Ayutthaya - full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya - is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km to the north of Bangkok.
Originally founded by King U-Thong in 1350 within a bend of the Chao Phraya river, Ayutthaya was the capital of the Thai kingdom at its mightiest. Conquered and sacked by the Burmese in 1767, today only the ruins of its splendor remain. The modern city was founded a few kilometers further east.
Ayutthaya was originally known as "Ayothaya" which refers to the capital of King Rama (see Ramayana). When King Naresuan the Great defeated the Burmese, he changed the name of the city to "Aytthaya" meaning "the undefeatable city". During the period of Ayutthaya being the Siamese capital for 417 years, 33 kings of different dynasties ruled the kingdom.
The Bowring Treaty (1855), signed by King Mogkhut between Siam and Britain, was the first of its kind and successfully opened up Siam to Western influence and trade.
The ruins of the old capital in the Ayutthaya historical park are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. and have been so since December 1991.
Among Thai cities, Ayutthaya's English name is probably the least standardized - it is also known as Ayotaya, Ayothaya, Ayudhya, Ayutaya, Ayuthaya and Ayuttaya.
PLACE TO VISIT
Wat Borom Phuttharam situated inside Rajabhat University Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya, the north-facing temple was built some time during 1688–1703 during the reign of King Phetracha on his former residence area near the main gate of the southern city wall. Its location and area plan was confined to be in the north-south direction by ancient communication routes; namely, Khlong Cha Krai Noi in the east and a royal pathway known as Thanon Maha Ratthaya or Thanon Pa Tong in the west. Unlike other temples, the King had all buildings roofed with yellow glazed tiles and the temple became known as “Wat Krabueang Khlueap” or the “glazed tile temple”. The construction took 2 years and the temple underwent a major renovation in the reign of King Borommakot, who had 3 pairs of door panels decorated with fine mother-of-pearl inlays. One pair of them is currently at Ho Phra Monthian Tham inside the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the second is at Wat Benchamabophit (The Marble Temple), and the third was turned into cabinets and is now exhibited at the Bangkok National Museum.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Sri Sanphet Rd) is the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas). Housed within the grounds of the former royal palace, the wat was used only for royal religious ceremonies. It once housed a 16-meter Buddha covered with 340 kg of gold, but the Burmese set fire to the statue to melt the gold and destroyed the temple in the process.
Used as a residential palace, it became a monastery in the reign of King Ramathibodi I. When King Borom Trai Lokanat commanded new living quarters built, this residential palace was given to be a temple area, thus originating Wat Phra Si Sanphet : The royal chapel does not have any monks and novice inhabitants. It is open everyday from 8.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m
Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopitah (Sri Sanphet Rd) is next to Wat Phra Si Sanphet and houses a large bronze cast Buddha image. It was originally enshrined outside the Grand Palace to the east. King Songtham commanded it to be transferred to the west, where it is currently enshrined and covered with a Mondop. Later in the reign of Phra Chao Suea, the top of the Mondop was burnt down by a fire due to a thunderbolt. Then, the King commanded a new building be built in the form of a big sanctuary (Maha Wihan) to cover the image in lieu of the former Mondop. During the second fall of Ayutthaya, the building and the image were badly destroyed by fire, the one currently seen was renovated but does not have as beautiful craftsmanship as the previous ones. The open area east of the Sanctuary (Wihan) was formerly Sanam Luang, where the royal cremation ceremony took place (This practice is now held at Sanam Luang, the Phramen Ground of Bangkok). No entry charge.
Ancient Palace (access through Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, no additional entry charge) is mostly low-lying ruins set in large grounds, with only a few free standing buildings remaining. It was originally called the Grand Palace, the residential palace of every king was located close to the city wall of Ayutthaya. A road passes by from Chantharakasem Palace, which is two kilometres away to the north. Important buildings inside the Grand Palace compound are:
Wihan Somdet Hall : The top of this hall has been decorated in a unique style of architecture called Prang. It has longer space in front and rear gabled rooms, and shorter space in the side gabled rooms. It was surrounded with a three-sided cloister and utilized for various royal ceremonies such as coronations. This was the first building over constructed in Ayutthaya to be affixed with gold leaf.
Sanphet Prasat Hall : This is the middle building construted in the same design as Wihan Somdet Hall. Kings used it to welcome foreign envoys and visitors.
Suriyat Amarin Hall : A four-gabled roof building constructed of sandstone and brick; it is close to the riverside city wall. It was used as a place to witness the royal barge processions.
Chakkrawat Phaichayon Hall With a three-gabled roof, is on the inner eastern city wall in front of the Grand Palace. It was used to view processions and military practice.
Trimuk Hall This is located behind the Sanphet Prasat Hall. It is believed to have been the residential area of the consort members and also the garden was the royal relaxing place.
Banyong Rattanat Hall : Formerly known by the name of “Phra Thinang Thaisa”, it is located in the back compound of the Grand Palace on an island in a pond. It has four-gabled roof architecture. Remains of the throne halls that are left to be seen at present, were constructed in the reign of King Borommatrailokkanat and used to serve as royal residences for all later kings. Open daily during 6.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m. Admission is 30 Baht each. A package ticket is also available at 180 Baht each, covering admission to temples and museums within the province and valid for 30 days, including Wat Phra Si Sanphet and the Ancient Palace Complex, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, Wat Phra Ram, Wat Chai Watthanaram, Chao Sam Phraya National Museum and Chantharakasem Museum. For more details call Tel. 0 3524 2501, 0 3524 4570.
Wat Thammikarat (U-Thong Rd) is a working wat, but also contains the ruins of a large chedi and a huge wiharn which has a large tree growing picturesquely out of the side of one wall. It is a temple in the Mahanikaya Sect, Wat Thammikarat was formerly known as Wat Mukkharat. When King Sainamphueng had Wat Phananchoeng constructed before the establishment of the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, King Thammikarat – his son, had this temple constructed in an old town called Sangkhaburi. The temple had successively been restored by later kings. In the reign of King Songtham (1610 A.D.), the temple was renovated and a Wihan Luang constructed for sermon hearing. The Wihan Luang once enshrined an enormous bronze head of the Buddha of the U Thong period, now exhibited at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. The temple also houses a Reclining Buddha hall called Wihan Phra Phutthasaiyat built by his queen consort following her wish made for her daughter’s recovery from an ailment. The Wihan is located to the north of Phra Chedi with a base of 52 surrounding Singha or lions, and houses a north-facing reclining Buddha image measuring 12 metres in length, with both feet gilded and inlaid with glass mosaic. No entry charge.
Wat Ratchaburana (Naresuan Rd) stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition, clearly visible if you come in from the east. A major find of golden statues and other paraphernalia was made here in 1958, although much was subsequently stolen by robbers — the remnants are now in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum. You can climb inside the prang for nice views and a little exhibit. The mysterious staircase down, leads to two unrestored rooms with original paintings still visible on the walls. Entrance fee of 30 baht.
Wat Phra Mahathat (Naresuan Rd), across the road from Wat Ratburana, is a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. Several Leaning Prangs of Ayutthaya are still feebly defying gravity though, and the rows of headless Buddhas are atmospheric. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head. Entrance fee of 30 baht.
Wat Phra Ram (Sri Sanphet Road) consists of one huge prang and some smaller chedi and outbuildings, all in disrepair though the top of the prang is complete. Staircases to the side of the prang give views of Ayutthaya. This monastery was situated outside the grand palace compound to the east. King Ramesuan commanded it built on ground, where the royal cremation ceremony for his father, King U-Thong, took place. A big lagoon is in front of this monastery. Its original name was “Nong Sano”, it was changed to be “Bueng Phraram” or currently Phraram Public Park. It is open everyday from 8.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. Entry charge of 30 baht.
Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai , (U-Thong Rd) is a white and gold coloured chedi built as a memorial to a previous queen. Set in a small, well-kept gardens, it is the memorial for the first heroine in Siamese history, is located in Ko Mueang to the west. Among various places of interest within the Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya Historical Park, this ancient place is of much importance as a proof of honour that ancient Siamese society gave to Thai women.
Wat Phu Khao Thong (about 3km out of town, west off the Ang Thong Rd) is a huge white, and slightly wonky, chedi set in a big field. The actual nearby wat is still working and has small grounds with a smiling fat buddha image set in the ruins of a small viharn. You will see the Monument of King Naresuan the Great on the way. No entry charge.
Wat Cheung Tha (about 1km out of town, east off the Ang Thong Rd) is a small working wat with small grounds with chedi and viharn ruins and some buddha images. No entry charge.
Wat Nah Phra Meru (about 1km out of town, east from Wat Cheung Tha) has a large viharn containing the biggest bronze buddha image in Ayutthaya, cast dressed in full royal regalia. The viharn is set in well maintained grounds with buddha images, a small koi carp pond, and three ruined chedis, one of which has a large bodhi tree growing out of the top of it. A 20 baht temple donation per person is asked for.
Wat Phanancherng (on the Bang Pa-in Rd, about 1.5km out of town) is a working wat which contains the oldest large cast bronze Buddha image in Ayutthaya, though it was covered in scaffold in June 2006 for refurbishment. There is a small room to the right of the main hall which contains a nice collection of Buddha images and the room is painted with many individual unique pictures, in bright colours offset with gold. A 20 baht temple donation per person is asked for.
Wat Kasattrathirat Worawihan is the monastery located outside Ko Mueang, opposite Chedi Phra Si Suriyothai, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River. Its former name was Kasattra or Kasattraram. It is an ancient temple of the Ayutthaya period with a main Prang (stupa) as its centre.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram Is another monastery that is located on the bank of Chao Phraya River, on the west of the city island. King Prasat Thong commanded it built. The great beauty has been reflected from the main stupa and its satellite stupas along the gallery, an architecture influenced by Khmer. Travelling can be made by river form Chantharakasem National Museum. A long-tailed boat service is available at 300-400 baht for a round trip, consuming about one hour.
Wat Phutthaisawan is the monastery situated on the river bank opposite Ko Mueang to the south. Travel by car along the route Ayutthaya-Sena to the west of Ko Mueang. After passing the bridge in front of Wat Kasattrathirat, turn left to Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Follow the direction signs, you will find a left turn to Wat Phutthaisawan. This monastery was built in the area where King U-Thong moved to establish his city. The area was first known as Wiang Lek, named after the royal palace of King U-Thong. The most interesting part of Wat Phutthaisawan is the great principal Buddha image; its style is of the early Ayutthaya Period.
HOW TO REACH
By train - The cheapest and most colorful way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. All north and north-east line trains depart from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station and stop in Ayutthaya, a trip of about 1.5 hours - 2.5hrs depending on the type of train service. According to the State Railway of Thailand website, First Class costs 66baht,Second class (non-aircon) costs 35 baht (seats can be booked in advance), while third class is just 20 baht (no reservations). You can check all the fares in the website . Trains pass by the province’s Amphoe Bang Pa-in, Amphoe Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya and Amphoe Phachi, where at Ban Phachi Junction the railway lines separate to the North and Northeast. Then, mini-buses can be taken from the railway station into the city. See Thailand "State Railway" for schedule and cost.
By bus - Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit*) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 60 baht, while second class is 45 baht. Allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.
By minibus (Van) - Convenient minibus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates from the Victory Monument square in Bangkok. Take BTS Skytrain to the Victory Monument station, and go right on the elevated walkway - keep on it until you cross a large road, then descend - the buses are parked at the side side of the main traffic circle). The cost is usually ~70 baht, takes around 1 hour or 1 hour 20 min. It's quite convenient since you don't have to go to bus terminals (nearby Mochit) but the only problem is that the minibuses don't have much space to put big bags and have to wait until the car is fully filled.
By boat - Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricy) overnight tours. -- Boat from Ayutthaya to Bangkok leaves 11:30AM daily (arrives Bangkok ~4PM) = 1350 baht/person PH: 08 97662672
