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MARRAKECH TRAVEL GUIDE

Marrakech , known as the "Red City", is an important city / wilaya in Morocco. It has a population of 1,036,500 (as of 2006), and is the capital of the mid-southwestern economic region of Marrakech-Tensift-Al Haouz near the foothills of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.

The town of Marrakech, the origin of its name coming from the Amazigh (Berber) words mur (n) akush, which means "Land of God", is divided into two distinct parts: the Medina, or the historical city, and the new city with two principal districts that are called Gueliz and Hivernage.

Gueliz is the European modern district of the town of Marrakech. Its name comes from the French word “église” some say, because the first monument built there was the Catholic Church Saints Martyrs. But some tend to affirm that the name is rather Berber and comes from the hill of Gueliz.

Marrakesh city has the largest traditional market (souk) in Morocco and also has one of the busiest squares in Africa and the world, Djemaa el Fna. The square bustles with acrobats, story-tellers, water sellers, dancers, and musicians, as well as drug lords by day; By night, the square turns into food stalls, becoming a huge open-air restaurant with busy life. Like many North African and Middle Eastern cities, Marrakech comprises both an old fortified city (the médina) and an adjacent modern city (called Gueliz). It is served by Ménara International Airport (RAK is the code for the airport) and a rail link to Casablanca and the north.

The city is spelled "Marrakech" in French, "Marrakesh" in English, "Marrakesch" in German and "Marakeş" in Turkish.

Marrakesh is the third largest city in Morocco after Casablanca and Rabat. The name Morocco derived from the name of the city of Marrakesh, as the country was known to early travellers as Marrakesh. Prior to the advent of the Almoravids in the 11th century, the area was ruled from the city of Aghmat. The Almoravid leader, Abu-Bakr Ibn-Umar decided Aghmat was becoming overcrowded and chose to build a new capital. He decided to build it in the plains near the Tansift river. He chose the site of Marrakech, because it was in neutral territory between two tribes who were vying for the honor of hosting the new capital. Work started in May 1070, but Abu-Bakr was recalled to the Sahara to put down a rebellion in January 1071 and the city was completed by his deputy and eventual successor Yusuf ibn Tashfin. The city experienced its greatest period under the leadership of Yacoub el Mansour, the third Almohad sultan. A number of poets and scholars entered the city during his reign and he began the construction of the Koutoubia Mosque and a new kasbah.

 

PLACE TO VISIT

Djemma El Fna is the highlight of any Marrakech night. Musicians, dancers, and story tellers pack this square at the heart of the medina, filling it with a cacophony of drum beats and excited shouts. Scores of stalls sell a wide array of Moroccan fare (see the Eat section) and you will almost certainly be accosted by women wanting to give you a henna tattoo. Enjoy the various shows, but be prepared to give some Dirhams to watch. By day it is largley filled with snake charmers and people with monkeys, as well as some of the more common stalls.

The souks (suuqs), or markets of Marrakech, just adjacent to Place Djemma El Fna, are where you can buy most anything. From spices to shoes, jalabas to kaftans, tea pots to tagines and much, much more. Undoubtedly, being a foreigner means you will end up paying higher prices than a native would, but be sure to bargain nonetheless. The sellers here are much less aggressive than say, Egypt or Turkey, so have fun!

Koutoubia mosque, adjacent to Djemma El Fna is named after the booksellers market that used to be located here. It is said that the minaret of the Koutoubia mosque is to Marrakech as the Eiffel Tower is to Paris. The minaret is visible from Gueliz which is connected to the Medina by Avenue Mohammed V. At night, the mosque is beautifully lit.

Saadian Tombs were not discovered until the beginning of the 20th century. They have been preserved just like they were during the glory days of the Saadian rulers. Unlike the El Badi Palace, they were not destroyed-probably for superstitious reasons. The entrance was only blocked so they remained untouched for hundreds of years. Inside you will find an overload of Zelij (Morrocan tiles) and some beautiful decoration. It does not take a lot of time to explore, but it is definitely worth the visit. While here, look for the tombs of Jews and Christians; they are noted by their different markings and direction of the tomb.

Majorelle Gardens in Gueliz has an entrance fee of DH 30 and is more expensive than other attractions. However, it provides an excellent respite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets. The park boasts a collection of plants from across the globe, including what seems like every cactus species on the planet. Get here early to avoid the crowds. Inside the gardens is also the Museum of Islamic Art, for which an additional entrance fee is charged.

Dar Si Saïd Museum, on Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid, is a museum 5 minutes away from Djemma El Fna. Set in an old palace, it houses many different artifacts from Morocco through the ages, such as wood carvings, musical instruments, and weapons. It is dedicated to the Moroccan craft industry of wood, gathering a very beautiful collection of popular art: carpets, clothing, pottery and ceramics. All these objects are regional, coming from Marrakech and all the south, especially from Tensift, High Atlas, Soussthe, Anti Atlas, Bani, and Tafilal.

Ben Youssef Madrassa is one of the largest Madrassa's in the North Africa. It is a school attached to the Ben Youssef Mosque and is home to beautiful art and architecture.

El Bahia palace is an ornate and beautiful palace, popular with guided tours and stray cats. The palace is well worth a visit and gives a great impression of what it must have been like to be a 19th century nobleman in Morocco. There is a nice garden with banana flowers, tranquil courtyards, and other lovely plants. Admission is DH 10.

El Badi palace is a palace now in ruins and inhabited by storks and stray cats. There are some underground passageways to explore. Admission is DH 10. The view from the terrace is majestic.

 

SHOPPING

Along with the major souk adjacent to the Djemaa el Fna, there are a plethora of smaller souks throughout the city where any number of products can be bargained for. Keep an eye out for a wide array of hand-crafted candle-holding lanterns, as well as spectacular displays of local spices.

Marrakech is home to a large tanning industry, and leather goods of high quality can be bought here cheaply. Check out camel leather items especially - jackets, round poufs, and handbags.

Also of interest would be items made of the local cactus silk, which is really rayon a natural fiber made of plant cellelose and produced in Morocco. Rayon holds the chemical dyes well which accounts for the vibrant range of true colors (natural dyes cannot produce a "true"color). On offer are scarves, handbags, tablecloths, bedspreads and throws in stunning colors. Some merchants try to charge a premium price for this "cactus silk".

Be sure to wander round the potters' souk, and look for brightly coloured platters and bowls, as well as tagines in all sizes

Lovely cashmire shawls can also be had for less than a fiver with a little bargaining.

If you cannot stand the the bargaining, there's two government run shops where you can buy handicrafts at fixed prices. Look for boutique d'artisans. One is located near Djemaa el Fna while the other one is in the ville nouvelle.

An option to explore the souks in a more tranquil way is to go during the Friday prayer. Although some shops will be closed, most stay open and are significantly less crowded than at other times.

 

HOW TO REACH

By air - Marrakech-Menara Airport . This international airport is located about 6km (4 mi) and 10-15 minutes away from the city by taxi. Plenty of low cost companies now fly to Marrakech. Some companies fly to Casablanca additionally where a plane change for the 45 minute flight to Marrakech can be made.

The best way, if you do not have too much luggage, is to take a new bus (line 19) that goes over the main points of the City (Place Djemaa L'Fna, Bus station, Gueliz, hotels...). It costs DH 20 one way, DH 30 with return included. You avoid one of a traveller's worst moments, i.e., the hassle of taxi drivers that pester you when you arrive in a new country.

If going from airport by petit taxi, make sure to have the driver use his meter or, better yet, agree on the price beforehand. As you exit the airport terminal, there is a sign which actually gives you an idea of how much the taxi ride should cost. As to whether you can convince or bargain with the driver to use these prices is another matter however. It depends on the number of taxis and potential passengers around. Essentially, you should pay no more than DH 60 from the airport to the centre of the city during the day and DH 90 at night for a petit taxi. The petit taxi's are hatchbacks and generally they take a lower price than the larger grand taxi's. If you press the drivers, these prices are easily obtainable. In this event, don't pay more than DH 100 in the daytime and DH 150 at night.

By train - Train connections are available from the train station, Avenue Hassan II, Casablanca and Rabat and Tangier connect with most domestic rail destinations in the country. There is a train hourly all day. First and second class differ in the seating comfort and with the number of people. Seats are not reserved in second class, but since Marrakech is the first station, you'll find a place if you arrive with time to the station.

Trains arrive from Casablanca around every two hours and regularly from other destinations like Rabat. The train station is located in the recently developed ville nouvelle. Frequent local buses leave from just across the street into the medina and modern tourist area. Petit taxi drivers will also be quick to offer their service, but pay no more than DH 10 - 15 for this short ride during the daytime up until 8pm. After this time, taxi drivers will charge the daytime rate plus 50%.

By bus - There are many long distance bus companies operating within Morocco which serve Marrakech and other cities.

The recommended bus companies for tourists are CTM and Supratours. Other companies do exist, though these two companies are usually your safest options.

Most ALSA (local destination bus company) and private bus lines arrive at the long distance bus station near Bab Doukkala, a 20 minute walk (DH 15 - 20 by petit taxi) from Jema el-Fna. Supratours and Eurolines buses operate from here. It's the place to take the buses from the small companies, that go directly to small destinations.

By taxi - The best option if you want to save time or if you want to go in private. The best way is the big bus. You will find them throughout the city and the airport, they make you discover the city. The taxis are very good and regular, be careful walking through the main square though, its full of them drving about, beeping you out of the way.

 

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