entry point for the international traveler is the newly built Terminal 3 at Ben Gurion International Airport (referred to by its Hebrew initials Natbag by locals). The airport comprises all the usual amenities expected from a first class airport and contains one of the world's largest duty-free shopping malls for an airport of its size.
Even though The Airport is called TLV it's not actually in Tel Aviv so a further 20 minute drive is needed to get inside Tel Aviv. This trip can be done by train, bus, shared taxi (Sherut) or special taxi from Ben Gurion airport.
By car - Tel Aviv is the hub of the country's modern network of freeways. The city is easily accessible from Ben Gurion Airport via the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv freeway (freeway 1), from the north by Tel Aviv-Haifa freeway (freeway 2), as well as from Beer-Sheva and the southern parts of the country (freeways 4 and 20). Freeways' speed limit varies between 90km/h and 100km/h. On other intercity roads the limit is 80km/h. On urban roads the default speed limit is 50km/h.
By bus - The New Central Bus Station in southern Tel Aviv ("Tahana Merkazit", officially the world's biggest bus station!) offers routes servicing most locations in Israel. It is located within a short walking distance of the HaHaganah Train Station. The building, which is a combination of shopping mall and bus terminal, is more than a bit confusing. Most inter-city bus lines depart from platforms on the north wing of 6th floor, except for buses to Galilee (Afula, Nazareth, Tiberias, Kiryat Shmona etc.) which are on the south wing on 7th floor (accessible by escalator from 6th floor). Most urban lines to Tel Aviv and its suburbs are on the north wing on 7th floor (which isn't connected to the south wing of the same floor!), with several lines on 4th floor which is actually at street level (those are popular city lines no. 4&5, and 44&46 to Bat Yam via Yafo). Several urban lines stop outside the station building on Levinski street (north side of the station), and some others a block away to the west on Har Zion street. Sherut taxis depart from Tzemach David street outside the east side of the station.
By train - Israel Railways operate train services within Israel. Train service has improved significantly during the last decade or so, and today they are a fast and comfortable alternative to buses for many destinations. Train services connect Tel Aviv to Haifa and Beer-Sheva, as well as numerous smaller towns whilst a direct train line connects Tel Aviv to Ben-Gurion airport.
Note that the train ride to Jerusalem follows the 19th century path, and this scenic route is worth taking at least once, even though taking the bus on the modern highway takes half the time. A new high-speed line between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem is currently being constructed, with eventual travel time of only 28 minutes.
