Aksum, is a city in northern Ethiopia named after the Kingdom of Aksum, a naval and trading power that ruled from the region ca. 400 BC into the 10th century. The kingdom was occasionally referred to in medieval writings as "Ethiopia".
Located in the Mehakelegnaw Zone of the Tigray Region near the base of the Adwa mountains, the city has an elevation of 2,130 meters. It was the centre of the (eventual) Christian marine trading power the Aksumite Kingdom, which predated the earliest mentions in Roman era writings (around the time of the birth of Jesus) in good correlation to the expansion of Rome into northern Africa, and later when it developed into the Christian kingdom, was a quasi-ally of Byzantium against the day's Persian Empire. The historical record is unclear, primary sources being in the main limited to ancient church records.
It is believed it began a long slow decline after the 7th century due partly to Islamic groups contesting trade routes. Eventually Aksum was cut off from its principal markets in Alexandria, Byzantium and Southern Europe and its trade share was captured by Arab traders of the era. The Kingdom of Aksum also quarreled with Islamic groups over religion. Eventually the people of Aksum were forced south and their civilization declined. As the kingdom's power declined so did the influence of the city, which is believed to have lost population in the decline similar to Rome and other cities thrust away from the flow of world events. The last known (nominal) king to reign was crowned ca. 10th century, but the kingdom's influence and power ended long before that.
PLACE TO VISIT
Church of St. Mary of Zion. Ethiopian legend has it that the Church is the repository of the Ark of the Covenant (the subject of the controversial The Sign and the Seal), which is said to have been stolen (with God's will) from the temple of Jerusalem by Menelik I, Solomon?s own son by the legendary Queen of Sheba. Unfortunately, for visitors, the chapel in which the Ark is secreted away is not accessible to anyone, including, even the Ethiopian emperors. Pilgrims flock here on Hidar 21 (November 30). The high entrance fee is deterring, but sometimes the guards let you have a look from the outside without having to pay. There are two churches in the compound: the old church, which was built by Emperor Fasiladas in 1665, and a new church built in the 1960s by Haile Selassie.
Northern Stelae Field including the Ezana Stele and the Giant Stele. There are numerous monolithic stelae fashioned out solid granite. Their mystery lies in that it is not known exactly by whom, and for what purpose, they were so fashioned, although they were likely associate with burials of great emperors. The biggest monolith (and the largest in the world), measuring over thirty-three meters (108 feet) and weighing about 500 tons, fell somewhere around the 4th Century AD and now lies in broken fragments on the ground. The second largest, which measures 24 meters (78 feet) high, is still standing at the entrance to the field, although it is leaning at a slight angle. Another stele, 24.8 meters (80 feet) high, fell while the tombs were being pillaged around the 10th Century AD. It was stolen by the invading forces of Fascist Italy and taken to Rome, where it stood, from 1937 to 2005. It has been returned to Ethiopia and will eventually be stood up again. The mausoleum and the tomb of the brick walls are not open to the public anymore. The tomb of the false door is very impressive with its accurate workmanship.
Palace of the Queen of Sheba: only the foundations of this palace near the Judith stelae field remain. Although every calls it the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, it actually dates from the 7th Century AD, about 1500 years after the time of the Queen of Sheba.
Lioness of gonedra, a stone carving of a lion, a few kms out of town in direction Shire. It is close to the quarry where the stelae were made. Ask a local boy to show you where.
The tombs of the kings Kaleb and Gebre Meskel, a 20-minute walk along the road heading northeast from the northern stelae field. Impressive foundations and tombs. Take a torch along.
Ezanas Scriptures (on the way from the northern stelae field to the tombs of the kings Kaleb and Gebre Meskel), usually closed, wait for the keybearer.
Judith Stelae field (out of town in direction Shire), of inferior quality in comparison to the northern stelae field
Ezana park, where there is another multilingual script table of king Ezana.
Archaelogical museum a collection of stone artefacts giving you an idea how advanced the culture was.
A ticket from the tourist commission, located off the roundabout 400 m south of the Northern Stelae Field, covers admission to all sights except the Church of St. Mary of Zion.
HOW TO REACH
Buses from Addis Ababa take a minimum of three days to make the journey via Dessie and Mekele. It is a very taxing bus ride over rough roads.
From Gondar, take the dawn bus to Shire and change there for Aksum -- you can usually get through in a day. To travel to Gondar, you must take an afternoon bus to Shire, spend the night there, and catch the dawn bus to Gondar. The road between Shire and Gondar is one of the most spectacular in Ethiopia.
From Debark and the Simien Mountains, there is only one bus heading north to Shire. That is the Gondar bus, and it is often full when it passes through Debark. You can either take your chances (it isn't always full!), or hire someone from Debark for about 150 birr to go into Gondar the day before and ride the Shire bus to Debark for you, guarenteeing you a seat. (Note that you must make arrangements the morning prior to the day you want to leave. If you are going trekking, you can make arrangements before you leave for your trek.) There are many buses travelling between Shire and Aksum. To travel to Debark, go to Shire in the afternoon, spend the night there, catch the Gondar bus the next morning, and get off at Debark. You will probably have to pay the full fare to Gondar (about 50 birr).
