Dar es Salaam (Haven of Peace in Arabic) was founded in 1862 by Sultan Seyyid Majid of Zanzibar on the site of the village of Mzizima. Mzizima's history dates back to the time when the Barawa people started to settle and cultivate the area around Mbwa Maji, Magogoni, Mjimwema, Gezaulole and Kibonde Maji Mbagara.
Present day Dar es Salaam's origins have been influenced by myriad of Sultans, the Germans and the British. The city started as a fishing village in the mid 19th century, is now Tanzania's largest city, and has become one of East Africa’s most important ports and trading centers.
With its great atmosphere, mix of African, Muslim, and South Asian influences, picturesque harbour, beaches, chaotic markets, and historical buildings, it is well worth extending your stay beyond the time between flights.
Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's financial and political hub despite having lost its status as official capital to Dodoma in 1973.
Dar es Salaam is certainly not at the top of the list of places to see for most visitors to Tanzania. It's often a necessary stop on their way to Zanzibar, the northern safari circuit or home. That being said, Dar has its charm. Walks around the city center are a great way to get a feel for the culture and Kariakoo market can be an interesting place for the more adventurous. It can also be a good base for visiting some of the nearby sites such as Bagamoyo, Bongoyo and Mbudja Islands, as well as learn to scuba dive or go deep sea fishing. For those looking for something more humanitarian, most international organizations are based in Dar and may be a good starting point if you wish to volunteer.
PLACE TO VISIT
The Zoological Gardens
National Museum
Village Museum
Beaches
Bahari Beach hotel, is about 20km to the north of Dar es Salaam along New Bagamoyo Road. The hotel charges a small fee for non-guests.
Kigamboni and Kipepeo, also called "South Beach", are situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs 100Tsh. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a 5,000Tsh entry fee. 3,000TSh of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for 10,000 to 15,000Tsh depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.
Further south from Kipepeo, 35 km, are Amani and Ras Kutani resorts. These are upscale resorts popular with locals and the ex-pat community. Ras Kutani does not accept children under 6.
WHAT TO DO
For a great day trip, head out to Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 7,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 11,000Tsh and another US$5 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one at 17:00. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (chips, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shoprite at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things. Take a hike around the island, or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are free but a chair cost 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings at the market.
There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. (The only time I've ever heard hip-hop played right before Aqua's "Barbie Girl"; the place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs). California Dreamers is another club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to.
If you like to have a chillout evening, the Mediterraneo Lounge has a large collection of chill-out music. At the Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar Es Salaam.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Tanzania's main airport is located in Dar es Salaam, Julius Nyerere International Airport - (IATA:DAR) (formerly known as Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere International Airport and Dar es Salaam International Airport).
The airport is 10 km from the city center and 20 km from the Msasani Peninsula. Most large hotels offer a pick-up and drop-off service upon request. A taxi from the airport to the city center should cost between 10,000TSh and 20,000TSh, but many will ask for as much as US$40. Prices will be higher at night. If you can't get a decent price, walk to the main road and flag a taxi, it may be cheaper. Do not do this at night. As of June 2008, petrol is about US$1.50/liter and climbing, this in a country where people earn less than $1 a day. Fares may rise quickly. Daladalas are also available if you walk out the the main road. Look for those marked POSTA, which is the main Post Office in the city center. Hitchhiking is uncommon and most drivers will expect some form of payment from foreigners.
By train - There are two trains running out of Dar Es Salaam from different stations. Tanzania Railroad is a train that travels through the center of Tanzania to Dodoma and further West, even up to Mwanza; however, the train tends to be unreliable, not terribly pleasant, and full of thieves. Tourists should try to travel in groups, and/or buy out a first class cabin. Keep the doors and windows locked, especially when sleeping. The train travels at walking pace much of the time, so it is possible to buy fresh fruit, eggs, and other items out of the windows all along the way.
By bus - Bus travel is generally reliable if you pick the right company. It can be somewhat scary as Tanzanians seem to value arriving quickly more than arriving safely ('Mungu akipenda, tutafika' - If god wants it, we shall arrive).
Scandinavia Express used to be quite reliable but has fallen on hard times of late. However, they do travel on a schedule (when in good order) and provide a comfortable ride: some of the buses have air conditioning, and many are 4 seats across instead of the usual 5. Scandinavia run their own bus station in Dar Es Salaam, and tickets should be purchased ahead of time. Note that their cityterminal is far closer to town than central bus station. You can save a few dollars in taxi fares going to hotels in city centre, like those of Libya street area, by using Scandinavian.
