Alexandria is Egypt's second largest city (3.5 million people), its largest seaport and the country's window onto the Mediterranean Sea. It's a faded shade of its former glorious cosmopolitan self, but still worth a visit for its many cultural attractions and still-palpable glimpses of its past.
Few cities of the world have a history as rich as that of Alexandria; few cities have witnessed so many historic events and legends. The city was founded by and named after Greek conqueror Alexander the Great (Iskander al-Akbar) in 334 BCE, and became famous far and wide thanks to two buildings:
The Lighthouse of Alexandria (Pharos) was built in the third century BC by Ptolemy I on the island of Pharos. The height of the lighthouse was between 115 and 150 meters, so it was among the highest structures in the world, second only to the Great Pyramids. The lighthouse was built on 3 floors: a square bottom with a central heart, a section octagonal average and above an upper section. And on the top there was a mirror that reflected sunlight during the day and used fire for the night. But it was damaged by 2 earthquakes in 1303 and 1323.
The Library of Alexandria was the largest library of the ancient world and the place where great philosophers and scientists of that age came to seek knowledge. Alexandria also hosted, at the time, the largest Jewish community in the world, and the Septuagint, the first Greek translation of the Hebrew Bible, was written in the city.
In all, Alexandria was one of the greatest cities in the Hellenic world, second only to Rome in size and wealth, and while it changed hands from Rome to Byzantine and finally Persia, the city stayed the capital of Egypt for a millennium.
Alas, the city's reign came to an end when the Arabs conquered Egypt in 641 and decided to found a new capital to the south in Cairo. (Scholars still debate if this was when the Library was finally destroyed; it is known that the Library was, at the very least, sacked and badly damaged by the Romans themselves in 48 BC, c. 270, and once more in 391.)
PLACE TO VISIT
Citadel of Qait Bey, Ras el-Tin (yellow tram #25), ☎ +20-3-4809144. One of the icons of the city at a beautiful location, the fortress overlooks the Mediterranean Sea and the city itself. Built by Mameluke Sultan Abdul-Nasser Qait Bey in 1477 AD but razed and reconstructed twice since.This citadel was built in 1480 by Sultan Qaitbey on the site of the Pharos Lighthouse, to protect the city from the crusaders who used to attack the city by sea. LE 20.
Cemetery of Mostafa Kamel. The cemetery includes four tombs dating from the second century BC, all of which are in excellent condition and beautifully decorated. The cemetery bears the name of Mostafa Kamel, one of Egypt's largest political twentieth century legends. It was he who pronounced the famous phrase: "If I was not born as an Egyptian, I would like to be an Egyptian."
Roman Catacombs, Kom-el-Shuqqafa. -17:00. A stunning set of catacombs with a fascinating mix of Roman and Egyptian iconography. Best viewed early in the morning or late afternoon when no one else is around. Shoes that can get muddy. Some guides recommend a flashlight but this is not necessary. LE 25.
Pompey's Pillar, Karmouz. An ancient monument, this 25-meter-high granite column was constructed in honor of the Emperor Diocletian in AD 297. The confined area where the column stands has also other ruins and sculptures. The area seems mostly to be visited by Europeans.Also beside this area very big shopping for cloth and furniture equipments called " El-Saa3a" where u can fine many types of cloth or clothes LE 15.
Roman Theatre, Kom El-Dikka, ☎ +20-3-3902904. Built in the 2nd century AD, this Roman amphitheater has 13 semicircular tiers made of white and gray marble, with marble seats for up to 800 spectators, galleries and sections of mosaic-flooring. In Ptolemaic times this area was the Park of Pan, a pleasure garden surrounded by Roman villas and baths. LE 15/2 foreigner/Egyptian.
Montaza Palace, El Montaza, ☎ +20-3-5477153 or +20-3- 5473056. Built in 1892 by Abbas II of Egypt Abbas Hilmi Pasha, the last khedive of Egypt. One of the palace buildings, the Haramlek, now contains a casino on the ground floor and a museum of royal relics on the upper levels, while the Salamlek has been converted into a luxury hotel (see Sleep). Parts of the extensive gardens (over 200 acres) are open to the public. There is a entrance fee for the park.
Alexandria National Museum, Raml station, ☎ +20-3-4835519 or +20-3- 4838035. .History Museum with more than 1800 archaeological pieces exhibited chronologically: the basement is devoted to Prehistoric and Pharonic times; first floor to the Graeco-Roman period; second floor to the Coptic and Islamic era that highlights artifacts raised during recent underwater excavations.
Graeco-Roman Museum, Raml station, ☎ +20-3-4865820 or +20-3-4876434. Closed. A history museum with a vast collection mostly dating from the 3rd century BC to the 3rd century AD, spanning the Ptolemaic and Roman periods. Closed for renovation in 2008 and for three years.
Abou el-Abbas al-Mursi mosque, Bahary. Built in 1775 by Algerians, the mosque was built over the tomb of the thirteenth century Sufi saint Andalusan Murcia, Ahmed Abu al-Abbas al-Mursi (Abul Abbas). The walls of the mosque are dressed in artificial stone, while the minaret, located on the south side, stands at 73 metres
Saint Mark's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral, Mahatet El Raml, Founded in 60 AD and the historical seat of the Pope of Alexandria, although in 1971 — after nearly 2000 years here — the seat was moved the Hanging Church in Coptic Cairo. Saint Mark the Evangelist (yes, the one who wrote the Gospel of Mark) founded the church and was buried here, but the body was stolen by the Venetians in 828 to be enshrined in St. Mark's Basilica in Venice. The head was kept though, and its shroud was ritually changed by every new Patriach, but it too was later lost. Not much of this history remains today: the cathedral has been rebuilt at least five times and the present building dates from 1952.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Alexandria has two airports in the immediate vicinity and is also within striking distance of Cairo.
Alexandria's main airport is El Nouzha Airport (IATA: ALY), which has a limited selection of domestic flights and fairly extensive services to cities around the Middle East. The only connection to Europe, though, is from Athens on Olympic Airlines . The airport lies 8 km (5 mi) to the south-east of the city. A taxi will take you about 20 minutes and should cost no more than 15 LE.
By train - From Cairo, frequent trains from Ramses Station are probably the best way to get to Alexandria. Trains run at least once every hour from 6 AM to 10 PM, but try to choose either an express or the pride of Egyptian Railways, the French-built Turbo, which takes only 2 hours 10 minutes for the journey. 1st/2nd class tickets LE 46/29 one-way.
For the return journey, trains depart from Misr Station, a 10-minute stroll south of the Corniche along Nabi Daniel St, as well as the Sidi Gaber Station.
By car - There are two options when traveling from Cairo to Alexandria by car. Using either route, the journey usually takes around 3 hours, depending on speed and surrounding traffic.
By bus - Several bus companies offer a bus service into Alexandria at a very low price range: 20-35 LE. Buses are air conditioned and come complete with a hostess trolley service. Companies include Golden Arrow, West Delta, Super Jet, Pullman and El Gouna. Operating times vary from one company to another, but there are trips between Cairo and Alexandria virtually every hour from early morning till midnight.
