Sfax is a city in Tunisia, located 270 km southeast of Tunis. The city, founded in AD 849 on the ruins of Taparura and Thaenae, is the capital of the Sfax governorate, and a Mediterranean port on the Gulf of Gabes. Sfax has population of 340,000 (2005), and is an industrial center for processing phosphates. The city is often described as Tunisia's Second city, because only Tunis has more inhabitants.
By the end of the 10th century Sfax had become an independent city state. The city was conquered by Roger of Sicily in 1148 and occupied until it was liberated in 1156 by local forces, and was briefly occupied by European forces again, this time by the Spanish, in the 16th century. Sfax became an integral base of the Barbary piracy, prompting an unsuccessful invasion by Venice in 1785. In the late 19th century Sfax and the rest of Tunisia were conquered by France and incorporated into the French empire. During World War II, the Axis powers used the city as a major base until they were defeated by British forces. After World War II, Tunisia was returned to France only to gain independence in 1956.
PLACE TO VISIT
Archaeological Museum, City Hall (Baladiya) (Avenue Habib Bourguiba). 8:30-1pm, 3-6pm. The ground floor of the City Hall hosts an impressive collection of mosaics from the region, in particular the Roman towns of Taparura (where Sfax now is) and Thaenae (now Thyna, 11km west of Sfax). 3 TND.
Kasbah, (Southwest corner of the Medina). The kasbah was a military garrison before and during the French Protectorate (1881-1956). The French influence (buildings, etc.) has been removed and the Kasbah now hosts rooms of displays relating the the industry for which Sfax is famous; construction, metalwork and the famous Bourj and Djenes of Sfax all have their own rooms. Additionally there is a display of religious architecture and some documents in another room, with an underground mosque area also worth a vist. Deinitely a HIGHlight is the view from the top of either of the towers that form part of the Kasbah. 3 TND.
Dar Djellouli, . The Djellouli family has provided Sfax with a number of its governors over the years, particularly during the 1700s and 1800s. Dar Djellouli is also referred to as the Governor's Mansion, and is an example of traditional Medina architecture. It is built around a courtyard that is open to the sky, with two floors of balconies on four sides looking down on it. The rooms open onto these balconies, and house cultural items from the 1800s and even earlier. Costumes from the period can be viewed, as well as examples of cooking, calligraphy, embroidery, perfume distillation and furniture. 3 TND.
Café Diwan, (Built into the Medina ramparts between Bab Diwan and Bab Kasbah). Café Diwan was originally Bourj Al Resace, and a significant military post until the arrival of the French in 1881. The rooftop view of the city, the Taparura project, and the main Azria Synagogue (currently not in use) is aloine worth the visit. Café Diwan is not a museum but a tea shop, which makes it doubly worth the visit. Enjoy a Chicha (Hookah), your choice of tea (Thé al la menthe with pine nuts is recommended) or coffee (espresso, direct or even Café Turc) or coca cola. On the roof you will notice a circular wall, about waist height. This wall was the foundation of a water tower in the late 1800s. On your way out, slip into the circular room with the dome-shaped roof that supported the water tank, and listen to the reverberation as you speak. (Note: pay for you drinks as you leave, and consider leaving your change as a tip.)
WHAT TO DO
Wander around the fascinating Medina (which has an easily mastered and logical layout) where life and business go on much as they have for years and where tourists, although welcome, are few and far between.
Ride to Kerkenna on the ferry, with 8 trips a day costing about 800 millimes each way. In Kerkenna, get a taxi to the Hotel Cercina where you can walk the beach, or sit on their patio and enjoy tea looking over the bay. Check the times of the ferry's return, and make sure you get a taxi back in time! From the Grand Hotel you an also walk the beach, with your destination, the old Bourj, visible in the distance. About 1.5km each way, so give yourselves time to enjoy it. The Roman ruins beside the Bourj are currently fenced off, but there is a good view of them from the wall of the Bourj.
HOW TO REACH
By air - Sfax-Thyna Airport has one flight per week to/from Paris Orly Aiport with Tunisair. You can also reach Sfax by internal flights with Sevenair from Djerba, Tozeur, Tunis or with a Libyan Air or Sevenair flight from Tripoli.
By train - Train connections are available from the train station in the centre of Sfax to most major Tunisian cities.
