Eritrea is a country in East Africa, bordering the Red Sea, between Djibouti and Sudan, with a long disputed border with Ethiopia.
Eritrea was conquered in 1890 by Italy, who hung onto it until World War II, when they were kicked out by the Brits. Eritrea was awarded to Ethiopia in 1952 as part of a federation. Ethiopia's annexation of Eritrea as a province 10 years later sparked a 30-year struggle for independence that ended in 1991 with Eritrean rebels defeating governmental forces; independence was overwhelmingly approved in a 1993 referendum.
Hopes were high when the new state was born, but a new border war with Ethiopia erupted again in 1998, ending under UN auspices in December 2000. Eritrea currently hosts a UN peacekeeping operation that is monitoring a 25 km-wide Temporary Security Zone on the border with Ethiopia. An international commission, organized to resolve the border dispute, posted its findings in 2002 but final demarcation is on hold due to Ethiopian objections, and the border remains very tense to this day.
Using the war as an excuse, Eritrea's government has devolved into one of the worst police states in the world. No national elections have ever been held, the misnamed People's Front for Democracy and Justice is the only allowed party, dissidents disappear into jails and the country comes in dead last (behind North Korea) in the Press Freedom Index. The country is desperately poor, with half the population subsisting on under a dollar a day, and growth has been crippled by the war and the termination of trade with Ethiopia.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Eritrea's only international airport at present is in the capital Asmara. Lufthansa is the most reliable airline flying 3 times a week into Asmara from Frankfurt. Eritrean Airlines flies twice weekly to/from Frankfurt, Dubai and Jeddah as well as once weekly to/from Rome. Egyptair serves Asmara twice weekly from Cairo. Yemenia Air fly twice weekly from Sanaa. Saudi Arabian Airlines fly twice weekly from Jeddah/Riyadh. The other Eritrean Airline Nasair flies five times weekly to Jeddah as well as twice weekly to Nairobi and Khartoum. There is a 20eur, 20$us airport fee payable upon departure.
By car - You can enter Eritrea driving from Sudan (Kassala border crossing) provided you have a valid certificate of ownership of the vehicle you're driving (no rentals) and all your (including your passengers') passports and visas in order as well as a customs declaration (if necessary). The roads on the borders are very poor so you should be driving a 4WD. The first gas-station entering Eritrea from the Sudanese border is in Tessenei, a distance of about 40 Km. Diesel is more easily available than petrol.
By bus - There are Sudanese pickup taxis running from Kassala in Sudan to the Eritrean border (a half hour away) daily, and Eritrean taxis from the Eritrean border to Tessenei about an hour away (poor road).
The bureaucracy of the border crossings can take hours so start in the morning or early afternoon from Kassala in Sudan as it is not possible to enter Eritrea after dusk (border posts close).
By boat - Ports and harbors: Assab (Aseb), Massawa (Mits'iwa). Sadaka Shipping Lines and Eritrean Shipping Lines serve the route Massawa - Jeddah in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. They serve mainly Muslim pilgrims and it is quite difficult for non-pilgrims to enter or transit the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
STAY SAFE
Watch out for bicycle riders and pedestrians. People don’t look when crossing and bike riding accidents are common. It is a safe city though and you can walk about at night and anywhere in the city and not worry about crime. There are sometimes children that aggressively beg but usually leave you alone if you are stern with them.
RESPECT
Eritreans are polite, hospitable and soft-spoken but due to the language barrier may generally keep their distance from foreigners. If approached by an English speaker, try to maintain an innocent topic of conversation and use universal common sense. Avoid displaying disdain, arrogance or too harsh criticism towards the country, culture, religion or politics of the country. Although most if not all will be more than tolerant of your "mistakes" as you are a passing foreigner. Do not fall prey to those willing to offer you a better exchange rate for your hard currency or some other "shady economic deal". A)
They could be undercover government agents, which can land you in severe trouble with the zero-tolerance Eritrean justice system, or B) Even if they were not, you run the risk of not receiving a fair trade or getting caught by the law which is something you must avoid at all costs in Eritrea. It is rude to take pictures of people or their property without asking for permission. When taking pictures of public buildings beware of government buildings, especially police and military buildings. Taking pictures of these is not always illegal but if done without permission or supervision, it can be viewed as highly suspect and can result in an uncomfortable arrest and interrogation. Ask the closest official (receptionist or police) for permission. Prostitution is legal but only in licensed establishments discretely placed out of the public eye (certain bars, nightclubs, hotels).
Public display of romantic affection is considered immodest and overt flirting with an Eritrean is viewed by the general public as akin to prostitution or soliciting thereof and can be taken as extremely offensive if the person in question or their kin is not involved in such business. Like in many East African and Middle Eastern countries, use of the left hand to greet, eat or hand something to someone is considered very dirty. When handing something over, using both hands is accepted and even seen as respectful, but not using the left hand alone.
Dress code is generally western, women are not required to "cover up" or wear veils, but showing too much skin, both for men and women will earn them very little respect and women (who show too much cleavage, wear too short a skirt/pair of shorts) will be viewed as prostitutes. "Western" (women) are generally allowed more freedom, as they are seen as already "different" from the norm, than Eritrean or Eritrean-looking women, who would be judged badly also for smoking or even riding a bicycle in public. Women do however drive in Eritrea, all vehicles, even military tanks, ships, planes and they command troops, serve in all the ranks of the army and government in the same capacity as men. It is a country undergoing a post-liberation accelerated (and sometimes paradoxical) cultural evolution.
