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BIRMINGHAM TRAVEL GUIDE

Birmingham , in the West Midlands, is Britain's second city with the largest population after London. Birmingham (the h is silent, and in the local dialect the g is hard, as in Birming-gam) was at the heart of the UK's industrial revolution, and its wealth was built upon the multitude of trades that were spawned. This led to a massive canal network, with more miles of canals than Venice (though they're very different types of canal).

Much of the city centre was destroyed during the Second World War, and the replacement buildings added little to the city. However, since the 1990s, Birmingham has been undergoing a radical change and many of the post war buildings have been replaced. The majority of the city centre is now pedestrianized, and the canals cleaned up to make for attractive walkways. Locals credit the City Council for the recent transformation, as the city retains its industrial heritage while now appearing modern and forward looking.

The city's notable associations are as diverse as HP Sauce, Tony Hancock, Cadbury's chocolate, The Lunar Society (whose members included James Watt and Matthew Boulton), Black Sabbath, the Spitfire and the Mini (car, not skirt).

Birmingham has many literary associations - not only JRR Tolkien, but also Washington Irving, who wrote Rip Van Winkle while lodging here with his sister's family, and Conan Doyle, who bought a violin in Sherlock Street while a medical student in Birmingham. The authors Jim Crace, Judith Cutler and David Lodge are also residents.

The nearby locations of Shropshire, Warwick, and Stratford-Upon-Avon provide more of the stereotypical images of "olde" England. However, Birmingham has many of its own tourist attractions, has an extremely lively night life, and the shopping is arguably now the best outside of London.

PLACE TO VISIT

Aston Hall, closed until summer 2009 for a £10 million makeover, though the exterior can still be viewed. Restored Jacobean mansion built between 1618 and 1635, containing period rooms and artwork. Cannon damage from the English Civil War is still visible. The Hall was visited by Arthur Conan Doyle and Washington Irving, inspiring the latter's 'Bracebridge Hall'. Aston Hall by Candlelight is a popular Christmas event that takes place every two years (even numbers) where the whole grounds are lit by candles for 17th-century festivities (fee charged). Free entrance.

Barber Institute of Fine Arts, University of Birmingham, Edgbaston B15 2TS (on the University of Birmingham campus, off Edgbaston Park Rd, train to University or #61, #62 or #63 bus), ☎ +44 121 414 7333 (info@barber.org.uk, fax: +44 121 414 3370), . M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. Small gallery with an excellent permanent collection, including many pre-Raphaelites. Good Britain Guide gallery of the year 2004. Free (donations welcome). (52.449,-1.927)

Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery, Chamberlain Square B3 3DH (Central), ☎ +121 303 2834 (bmag_enquiries@birmingham.gov.uk), . M-Th Sa 10AM-5PM, F 10:30AM-5PM, Su 12:30PM-5PM.. Large museum with some local history, several temporary exhibitions and large permanent collection. Includes the Gas Hall and Waterhall Gallery of Modern Art. Free (donations welcome). (52.479,-1.903)

Cadbury World, Linden Rd, Bournville B30 2LU (train to Bournville), ☎ +44 845 450 3599, . Opening times vary enormously but tend to be daily 10AM-4PM in the spring, summer and autumn. Huge chocolate factory south of the city centre. Tour includes the history of chocolate and the Cadbury company, plus a brief look at some of the factory floor. Some free chocolate, plus relatively cheap mis-shapes in the shop. £12.50 (concessions £9.95, children £9.50. Combined train and entry tickets available). (52.428,-1.934)

IKON Gallery,Tu-Su 11AM-6PM. Small gallery with two or three temporary modern and conceptual art installations. Excellent cafe (see below). Free (donations welcome). (52.477,-1.912)

Sarehole Mill, Apr-Oct, T-Su 11:30AM-4PM (closed Mondays except Bank Holidays). Built in 1765, Sarehole Mill is a fine example of one of more than fifty water mills that existed in Birmingham at one time. Matthew Boulton used the Mill for making buttons and for metal rolling until he moved his operations to Soho in 1761. In the late 1890s Sarehole was the childhood haunt of Hobbit author J.R.R. Tolkien, and famously influenced 'The Shire' in The Lord of the Rings. Free entrance. (52.4344,-1.8561)

Soho House, 8 Apr-29 Oct, Tu-Su 11:30AM-4PM (closed Mondays except Bank Holidays). The elegant home of industrial pioneer Matthew Boulton, who lived at the house from 1766 to 1809. Here, he met with some of the most important scientists, engineers and thinkers of his time - the Lunar Society. Free entrance. (52.5000,-1.9225)

Thinktank, Millennium Daily 10AM-5PM (last admission 4PM). Science museum with lots of hands-on activities, vehicles and industrial machines, however it must be noted that the activities all smell of their popularity. IMAX cinema (see Cinema section) in the same building. £6.95 (concessions £5, children £4.95. Family and IMAX combination tickets available).

Birmingham Botanical Gardens & Glasshouses, M-Sa 9AM-7PM, Su 10AM-7PM (Closes at 5PM or dusk Oct-Mar). Large botanical gardens with a huge range of plants and workshops throughout the year. £6.10 (concessions £3.60, family tickets available).

Birmingham Nature Centre, Daily 10AM-5PM Apr-Oct, Sa Su 10AM-4PM Nov-Mar. Six-acre centre with lots of animals and birds, including deer, otters, owls and two rare Red Pandas. £1.70 (concessions £1.10, children free). (52.4505,-1.9104)

Cannon Hill Park, P Well-maintained park with flowerbeds, tennis, bowling and water features. Contains tea rooms and the Midlands Arts Centre. Free.

Lickey Hills Country Park, Popular park (heathland, coniferous forest and deciduous forest) covering over 200 hectares with a visitor centre, pub and golf course. Best visited in the spring (for bluebells) or autumn (for bilberries and turning leaves). Free.

National Sea Life Centre, Daily 10AM-6PM (last admission 4PM M-F, 5PM Sa Su). Large sea life centre with a multitude of aquatic animals, including piranhas, turtles, sea horses, rays and otters. Feeding demonstrations throughout the day. £9.95 (concessions £6.95, family tickets available).

RSPB Sandwell Valley, Tu-F 9AM-5PM, Sa Su 10AM-5PM (closes at dusk in winter). A bird reserve on the border with Sandwell which organises regular guided walks, talks and family activities. free entrance. (52.5259,-1.9719) edit

Sutton Park, Enormous (over 900 hectare) park including heathland, wetland, marshes, woodland and lakes. Designated an English Nature National Nature Reserve in 1997. Lots of activities on offer including golf, angling, cycling and bird watching. Free.

Woodgate Valley Country Park, 450-acre meadow, hedgerow and woodland park containing Woodgate Valley Urban Farm and Hole Farm Trekking Centre. Best visited in spring and summer when there are hundred of wild flowers and butterflies. Free.

Birmingham Cathedral M-F 7:30AM-6:30PM (5PM from late Jul to early Sep), Sa Su 8:30AM-5PM. Church of England cathedral, built between 1709 and 1715 and the centre of the Diocese of Birmingham. Grade 1 listed building in the UK, designed as a parish church in the Baroque style by Thomas Archer. Contains four spectacular pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows.

Birmingham Central Mosque, Daily noon-30 minutes after Isha (exact time of Isha varies with the seasons). Built in 1969, Birmingham was the second purpose-built mosque in the UK (the first was Woking). The working capacity is 2500, though this is expanded during special events such as Eid. Tour groups should book at least two weeks in advance.

Birmingham Central M Th from 7:15AM, Tu W F from 7:30AM, Sa from 9:30AM, Su from 8:30AM. Large modern orthodox synagogue, popular with students.

Birmingham Peace Pagoda, . The pagoda is designed as symbol of peace, compassion and the noble exemplary qualities of the Buddha.

St Martin in the Bull Ring, between the Bull Ring shopping complex and the Bull Ring markets. 10am-5pm. St. Martin is the parish church of Birmingham, or "The Cathedral of the Bull Ring", as some would say. The first church was probably Norman, but was rebuilt in the 13th century. As it stands today, most of the church dates from 1875, though inside you can see the 1325 effigy of the Lord of the Manor Sir William de Bermingham. The church is a Grade II* listed building in the UK.

HOW TO REACH

By plane - Birmingham International Airport (IATA: BHX) (ICAO: EGBB), is a major airport situated just outside the city, in Solihull, about 8 miles east of central Birmingham, serving the city and the rest of the West Midlands region with frequent domestic and international flights. There are several direct arrivals a day from all major UK and European destinations, and one or two from more far-flung places such as Delhi, Dubai, Islamabad, Luxor, New York and Toronto.

A free Air-Rail Link connects the airport Passenger Terminals with Birmingham International Rail Station between 05:15 and 02:00; it runs every two minutes and the journey time is less than two minutes. From the Birmingham International Rail Station trains run to New Street Station every 5-15 minutes from around 6:15 (Su 8:45) to 23:15. The journey takes 10-20 minutes depending on whether you get an express or local (stopping) service and costs £3 one way.

By train - Birmingham is a major hub of Britain's rail network. The main station is New Street, with Snow Hill and Moor Street carrying significantly fewer services, but include superior service from London Marylebone station. New Street also has faster, but more expensive, services to London Euston. New Street and Moor Street are a 5 minute walk apart, and Snow Hill is around 10 minutes walk from each.

All areas of Britain are well-served, with half-hourly services (M-Sa daytime) from Bristol, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Glasgow, London, Manchester, Oxford, Sheffield and stations in between. Timetables can be checked at National Rail Enquiries (+44 8457 48 49 50) and booked on-line or over the phone through the train operator.

By boat - Due to its industrial heritage, Birmingham has an extensive canal network and is on both the "Worcester & Birmingham" and "Grand Union" canals. Visitors travelling by narrowboat can choose from several tourist moorings, managed privately or by British Waterways. Although the moorings are very busy in spring and summer, call ahead for availability.

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