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BATTAMBANG TRAVEL GUIDE

Battambang founded during the height of the Khmer empire in the 11th century (long before the Thai were a political power), is Cambodia's second-largest city and the capital of Battambang Province. It is the urbanized part of the Battambang District. After the invasion of Thai forces, it was the main commercial hub of Siam's Eastern Provinces, though it was always populated by ethnic Cambodians. The Thai finally returned the provinces in 1909 because of pressure from the French, who administered Cambodia as a 'Protectorate', though the Thai attempted to regain the territory as part of a deal they made with the Japanese during World War II. After the defeat of their Japanese ally, Thailand returned the area to the French, from whom it was formally given to Cambodia in 1953. It is the former capital of Monton Kmer.The city lies in the heart of the Northwest and until the war years was the leading rice-producing province of the country.

Battambang is the main hub of the Northwest connecting the entire region with Phnom Penh and Thailand, and as such it’s a vital link for Cambodia. The main parts of the city are situated closed to the Sangker River, a tranquil, small body of water that winds its way through Battambang Province. It is a nice, picturesque setting. As with much of Cambodia, the French architecture is an attractive bonus of the city. The French has left most of its influence on the Cambodian land.

Legend has it that the name 'Battambang' received its name referring to an episode in Khmer history when the King Kranhoung (Kron Nhong) threw his wooden staff from Angkor and it landed in present day Battambang, a fact commemorated by the huge golden statue in honour of the staff-throwing king, erected in the town. The stone inscriptions discovered from the pre-Angkor and Angkor eras have as yet mentioned no villages or districts at that time that were called ‘Battambang’. But it is not certain if the name was in use a lot of info including much evidence. However, the only evidence is a legendary story ‘Ta Dombang Kranhuong’ Grandfather Kranhuong Stick, which, according to most Cambodians, dates back to the Angkor days. The story explains why the name ‘Battambang’ or ‘O Dambang’ was used. There is another name: ‘Preas Dambang’ (Phratabong in Thai) that was given by the King Rama I of Thailand to a village, which goes by the name ‘Sangke’.

During the pre-Angkor and Angkor eras, the areas to the north and to the north west of the Tonle Sap Lake were known as the territories of Amogha Boreak and Bhima Boreak. During the Angkor period, the territory of Amogha Boreak was significantly prosperous because the land was so fertile that rice crops, fruit and vegetables grew well and yielded satisfactorily. Many Khmer people settled there as indicated by the existence of so many ancient temples in the area. With the exception of the temples of Banan, Ek Phnom, Ba Seth, Stung, Banteay Tey, Banteay Chmar, etc,other monuments, which were built by dignitaries and subjects at the time as places of worship to God and other deities of Buddhism and Hinduism, almost completely disappeared.

 

PLACE TO VISIT

Barseat Temple - was built during the reign of King, Soriyak Varman I (1002-1050) and located on a hill at Ba Set village, Ta Pun commune in 15-kilometre (9 mi) distance from the provincial town. Ba Set temple adapts the architecture of 11th century and built in 1036 and 1042. Next to the temple, there is a pond having 20-metre (66 ft) length 12-metre (39 ft) width and 10-metre (33 ft) depth. The pond is never dried, though in the dry season. In rainy season, the water level is higher than usual.

Wat Ek Temple - adapts the architecture of 11th century and built in 1027 during the reign of King, Sorayak Varman I (1002-1050). It is located at Piem Ek commune in 14-kilometre (9 mi) from the provincial town.

Ba Nan Temple - adapts the architecture of mid 11th century and the end of 12th century the temple was first built by King, Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya Varman II (1050-1066) and was built finally built by the king, Jayavarman VII (1181-1220). The temple is located on the top of approximate 400-metre (1,310 ft) heighten mountain at Koh Tey 2 commune, Ba Nan District in 15-kilometre (9 mi) distance from the provincial town by the provincial Road No 155 parallel to Sang Ke River. At the mountain’s valley, there are Ku Teuk and two main natural well, namely: Bit Meas and Chhung or Chhung Achey.

Prasat Snung - characterizes as three separated stupas made of brick, located on a hill having 30-metre (98 ft) length and 20-metre (66 ft) width, in Snung pagoda’s area, Snung commune, Ba Nan District in 22-kilometre (14 mi) distance from the provincial town. According to the style at the gate, the temple is similar to other temples in 12th century. Behind the temple, there is another new constructing temple.

Phnom Sam Pov Resort - is the natural resort located along the National Road No 57 (the former National Road No10) at Sam Puoy commune (the high land having more than 100-metre (330 ft) height) in 12-kilometre (7 mi) distance from the provincial town of Battambang. On the top of Sam Puoy mountain, there are temple and three natural wells, namely Pkar Slar, Lo Khuon and Ak So Pheak. Next to Sam Puoy mountain, there are some main mountains, the natural site like Phnom Trung Moan, Phnom Trung Tea and Phnom Neang Rum Say Sork. These mountains related to the Cambodia folk legend of Reach Kol Neang Rum Say Sork.

Boeng Kam Pinh Puoy Resort - locates between two mountains, named Phnom Kul or Phnom Ta Nget and Phnom Kam Pinh Puoy, at Ta Nget village, Ta Kriem Commune in 35-kilometre (22 mi) distance from the provincial town. Boeng kam Pinh Puoy has 1,900-metre (6,230 ft) width, 19-kilometre (12 mi) length and can load 110,000,000 cubic metres (3.8846×109 cu ft).

Sek Sak Resort - is the natural resort, which has been popular since before the civil war time. Sek Sak stretches along the river bank full of plant, trees and bamboo-green nature in 500-metre (1,640 ft) length. As long as visiting Sek Sak, tourists can also visit other attractive sites like Po Pus Pich Chen Da Dong Tong and Sa Ang speak, the pre-history site in five kilometer (3.1 mi) to six kilometer (3.75 mi) distance from each other. Sek Sak located Treng commune, Rotanak Mondul District in 50-kilometre (31 mi) distance from the provincial town of Battambang along the National Road No 57, the former National Road No 10.

Wat Ek Phnom, another Angkor-type temple ruin, about 15 km north west of Battambang. The road goes alongside lovely small rivers bordered by trees and small villages and is in general a very nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom you suddenly encounter a giant buddha statue in the wat. The grounds of the Wat also have an Angkorian era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Phnom Sampeu, a hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few Buddhist caves and a monastery with two Stupas on the hilltop. Entry is US$2, covering also Wat Banan.

Wat Banan, the so-called mini-Angkor wat, an impressive flight of stairs leads up to a dilapidated Angkor-type temple which is still in use as a buddhist shrine.

Wat Baydamram, a temple, where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the monks.

WHAT TO DO

Take a ride on the bamboo train (the "norry"). A trip to the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged for with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. Expect to pay additional for the train (a special "tourist charter" should cost no more than 10 USD per half-hour). Ask for an estimate of the price directly with the driver and get him to bargain the price for you by linking his own pay to the price you will get for the "norry". Some drivers will cost you less but then drive you to more greedy "norry" drivers and you will end up forking more money than initially planned. Do combine the trip to catch a bamboo train with a visit of the countryside (that is stop your driver on the way there).

Take a motorbike trip around the countryside and visit some nice temples and enjoy the views.

Wander around the market and sample local dishes.

 

HOW TO REACH

By air - Battambang does have an airport, but it's been closed since the road to Phnom Penh was sealed.

By road - Buses and share taxis run to many destinations, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (via Sisophon), and the Thai border at Poipet/Aranyaprathet (also via Sisophon) and Pailin.

The Phnom Penh - Battambang - Sisophon road is sealed and well maintained, and the bridges are not prone to collapse (unlike their counterparts on the unsealed roads). Travelling by car, it takes around four hours to get to Phnom Penh, and just under an hour to get to Sisophon. Buses take a little longer.

By boat - Boats go to and from Siem Reap (for Angkor) daily. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boats thread their way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take as little as four hours, or over twelve, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

When the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up.

By rail - There is a very slow, once-weekly train service between Battambang and Phnom Penh via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275 km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.

 

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