Banlung is the capital city of Ratanakiri Province, Cambodia. It is also the capital of the Banlung District. It has a population of 17,000. The town was formerly known as Labansiek. It is a relatively lively commercial center; ethnic minorities from surrounding villages often come to the city market to sell their goods
This part of the country is heavily forested, giving way to plantation agriculture (rubber, cashews and oil palms) and home to 12 different ethnic minority groups, giving the province a sort of "edge of civilization" feel to it. The town is growing though, new roads are being built and some things change quite quickly.
PLACE TO VISIT
Banlung is situated near several spectacular natural attractions, including waterfalls, lakes and natural parks, and has hill tribe villages.
Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake is a 700,000 year old volcanic crater lake in the Yeak Laom (Yaklom) Commune Protected Area. The lake itself, as well as the surrounding areas, are considered sacred by the local tribal minorities, and many a legend abound about this lake. There are docks on the lake, and swimming and picnicking are options here. There is also a hiking trail which winds around the lake. Along the trail there is a visitors centre displaying some objects and folklore of the local hill tribes. There is a entrance fee of 4,000 riel (US$1) per day for this area.
Wat Rahtanharahm is located about 1 kilometre out of town at the base of Eisey Patamak Mountain. Inside is a large reclining Buddha situated amongst a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
There are several local waterfalls, and they are best seen during the rainy season when the water volume is at its highest and the vegetation is lush and green. Cha Ong is the most toured waterfall in the area, and is 18 metres high. The rock area behind the waterfall has been eroded away over the centuries by the waterfall, thus allowing you to walk behind the fall. Kan Chang is another fall, this one approximately 7 metres in height. It empties into a large pool in which it is possible to swim. Ka Tieng is a third waterfall, this one 10 metres tall, in the jungle which also allows swimming. Each of these charge a 2,000 riel entry fee in addition to whatever you shell out to get there in the first place.
On the way to the waterfalls, there are a few large rubber plantations.
As you might have figured out from all the gem dealers in town, Banlung and the Ratanakiri province is a significant gem mining area. Miners work in the Bokeo mines about 36 kilometres from the town extracting the gems which sometimes end up for sale in Banlung's market. For more information on a tour, ask your guesthouse.
Virachey National Park is about 37 kilometres northeast of town, and borders Laos and Vietnam. It's chock full of jungle and mountains, and hasn't been completely explored yet. In the wet season, not all areas of the park are accessible. The Ministery of Environment (Biodiversity and Protected Areas Management Project) offers jungle treks into the park, guided by a park ranger and community guide. Their office is located near the center of Banlung.
WHAT TO DO
Go on a rafting trip or jungle trek with a local guide. These can be tailored to your taste but can be expensive for only one or two people. The owner of Lakeview Lodge and Sitha (contact at A'dam restaurant) get good reviews from travellers.
Take a dirtbike ride along 'The Death Highway' ox cart tracks to Sen Monorom, visit a hilltribe cemetery or head to 7 steps waterfall and mining villages with http://www.dancingroads.com
Respect the locals. Ethnic minorities are animist and many taboos exist. At certain times (e.g. village sacrifice ceremonies), outsiders are prohibited to enter the village. Look out for some signs (such as fresh tree leaves hanging in front of the village gate or house). Taking pictures of people or places in hill tribe villages can break a taboo or disturb the spirits so get permission - you may be fined if you don't.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Banlung has an airfield within the town, but all commercial airlines have stopped servicing Ratanakiri and the only flights are with Mission Aviation Fellowship, in a new Australian built Airvan GA-8 (7 seater). They have 2-3 flights most weeks from Phnom Penh, often stopping in Mondulkiri on the way, at around US$120 one way. Priority of bookings is given to aid workers and medical cases.
At Phnom Penh Airport a US$6 departure tax may be levied. Flights are subject to change, so allow for a flexible schedule. Currently the runway is still a gravel strip, but there are plans to extend it and build a concrete runway, which would make cancellations in the wet season less frequent.
Overland - Overland travel to Banlung from Phnom Penh in a single day is now reasonably practical, with buses and minivans servicing the route regularly for R60,000/$15. The road between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng has recently been upgraded and sealed (though an unsealed shortcut south of Kratie is more often used as it saves 100km) and can be negotiated rather quickly, but the road between the Stung Treng junction and Banlung, despite recent improvements, is still rough with many small bridges and dusty or muddy depending on the season.
By boat - A popular way to travel to Banlung involved taking a ferry first to Stung Treng (or Kratie). As of January 2008 these ferries were not running.
Take a boat up the Mekong river to Stung Treng, followed by a car journey to Banlung the next day. After taking a boat, taxi or bus to Stung Treng, take a shared taxi or a van to Banlung. Shared taxi fares are negotiated, but generally much more expensive. The more people taking the taxi, the less money each of you will have to shell out, so taking one of these may only be the best option if you're in a group of three or four.
A ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng costs approximately US$7 and should take about five hours.
