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WILDERNESS BACKPACKING

Wilderness backpacking is form of self-reliant travel that affords opportunities to see sights available no other way. Carrying everything you'll need to survive for several days in the wilderness isn't everyone's idea of a "vacation", but if if you don't mind including some physical effort and additional inconvenience in your travel time, it's an ideal way to truly "get away from it all", and hopefully see some beautiful – or even spectacular – scenery.

Landscape - Before taking off on a backpacking trip, assess what kind of territory you'll be traveling through. Distances on a map never look that hard to cover, but once you find yourself staring up at a 400-foot ridge standing between you and tonight's camp, it's a different story. Topographic maps will give you a better idea of what you're getting yourself into, as well as being essential for navigation if you're going off-trail. Unless you have an uncanny sense of direction, you'll probably need a compass. GPS can be nifty, but many feel it takes the adventure out of hiking, and it may not always work as well in actual use as the sales pitch suggests.

Climate - Find out what kind of weather you can expect at the time of year you're planning to go. When's the rainy season? What's the temperature range? Keep in mind that going up in altitude is like going up in latitude. Daytime temperatures may be pleasant, but how cold does it get at night?

 

FEES/PERMITS

Check with the local authorities if you'll be using a state/provincial/national park to see what fees there are for use of the park, and for the trails and campsites, if any. In some parts of the world, right to access may give you permission to hike on privately-owned undeveloped land, but elsewhere – especially the highly-territorial United States – be sure to get permission (unless you want to risk prosecution – or gunshot – for trespassing).

 

GET AROUND

Since "get around" means "walk", footwear is one of the most important aspects of backpacking. Traditional hiking boots could kill a small animal just by being dropped on them (empty) from a few feet up, but modern boots can be much lighter, reducing the drag on every step you take. You don't necessarily need to spend hundreds of dollars on state of the art boots, but odds are your favorite athletic shoes or street shoes will leave you very uncomfortable and hold up just as poorly. Stiff soles and plenty of ankle support are a good idea if you're going over any rocks.

But buying a new pair of boots just before your trip is an equally bad idea. Break the boots in, first with short walks, then longer ones. Wear them around for a week, and you'll know where they rub, if you want to put soft insoles in them, etc. They should conform to the shape of your foot, so by the time you're ready to hike, your boots are too. The break-in period also helps your feet get used to the boots, building up thin callouses in the spots where they rub a little.

If the terrain is especially challenging, or if your knees aren't what they used to be, you might benefit from using a hiking stick or a pair of trekking poles (like cross-country ski poles, but without the skis). They aren't just for the feeble; they can improve your balance and increase your pace by adding some power from your arms to your propulsion. A sturdy chest-high branch (not pulled from a standing tree) will do, or you can buy a telescoping staff or set of poles. Some of them can double as a camera monopod. And while this usage isn't recommended, you'd probably rather face an angry cougar with a pole in your hand than without one.

 

WEAR

The kind and quantity of clothing to wear depends heavily on the location and season. The key strategy in all but the hottest climates is to layer your clothing. If the temperature is going to vary between night and day (and it probably will), carrying a set of clothing for the warm times and another set for the cool times will take up extra space and add extra weight. Instead bring clothes cool enough for daytime hiking, and bring extra layers to put on over them when it cools off after dark. "Convertible" slacks are handy in warmer weather, allowing you to zip off the legs and turn them into shorts when the day gets warm, or back into long pants for wading through prickly plants.

Packing at least one complete change of clothes ensures that if any item you're wearing gets soaked (by rain, a misstep crossing a stream, sweat, whatever) you'll have another to wear instead. This is especially important for socks, which are both the most likely item of clothing to get wet and the most important to keep dry. Spare boots aren't practical, but a pair of cheap flip-flops or loose-fitting light-weight shoes will give your feet a chance to breathe when you're not on the trail, and give you something to wear after you accidentally dunk your foot in a pond while collecting water.

Although cotton is normally comfy, park rangers call it "death cloth". It soaks up water many times its weight and hence its drying time is very slow, making it a less-than-ideal choice for undershirts and underwear you'll be wearing next to your sweaty skin; synthetic fabrics such as capilene will "wick" moisture away from your skin, and can better keep you both cool and dry. Many discount stores will also sell suitable shirts in their sports department if you don't want to drop the money on the specialty brands. Cotton also doesn't keep you warm when it gets wet; wool is a better material for your socks and outerwear. Cotton t-shirts as a middle layer or for sleeping in are fine.

Do with this information what you wish: Humans in many cultures across countless centuries have lived without freshly laundered underwear every morning. Also, keep in mind that the kind of underwear you normally wear may not be ideal for backpacking; women will probably prefer a "sport" bra that provides more support and no hooks in the back, and men may find that briefs provide less opportunity for skin-to-skin chafing and bunched up fabric than

 

CARRY

There are two basic kinds of backpacks used in wilderness travel: internal frame and external frame.

The external frame is the more traditional variety, consisting of a metal frame that's strapped to your hips and shoulders, and which your sleeping bag, tent, and the fabric pack itself are strapped to. They're better for keeping your gear organized and accessible, and a bit cooler to wear, because they leave small gaps for air to move between you and the pack. They're the best option for the heaviest loads.

Internal frame packs have become very popular in the last couple decades. They use a flexible plastic frame built into the fabric of the pack itself, which allows you to carry more of the weight closer to your body, improving your balance. One trade-off is the lack of back ventilation. They also tend to have fewer internal compartments, with everything stuffed together inside, making it harder to get at things on the trail.

With either kind of pack, be sure to adjust the straps to put as much weight as possible on your hips, rather than your shoulders. The shoulder straps should mostly be keeping the pack from falling backward, not actually supporting its weight. This will save lots of wear and tear on your back and shoulders, making for a much less painful trip.

Some people prefer to bring along at least one of anything they might need, and others opt to travel more lightly, giving up convenience and comfort for mobility. But if your pack weighs more than a quarter of your body weight, it's too heavy.

 

STAY HEALTHY

Take care of your feet: they're what's getting you home. If you start feeling "hot spots" on them, take care of them quickly before they develop into blisters. Moleskin offers the best protection, but if you don't have that, adhesive bandages or even tape will help protect these spots from friction.

Protect your exposed skin as well. You don't need to be sunbathing to need sunscreen. You'll be sweating, so apply waterproof "sport" sun lotion to anything that's going to be in the sun. A light-colored hat with a brim reduces the UV exposure further, and is essential if you have thin hair.

Mosquitoes, flies, and other insects can carry various unpleasant diseases; they can also be detrimental to your mental health. Mosquitoes in particular are most common around water (where they breed), in the evening twilight, and in heavy woods that resemble twilight. Liberal application of DEET-based insect repellent is your first, best line of defense. But even this won't stop them from swarming around you and in your face; a head net (best worn over a hat with a brim) provides a small DMZ that may help with your peace of mind, and is small and light enough to be packed "just in case".

You don't want to go overboard with medical supplies, but some first-aid gear is a worthwhile precaution. If you're lucky, it'll be the one thing you brought that you didn't "need", but if you're not, you'll definitely regret leaving the essentials behind. Adhesive bandages, moleskin, disinfectant, and aspirin/Ibuprofin are the bare essentials. As makeshift bandages (and dozens of other uses) hankies are worth the extra ounce in your pack.

Even if there are maintained outhouses along the trail (again: don't assume there will be), you shouldn't count on them having toilet paper; bring a partial roll from home. If you're unsure about the availability of facilities, bring a garden trowel so you can dig and then cover your own single-dump latrine (well off the trail and far away from any water supplies).

 

STAY SAFE

If there's mobile-phone service in the area you're hiking (and don't assume there will be), bringing the phone along (turned off, to preserve both the battery and the atmosphere) is a reasonable precaution in case of emergency. If you get a signal in a remote area, the dispatcher that happens to pick up your emergency call may have no idea where you are, so explain clearly.

Wild animals in many places pose little real threat to backpackers, but some – a human-fed bear in a national park, a cow moose protecting her calf, a hungry panther, or a venomous snake – may be quite dangerous. Check with local wildlife experts about what to be wary of, and how to protect yourself.

Bear encounters

Here are some simple tips to remember before heading into areas of known bear activity:

Research bears before departing on your journey. Learn about their behavior patterns and characteristics.

Know your bears: Grizzly bears are identified the hump behind their neck. This is the highest point on their body. The area above the hind legs is the highest point on a black bear. Grizzly attacks on humans are mostly defensive, while black bear attacks on humans are often predatory (though they are rarer).

Be aware of bear behavior. A bear standing on hind legs is usually doing so to get a better look. Swinging its head from side to side or turning its side to you usually implies it is seeking a way out. If a bear pops its jaws aggressively, it may charge. Bears often make several bluff charges, before actually trying to knock down the threat.

Carry bear pepper spray and keep it on hand.

To avoid encounters:

Do not cook near your camp.

Wrap all food in plastic and store away from the camp.

If you come across bear tracks, bear cubs or a partly eaten carcass, assume that an adult bear is not far away. Leave the area immediately.

Make noise on the trail. The worst possible way to encounter a bear is to take it by surprise.

If you encounter a bear:


Don't run. Bears are like dogs and will follow a running person.

Do not stare into a bears eyes as this is sign of aggression.

Talk to the creature in a calm voice so you can be identified as human, not prey. Do not imitate bear growls, shout or wave your arms around frantically.

Slowly back away from the bear.

If the bear follows, stand firm, but act in a calm non-threatening way.

If there are several people, group together to present a single unit.

If you're carrying bear spray, get it ready. Ensure that the the nozzle is pointed in the direction of the bear, and check that the wind direction will not carry the spray back onto you.

Finally, if a bear attacks and you are sure it is defensive, play dead. Lay face down and place arms tightly over the neck. Keep legs together. The bear may still charge, but with a diminished threat it less likely to persist. Stay perfectly still until you are sure that the bear has left the area.

If a bear makes a silent attack without first displaying signs of stress, assume it is a predatory attack. Immediately use a pepper spray, but if this fails, fight back aggressively using anything at hand, such as a stone, a sharp object, a pan or a stout piece of wood. For extra effect, target punches and strikes at the nose and eyes.

 

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