Copper Canyon is a canyon system in the Sierra Tarahumara in the southwestern part of the state of Chihuahua in Mexico. The system of canyons here is larger and deeper than the Grand Canyon in the neighboring United States, although the Grand Canyon is larger overall than any of the individual canyons of the Copper Canyon system. The Copper Canyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Though the area would be Mexico's star national park, it thus far has no official status as a park as efforts to make it so have been hampered by disagreements between loggers and the native Raramuri.
This area is rich in biodiversity, cultural history, and is the site of a growing tourist infrastructure. The town of Creel is probably the most popular gateway to the canyonlands. But the town of Hidalgo de Parall to the south of Chihuahua City is a good alternative and is useful for exploring the largely overlooked Sinforosa Canyon.
Within the canyons lie the towns of Batopilas and Urique. Life moves slower in these towns, and it can be hard to imagine you are in the same country that counts Mexico City, Acapulco, and Cancun among its attractions. Shops and restaurants tend to be simple affairs that open late and close early. That does not prevent them from being very charming and the small towns in the canyons are great places to slow down and unwind.
There are historic Catholic churches often run by Jesuit missionaries from other parts of the Latin World. But the real attraction of the canyonlands is the natural splendor of the area. There are numerous waterfalls and hot springs hidden away in the backcountry. These are reached by hiking, horseback, or guided treks with burros. Camping out under the stars is wonderful on the countless sandbars that line the area rivers. The area does see other travelers and tourists but is hardly overrun. Rather, the small towns seem to have the right balance; enough other visitors so you can meet hiking partners and put together expeditions. But not so many that getting away from all traces of civilization is anywhere near difficult.
PLACE TO VISIT
Raramuri Indians - Known in Spanish as the Tarahumara, they are among the largest and most traditional native American societies in all of North America. They are known for their running abilities. They are shy quiet people and do not like to have their photos taken due to religious beliefs.
Candameña Canyon - The least touristed and least explored of the seven canyons of the park.
Piedra Volada Falls - Highest waterfall in Mexico, at 463 meters.
WHAT TO DO
There are numerous hot springs in the area. The most developed and well known are the Recohuata (Recowata) Hot springs near Creel which have been channeled into a series of concrete pools. The area is clean and well maintained and while developed it has a very nice rustic charm that blends well with the natural beauty of the area. Lesser known and undeveloped are the Basirecota Hot Springs down the canyon from the Cusarare area. These springs are much hotter than the ones at Recohuata. Farthest off the beaten path and probably nicest of all are the Owerabo hot springs deep within the Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon). These are undeveloped and form natural pools; they also mix with a waterfall that plunges down into the area from the cliffs above.
STAY SAFE
In the more remote and rugged canyonlands hiring a local guide is strongly recommended as the landscape and climate are harsh and unforgiving of errors. In addition this is an area of drug cultivation, and unaccompanied American tourists (usually groups of motorcyclists) have disappeared in the past, presumably killed by narcotics traffickers. The area south of Batopilas towards Durango is an especially intense zone of narco activity.
HOW TO REACH
By train - The Chihuahua al Pacífico Railroad, known as El Chepe, is a rail line that runs from the Pacific coast at Los Mochis to the city of Chihuahua, passing through the canyonlands. While the train ride is lauded as one of the most spectacular in the world, the reality is that the really scenic parts of the journey are between El Fuerte and Creel, especially between El Fuerte and Bahucivo where the train rapidly ascends many thousands of feet. The route from Los Mochis headed eastwards is more scenic because the westward train often passes through the most scenic areas after nightfall. This is really only an issue in the winter when days are short or if the 2nd class train is running way behind schedule. Regardless, neither direction offers direct views of the canyon itself. First and second class are available in separate trains, with the first class train leaving earlier. First class is mostly for foreign tourists and costs twice the rate of 2nd class, but allows you to hop on and off, whereas 2nd class tickets must be entirely used up in one day. 1st class tickets should be purchased in advance through a travel agency to avoid disappointment, while 2nd class tickets can be purchased on the train from the conductor.
By bus - Copper Canyon is well served by bus service. Buses run from El Paso-Juarez to Chihuahua ($25USD) and from Ojinaga-Presidio to Chihuahua ($12USD) regularly. From Chihuahua you can continue on by bus to Creel ($20USD) or transfer to the train.
By car - If you have your own private vehicle driving on the Mexican toll roads is very easy, and corruption appears to be a minor issue in Chihuahua outside of the Juarez area.
