Dalat, also Da Lat , located in the South Central Highlands of Vietnam, was originally the playground of the French who built villas in the clear mountain air to escape the heat and humidity of the coast and of Saigon, now know as Ho Chi Minh City.
Dalat looks like a cross between Vietnam and the French Alps. Many of its hotels and houses are built in a French style. The city spreads across a series of pine-covered hills, with a small lake in the center and surrounded by higher peaks, making for some lovely scenery quite different from the rest of Vietnam. Temperatures are pleasantly warm by day, and quite cool at night, down to perhaps 10C.
Dalat is very much a tourist town. Tour buses by the dozen run up and down its hills, and small hotels line its streets. The vast majority of visitors are Vietnamese on short package tours, drawn by the scenery, vivid blue skies, fresh air, flower-filled parks, and local edible treats. Dalat is a favorite destination for company weekend outings, family get-aways, and honeymoons. Most guidebooks for overseas visitors describe Dalat as a cheesy town with tacky tourist sites, which is partly true. Attend a "mountain tribe" dance performance, and your eyes might get stuck in the upward-rolled position. But Dalat remains a pleasant stop on a north-south tour, or a pleasant outing from Saigon. For overseas visitors, it offers mostly a chance to cool down, observe the Vietnamese at play, view a bit of the French legacy, and enjoy the atmosphere. Dalat is also surrounded by some of the best mountain biking, hiking and canyoning opportunities in Vietnam.
Dalat's high altitude (1500-2000 m) and fertile landscape make it one of Vietnam's premier agricultural areas, producing varieties of fruits, vegetables and flowers that don't grow in the lowlands. In markets as far north as Hanoi, vegetable and flower vendors will tout their "made in Dalat" produce.
PLACE TO VISIT
Packaged day tours are easily purchased round town, which will take you to a variety of sites. (An indignity not uncommon in the developing world -- visitors from outside Vietnam are often required to pay double what Vietnamese pay for admission to many places when visiting individually.)
Tours typically include a handful of stops like the following:
The summer home of the colonial-era king of Vietnam which is modestly interesting.
A striking, not-quite-finished fantasy house designed by the daughter of an independence war hero. Worth a visit if you are interested in architecture, or like Dr. Seuss-style surroundings.
A set of flower gardens centered around a re-constructed traditional Vietnamese teakwood house.
A hill-top pagoda coupled with a brief cable car ride over the pine forest.
A ride in a land rover up to the top of Langbiang mountain, with nice views of Dalat and the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Other sites of interest:
Ho Xuan Huong (Hồ Xuân Hương) aka Xuan Huong lake, center of town. Open daily, all hours. No admission fee but rental fees vary if you want to boat. Approximately 5km in diameter, this lake was made after two dams on the Camly river were destroyed during a storm in the 1930s. Now, Xuan Huong lake is one of the main draws of Da Lat, and you can see honeymooners and locals strolling its banks. Many nice hotels have a view of the lake.
Da Lat market filled with local specialities: strawberry jam, fruits conserves, avocado, artichoke.
Da Lat train station: take the steam train through the 17km historical line to Trai Mat, from there you can visit the Linh Phuong pagoda.
Ho Suoi Vang (Golden Spring lake). Rather unspoiled scenery.
Monastery, at the top of where the cable car drops you off. The monastery has a magnificent view over the dams below and its gardens are full of landscaped shrubs in animal form - very comic! Extremely peaceful - a great place to relax and soak in the tranquility.
Thung Lung Tinh Yeu aka Valley of Love, Phu Duong Thien Vong street. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under US$1. About 5km outside of town, the Valley of Love is common stop on Dalat tours and is very popular with honeymooners. The Valley of Love is also a great spot for canyoning.
Lake of Sorrow or Lake of Sighs, 5km northeast of town on Ho Xuan Huong road. Admission fee under US$1. The Lake of Sorrow is another common destination in Dalat. The Lake of Sorrow is so-named because of a tale of two lovers, one who committed suicide after the other was called up to serve in the army. The exact tale changes depending on the age and gender of the storyteller!
Tuyen Lam Lake , 5km south of town on highway 20. Its clean green waters flow from the beautiful Tia Spring and from the Da Tam River, which flows down from Voi mountain. Its waters stretch over an immense 350 hectares and because of its various sources, Tuyen Lam is known as the lake where rivers, springs and forests meet. The lake was built in the 80s. It is one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in town. The other side of the lake is the Voi mountain which is a good place for hiking.
Prenn Falls, At the foot of Prenn Pass, about 10km outside of town. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under US$1. A very common stop on a typical Dalat tour, Prenn Falls is quite beautiful but is a lot more fun when you're hiking it than just taking pictures of it.
Pongour Falls, 30km south of town on highway 20, it's one of the largest and widest waterfalls in Vietnam and during the wet season is a magnificent sight. From memory it's about 100+ metres wide.
WHAT TO DO
Easy Riders (a motorbike and driver/guide) is a great way for a non-motorcyclist to tour the central highlands, providing access to places you would otherwise never know about. They speak good English, are from local villages, seemingly know everyone, and will probably find you before you find them. In the case they do not find you at a good time, many often hang out in the Peace Cafe, which is attached to Peace Hotel 1. You will know the driver is legit when you are presented with a book, full of praise from other excited tourists. From about US$20/person for an 8 hour tour, up to US$60/day for long distance multi-day trips, often including accommodation.
Phat Tire Ventures, Trips run daily with extended trips outside Dalat also available. Founded by Brian and Kim Vierra, Phat Tire Ventures combines American technology and safety methods with local knowledge of trails and communities to deliver an outstanding adventure experience. Hike the highlands, making your way across sketchy bridges, to meet hill tribes that barely experience foreigners. Or, canyon the Valley of Love and enjoy the stunned faces of honeymooners as you pace with climbing gear over your shoulder. And, best of all, bike through coffee farms to Bao Dai palace or to the Bamboo forest and enjoy stunning views of Dalat's many lakes and rivers.
Vespa Vietnam Adventures ,highly recommended. This departs from Ho Chi Minh City. Couple: $US 3995, Single: $US 2785
University of Dalat, 1 Phu Dong Thien Vuong Street. Students from the Hand-in-Hand Club are eager to serve as free guides.
HOW TO REACH
Most local and foreign travellers arrive in Dalat by bus, particularly on the famous Sinh Cafe Hanoi-HCMC bus route. From Nha Trang, the bus ride is about 5 hours, with the obligatory stop at a dilapidated Cham temple/tourist site. From Ho Chi Minh City, the bus ride is about 6-7 hours.
There are various travel agencies in the town that can book buses to all parts of the country.
Alternatively, catch the local coach at HCMC, Bien Hoa, Phan Rang, Nha Trang or Buon Ma Thuot.
The airport, 30 km south of the city, has daily Vietnam Airlines flights to HCMC and Hanoi.
