Seattle, Washington, is the largest city in the Pacific Northwest. Located between Puget Sound and Lake Washington in King County, of which it is the county seat, and overlooking Elliott Bay, Seattle is nicknamed The Emerald City. The city is a damp green gem, with an abundance of evergreen trees throughout, and spectacular views of the Cascade mountains to the east and the Olympic mountains to the west. Known for being the home of the Space Needle, Microsoft, Nordstrom, Amazon.com, Nintendo of America, Starbucks, Costco, and the University of Washington, Seattle is also the home of a vibrant arts scene and an excellent park system.
Seattle was founded on the rough, physical industries of fishing, logging and coal mining, with San Francisco as her primary customer. Boeing was founded in 1916 and, as natural resources were depleted, grew to be Greater Seattle's primary industry. The region's strong economic dependence on Boeing gave the oil recession and cancellation of the SST (Supersonic Transport) in the early '70s a grim effect. Over the last twenty-five years, the area has become less seedy and more developed with the massive influx of Microsoft money (and other software and biotech proceeds), but Pioneer Square is still the original Skid Row. (Yesler Way was a "Skid Road" for logs skidded downhill using dogfish oil to Henry Yesler's lumber mill).
Seattle is also substantially influenced by the presence of the University of Washington (the largest single campus in the state and recipient of over $1 billion in research grants annually), as well as multiple smaller colleges and universities. Seattle is also the center for financial, public health, and justice systems in the northwestern part of the USA.
PLACE TO VISIT
Pike Place Market, An enormous working public market and popular tourist draw. Much good food to be had. The selection of fresh flowers and vegetables is excellent. And yes, they really do throw the fish around. Look for big blond Johnny Hahn on his portable piano, or one of the other regular street musicians on a more conventional street instrument. Leave the more trafficked areas behind and go downstairs to explore the creepy, dusty corridors full of obscure little shops. The weird, cramped Parrot Store even further downstairs (on 1st Avenue) is worth the $0.50 admission if you like parrots.
Seattle Art Museum, Tue-Sun 10 AM - 5 PM, Thu/Fri until 9 PM, closed Mon. The museum's recent physical expansion, coupled with an aggressive campaign to expand the collection, now displays an good overview assortment of art from around the world. Though the permanent exhibitions only occasionally delve deeply into a specific subject (such as the enormous variety of pieces in the porcelain room), extensive special exhibitions fill the gap. Suggested admission: $13 adults, $10 seniors (62 and over), $7 students with ID and youth 13–17, Children 12 and under free. Some special exhibitions charge an additional fee. Admission to the museum is free for everyone on the first Thursday of each month.
Safeco Field, Just south of Pioneer Square, Safeco Field, home to the Seattle Mariners, is one of the finest ballparks in the country. Right field bleacher seats enjoy a panoramic view of downtown and Elliott Bay, and the stadium offers anything from traditional ballbark dogs and macrobrews to fine gourmet fare and local beers. There couldn't be a better way to spend a summer evening in Seattle.
The Seattle Public Library's Central Library, A dramatic glass and steel structure in the heart of downtown Seattle, designed by Rem Koolhaas, that opened in May 2004. This is not an average public library; it's worth a separate Wikipedia article. Seattle Public Library's neighborhood branches are good, too, but not tourist attractions.
Smith Tower Observation Deck, The Smith Tower (built in 1914) was Seattle's first skyscraper. Take the attendant-operated elevator to the observation deck on the 35th floor (and watch 33 office lobbies pass by through the translucent doors). From the observation deck, you'll find views of Elliot Bay, the mountains, the sports stadiums, downtown, Pioneer Square and other neighborhoods, and - yes - the Space Needle. The interior of the 35th floor contains the Chinese Room, with an ornate carved ceiling and a number of decorative flourishes imported from China in the early 20th century. Entry is $5-7.5. The observation deck isn't open every day, check the schedule beforehand, or stop by and see if they're open when you're in the neighborhood. edit
Columbia Center, Monday-Friday 8:30 AM - 4:30 PM, closed weekends. The second tallest building on the West Coast and the tallest in Seattle has its own 73rd floor observation deck. Great views from the top. Arguably a better (and definitely cheaper!) view than offered by the Space Needle, though it doesn't cover a full 360 degrees and the space is shared with the city traffic monitoring center. This building isn't well known as a tourist attraction, so there is little to no line to get to the top. Occasional closures due to private events or security alerts. $5 adults, $3 students.
Pioneer Square. Pioneer Square proper is just a small corner park that's often occupied by homeless folks, but generally safe during the day.
Hing Hay Park, A small park in the center of Chinatown. Though you're not too likely to see old folks doing tai chi or playing checkers, it still has character.
Seattle Buddhist Church. In the summer the community hosts a Japanese bon odori festival on the street out front.
Wing Luke Asian Museum, 719 S King St, The first Smithsonian affiliate in the Pacific Northwest, this museum features exhibits and programs related to pan-Asian American art, history, and culture as well as historic immersion and neighborhood walking tours.
Northwest Seaport/Maritime Heritage Center Home to a number of historic ships, including a schooner, a tugboat, a fireboat, a lightship, and a steamer, along with several others. The Center for Wooden Boats
Center for Wooden Boats, A intriguing museum where you can learn about Maritime culture and experience sailing traditional wooden boats. The center's programs allow you to get a hands-on feel, putting in control of crafting and sailing your own wooden craft.
South Lake Union Discovery Center, Daily, 11AM-6PM. An introduction to the neighborhood, with displays explaining the history of South Lake Union. There is also a model of the whole neighborhood in the building.
Cal Anderson Park is a newly renovated park near Broadway and E Pine St that is very popular on sunny days. It includes a signature fountain and pond, a basketball court, tennis and softball fields, and a playground. Great for peoplewatching, and you can often see groups of people doing activities varying from hackeysack to drum circles to freeze tag to twirling around with colorful scarves.
Volunteer Park Designed by Fredrick Law Olmsted, this is the largest park in Capitol Hill and is the site of a botanical conservatory and the Seattle Asian Art Museum (above). Bruce Lee and his son Brandon are buried in the adjacent Lakeview Cemetery.
Water Tower, at Prospect St. park entrance. 10 AM - sunset. The 1906 tower at the highest point of Capitol Hill has an observation deck at the top, with views from the Cascades to the Olympics interspersed with a series of panels explaining the history of Seattle's Olmstead-designed park system. The views are somewhat obstructed by metal grates, but the clever photographer can work around them. No elevator - the only way up is the staircase wound around the water tank, seven stories high. Free
A Jimi Hendrix statue rocks out on the sidewalk at the NE corner of E Pine Street and Broadway, though there's no particular historical connection between the location and the man. It is located in front of Everyday Music (a music store), but the statue predated the store.
Museum of History and Industry Open daily 10 AM to 5 PM, first Thursday of every month until 8 PM. The museum focuses on the history of Seattle and the greater Puget Sound region, from pre-European settlement through the rise of today's major local companies such as Boeing and Microsoft. Admission: $7 adults, $5 children and seniors.
Washington Park Arboretum, Open daily, dawn to dusk. The Arboretum is a 230-acre park additionally serving as a botanical garden and horticultural research center, with thousands of trees and plants from temperate climates represented. An extensive network of walking trails covers the park. The Visitor's Center, near the northeast corner of the park, is open from 10 AM to 4 PM daily, and has limited parking available. Guided tours are offered on the first and third Sundays of every month, and free trail maps highlighting the major parts of the collection are available at any time.
The Viewpoint at Admiral- Some of the best views of the Seattle skyline are from West Seattle and the Viewpoint at Admiral is the best of the best. Coming over the West Seattle Bridge, take the Admiral exit and proceed up the hill. Just before the top of the long climb there's a pullout on the right and a fenced viewing area. Yo can't miss it as there are usually people there. Bring your camera.
Columbia City – Once a forgotten part of the city left for decay, Columbia City has been revitalized in recent years. Known mostly only by locals, Columbia City is a quiet gem that offers great restaurants, bars, live entertainment, movies, art galleries, and shops. Also, be sure to explore the Columbia City Library, a recently updated Carnegie library.
Seward Park – The entire park is a large peninsula that is surrounded by Lake Washington. Kids activities in the summer, great scenery, and a 2 and half mile paved level path that circles the whole peninsula, are a few of the attractions.
Waiting for the Interurban is a statue of five people (and a dog) waiting for the trolley that has not existed since the 1930s. The statue is frequently clothed by local residents. There was a time when this work was considered offbeat, imagine that! N. 34th St. at Fremont Ave., at the north approach to the Fremont Bridge.
The Fremont Rocket, a 53' Cold War rocket improved with neon space blasters and a smoke generator in the engine bay, towers over the corner of N. 35th St. and Evanston Ave.
The Fremont Troll (under the Aurora Bridge, officially called the "George Washington Memorial Bridge" but no one will know what you're talking about if you call it that.) The Troll is a concrete statue eating a full size Volkswagen Bug. It even gets its own street name - just off of N. 36th St. on Troll Ave.
The bronze statue of Lenin peers out over the street below, oblivious to the continuing controversy over its display. It was salvaged and brought over from Slovakia, and went up in 1995 at N. 36th St. and Evanston Ave.
QFC Supermarket. The thing to see here is the gigantic blue neon sign proclaiming the neighborhood's name. It originally said "FOOD GIANT", the name of the store, but after it was bought by the QFC chain, it was slated to be removed. The neighborhood fought to keep it, and it has now become (perhaps for lack of anything grander) the local landmark.
Gas Works Park, or "Gasworks", as locals call it, prominently features the rusting, hulking remains of the city's old gasworks piping and machinery -- as well as a solitary bump of a hill offering the ideal spot for kite flying and views across the lake of sailboats, float planes landing, and downtown Seattle at sunset.
Tai Chi, On most Sunday mornings, groups of people practice tai chi or assorted other martial arts in the Southeast quadrant of the Meridian park.
Greenlake Park, A significant feature of the neighborhood. Includes a loop walk around Greenlake frequented by cyclists, runners, rollerbladers, and walkers. The lake is swimmer friendly. Algae growth and closures were sometimes a problem before 2004 when the City of Seattle performed a comprehensive cleanup. It is now one of the cleanest public swimming areas in the Seattle area.
WHAT TO DO
Seafair is in July and early August. Neighborhood events such as parades and street fairs run throughout the festival, with the downtown Torchlight Parade in late July. Seafair culminates in early August when hydroplane races and the Blue Angels bring loud, fast boats and planes to Lake Washington.
Bumbershoot A music and arts festival, held on Labor Day weekend (beginning of September) in the Seattle Center, featuring dozens of local and world-class musical acts.
Northwest Folklife Festival A more low-key and global version of Bumbershoot, held in the Seattle Center on Memorial Day weekend (end of May). Even more important - it's free ($10 donation per person per day requested at the entries - but not required).
Hempfest A two-day cannabis festival in mid-August. Held at Myrtle Edwards park on the Seattle waterfront, its the largest marijuana rally in the world and the biggest annual political event in Washington. Features political speakers, vendors, food, several stages with many bands, and lots of open pot smoking (especially at 4:20)! It is a demonstration for the political reform and the legalization of marijuana.
Mountain biking. The best riding in Seattle is underneath I-5 between Eastlake and Capital Hill at the Colonnade . A little further out, try riding "The Tapeworm" in Philip Arnold Park in Renton, southeast of Seattle. Other great trails are in this park, as well.
Burke Gilman Trail. 26-mile paved path dedicated to non-motorized travel. Goes from Golden Gardens park, on Puget Sound near the Locks, to Bothell Landing where it connects to Sammamish River Trail, which goes to Marymoor Park (in Redmond).
Waterfront Activities Center, Canoe rentals. Parking sucks except after noon on Saturdays. Paddle across the Lake Washington Ship Canal into the Arboretum and watch ducks, geese, swans, random migratory birds, and lots of other boats. If you're an experienced sailor, you can also rent a sailboat after a checkout with their staff. Open to the public ($7.50/hr) and students ($4/hr)
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Seattle-Tacoma International Airport or just "Sea-Tac Airport", (IATA: SEA), located in the city of SeaTac, connects Seattle to all regions of the world, with especially frequent transpacific routes. The airport is about a 25-minute drive from downtown Seattle when there isn't traffic.
By train - Amtrak provides service from all along the west coast. The Amtrak Cascades runs four trains a day between Seattle and Portland (two run between Seattle and Eugene, Oregon, via Portland) and one a day to Vancouver, British Columbia. The Cascades corridor service is quicker and much more reliable than the long-distance Coast Starlight, which can be delayed for hours on the long (over a day) trip from Los Angeles, California. Additionally, the Empire Builder provides daily service to Chicago via Minneapolis and Glacier National Park. Unlike the other three Amtrak transcontinental trains further south, the Builder tends to stick fairly closely to schedule.
By car - Interstate Highway 5 (I-5) cuts through the middle of Seattle north to south. Interstate 90 (I-90) runs from the I-5 interchange in Seattle all the way to Boston. Interstate Highway (I-405) runs parallel to I-5 on the east side of Lake Washington. Be aware however, that Seattle is a city known for terrible traffic (third worst in the nation behind Los Angeles and New York), especially around rush hour, so be ready for crawling along slowly as you enter the city.
By bus - Greyhound, Seattle's Greyhound bus station is located on Stewart St. at the northeast edge of the downtown core.
Quick Shuttle, Runs between Seattle and Vancouver, BC. Stops in Downtown Seattle (outside the Best Western at 200 Taylor Ave N) and SeaTac Airport (at the main terminal near south end of baggage claim, outside door 00, bays 11-16). Fares from Vancouver to Downtown Seattle are $36 one-way, $65 round-trip; from Vancouver to SeaTac, fares are $49 one-way, $87 round-trip.
By boat - Washington State Ferries, - Connect downtown Seattle to Bainbridge Island, to Bremerton, and to Vashon Island, and connect West Seattle to Vashon Island and to Southworth (Kitsap Peninsula). All ferries are for both vehicles and passenger except the ferry between downtown Seattle and Vashon Island.
Victoria Clipper high speed catamaran passenger ferries, connect Seattle to Victoria, British Columbia (Canada) and Seattle to the San Juan Islands.
