Dharamsala is a hill station city in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan
community centered around the Dalai Lama.
Dharamsala came into existence in 1849, it was selected as a site to accommodate
a native regiment that was being raised in the town. Dharamsala originally formed a
subsidiary cantonment for the troops stationed at Kangra Valley was fully occupied
by its garrison and there was insufficient space for the civil station , a search for an
alternate location was made. The ideal location for the cantonment was found at the
slopes of the Dhauladhar, upon which stood an old Hindu sanctuary or 'Dharamsala'
the name adopted for the town.
Dharamsala has been connected with Hinduism and Buddhism for a long time, with
many monasteries having been established there in the past, built by Tibetan
immigrants in the 8th century, however, these monasteries are believed to have
declined, with traditional Hindu building styles experiencing a revival. The local
Gaddi people are now almost all Hindu, and for the most part worship many gods
and goddesses, principally Durga and Shiva.
In 1848, the area was annexed by the British, and a year later, a military garrison was
established in the town. Dharamsala eventually became the administrative capital of
Kangra District in 1852. It became a popular hill station for the British working in or
near Delhi, offering a cool respite during the hot summer months.
However, the town was virtually destroyed in a massive earthquake in 1905, which
killed an estimated 20,000 people. Not only the town was devastated, but the nearby
town Kangra was also ruined. After this, the British moved their summer
headquarters to Shimla (also written Simla) which, though not far away, is off the
main fault line and, therefore, less likely to experience a serious earthquake.
Dharamsala still experiences frequent minor earthquakes.
PLACE TO VISIT
Tsuglagkhang Complex - Temple Rd. This is the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet, and it has a large meditation hall containing some beautiful statues and thangkas, as well as a Kalachakra temple with beautiful murals. It is the monastery of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, and is located just in front of his residence. On the basement level of the complex you will also find the Namgyal Cafe, which is run as a work-training center for Tibetan youth with daringly fusionesque if often unremarkable food, but great atmosphere in the evenings.
Tibet Museum - opp. Tsuglagkhang . Small but interesting museum on the history of Tibet and its people. Open Tu-Su 9AM-5 PM, entry Rs.5.
Tibetan Library - near the Tibetan Government in Exile, with a small but interesting museum.
Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) - Stages performances
of traditional Tibetan dance, music, and theatre.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Newly upgraded Gaggal Airport (DHM) in Kangra, 10 km away, has flights from Delhi on Air Deccan (daily via Pathankot) and Jagson Airlines (three times weekly via Kullu). Flights are prone to cancellation due to bad weather or because enough passengers didn't show up, so leave some leeway for onward connections on the way out.
By bus - Most people come to Dharamsala by bus. It has good connections with
other parts of North India, although the journeys are often slow due to the narrow
winding roads in the hills.
Many private bus companies are available for travel from Manali, Dehradun and
Delhi. Overnight buses from Delhi, many private ones leaving from the Tibetan
colony of Majnu ka Tilla, take upwards of 13 hours and cost from Rs. 500 upwards.
By train - The nearest broad gauge railhead is at Pathankot and the neighboring station of Chakki Bank, a comfortable overnight journey from Delhi. Train buffs can continue on the very slow and rickety but pretty Kangra Valley Railway to Kangra, a journey that easily takes up to 6 hours and still leaves you 18 km from McLeod Ganj, but most travellers choose to continue by bus or taxi instead. If you do choose to go to Kangra then from the train station you need to walk and autorickshaw to the bus stop where buses are available to take you to Dharamsala.
