Beer Sheva is a desert city of approximately 200,000 inhabitants in southern Israel. It is the sixth largest city in the country and is very much the gateway to the Negev region of Israel. The city is spread out, as there is no shortage of land in the desert and there isn't much of a downtown, except for a few streets in the old Turkish quarter. While Beer Sheva is mostly middle class, it does have three wealthy satellite suburbs with manicured landscapes, private villas and a Palm Springs feel to them: Omer, Metar and Lehavim. A few Bedouin villages surround the city as well. Some feature tribal attractions which are worth a visit include Rahat, Tel Sheva, Hura and Laqiya. In Beer Sheva itself, some modern/experimental architecture was been explored in the 1960s. Today, this is found mostly in government and public buildings, including the Ben Gurion University and Soroka Hospital buildings.
Beer Sheva is at first sight highly disappointing for any visitor. As one enters the city, the oversized avenues and partially run down residential building blocks from the fifties and sixties make for an unwelcoming first impression. However, Beer Sheva can be of interest for any traveller who wishes to experience Israel off-the-beaten-track and there might be no better place to do this, since not even most Israelis are aware that Beer Sheva can be much more than only a stopover on the way to Eilat. The old Turkish town, as run down as it might be, has a very distinct feel and a is hugely underrated: it is the only planned Ottoman city in the entire region, erected in 1900 for strategic reasons in order to secure the Negev region and to control the revolting Beduin population. Today, the architectural and historical jewels, culinary highlights, highly welcoming people and the provincial atmosphere of Beer Sheva allow for the visitor to explore the "normal" and "unpretentious" Israel beyond Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Haifa. In addition to that, Beer Sheva offers the most vibrant student community in Israel - based around the University - which has developed a great nightlife one would never expect at first sight.
Beer Sheva's importance is its function as a central place for the entire Negev. Historically it developed because of the many wells, the most famous of it being "Abraham's Well". Biblically, the site of Beersheba is mentioned as a location where an oath of non-aggression was made between the Philistines, represented by a king named Abimelech, and Abraham. The bible describes the oath being made on two separate occasions by the Israelites, once represented by Abraham, and once by Isaac. Abraham lived in the city for 26 years and his son Isaac lived there for many years as well. It is from there that Jacob set out on his journey to "Haran" the birthplace of his mother, to flee from his brother Esau. Beersheba is also mentioned in Joshua 19:2. Beersheba was the southernmost city of Israel in Biblical times - hence the expression "from Dan to Beersheba" was sometimes used to describe the whole kingdom.
PLACE TO VISIT
Abraham's Well. Located at the edge of the Old Town and on the Wadi Beer Sheva, this small site contains the well where according to tradition Abraham made the oath with Abimeleh.
Israel Air Force Museum, +972-7-906428 (fax: +972-7-906314). Open every day except Saturday, 8.00 am to 5.00 pm (Fridays until 1.00 pm). Located next to Kibbutz Hatserim 5 km to the West of Beer Sheva. The museum displays historical airplanes of the Israeli Air Force.
Negev Brigade Memorial. Located on a hill to the west of the city, this large monument made out of concrete, commemorates symbolically the different aspects of the Negev Brigade which conquered the Negev region in Israel's War of Independance. There is a superb view on the city and its surroundings from this site.
Negev Museum. Located in the residence of the Turkish governor in the Old Town, this small museum contains an art collection and has changing exhibits.
Municipal Zoological Garden. Located at the North-Western entrance to the city, this Zoo displays many indigenous animals.
Old Turkish Town (Old City). The Old Town was planned by Turkish and German engineers at the end of the 19th century. Its streets form a grid (very uncommon in the region). Many building date from Turkish times and have secret gardens behing high walls. Rehabilitated Smilansky Street has the best preserved buildings. Additionally there is a wide array of cheap stores and excellent ethnic restaurants and bars.
British WWI Military Cemetery. Located just next the the Old Town, this cemetery is the resting place of British, Australian and New Zealand (ANZAC) soldiers which have fought against the Turks in the First World War.
Beduin Market. Located just outside of the city on the Road to Eilat, this market takes place every Thursday morning. Beduin merchandize can be found next to a wide array of other products.
Municipal Market. Located between the Old Town and the central bus station is a vibrant market for any kind of merchandize.
Tel Beer Sheva Archeological Park. Located outside the city to its east (next to Omer), this archeological park is a World Heritage Site and one of the top sites to explore how people have lived in Biblical times.
Ben-Gurion University of the Negev. Located in the northern part of town on the road to Tel Aviv, this renowned university has a vibrant campus with many buildings designed by famous architects. There are two art galleries located in the Senate Building and in the Library, a small museum of medical history in the building of the Medical Faculty and many small exhibits in the buildings of the different faculties
HOW TO REACH
By train - A very comfortable train ride links the city to Tel Aviv, Haifa, Natania and Naharia with hourly departures.
By road - From Tel Aviv: Highway 1 to Highway 40 south. Straight to Be'er Sheva approximately 1 1/2 hrs. From Jerusalem: Highway 1 towards Tel Aviv, Pick up route 3 at Latrun int, follow for 20 minutes to Route 40 at Re'em Junction. Straight ahead to Be'er Sheva. Total about 1:40.
By bus - From Tel Aviv: Take line 380 from Arlozorov Terminal, or line 370 from Tel Aviv Central Bus Station. The trip costs only 13 NIS. Both take about 1.5 hours.
From Jerusalem: From central bus station - line 470, 32 NIS, one and a half hours; line 446, 32 NIS, 1 hour and 50 minutes.
