Buenos Aires is the capital and largest city of Argentina. It is located on the southern
shore of the Río de la Plata, on the southeastern coast of the South American
continent. After the internal conflicts of the 19th century, Buenos Aires was
federalised and removed from Buenos Aires Province in 1880; its city limits were
enlarged to include the former towns of Belgrano and Flores; both are now
neighbourhoods in the city.
The name means fair winds in Spanish. It is one of the largest cities in Latin
America, with a lot of cultural offerings, and is the point of departure for travelling to
the rest of the country. Inhabitants of Buenos Aires are called porteños, "people from
the port". Buenos Aires is a singular, open and integrating destination that allows the
visitor not only to view the city but also to live an exceptional urban adventure.
Argentines sometimes refer to the city as Capital Federal to differentiate the city from
the province of the same name. In the 1994 constitution, the city was given
autonomy, hence its formal name: Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
The city was first established as Ciudad de Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen
Ayre (literally "City of Our Lady Saint Mary of the Fair Winds") on February 2, 1536 by a
Spanish expedition under Pedro de Mendoza. The location of Mendoza's city was in
today's San Telmo district, south of the city center.
More attacks by the indigenous peoples forced the settlers away, and in 1541 the
site was abandoned. A second (and permanent) settlement was established in
1580 by Juan de Garay, who arrived by sailing down the Paraná River from Asunción
(now the capital of Paraguay).
From its earliest days, the success of Buenos Aires depended on trade. During
most of the 17th and 18th centuries, Spain insisted that all trade to Europe pass
through Lima, Peru so that taxes could be collected. This scheme frustrated the
traders of Buenos Aires, and a thriving contraband industry developed.
Unsurprisingly, this also instilled a deep resentment in porteños towards Spanish
authorities.
Historically, Buenos Aires has been Argentina's main centre for liberal and free-trade
ideas, while many of the provinces, especially to the Northwest, advocated a more
conservative-Catholic approach to political and social issues. Many tensions within
Argentine history, starting with the centralist-federalist conflicts of the 19th century,
can be traced back to these contrasting views. In the months immediately following
the May 25 Revolution, Buenos Aires sent a number of military envoys to the
provinces, intended to obtain their approval: in many cases, the missions ended in
violent clashes, and even those which were militarily successful fueled the tensions
between the capital and the provinces.
PLACE TO VISIT
The Clara Chevalier Museum - is AR$ 3 and included a guided tour by
Ms. Chevalier herself (in spanish, but you will be able to understand each other with
a bit of spanish and english). She is a bit of an eccentric, but has a painting in Cafe
Tortoni. The museum includes her paintings, a recreation of her childhood bedroom
in the old home destroyed by autopista construction, and an old conventillo which
once housed six families. There is a copy of an old deed for the property, as well as
items such as a ticket printer from the old Boca railroad. You can get somewhat of
an idea of living was like back then, with the bathroom, although most of it is focused
on her paintings and her youth.
The Port - one of the defining images of BA is the brightly coloured houses
clustered by the port / river. Seems a bit "for the tourists", but travelling here gives you
a glimpse of the "other side" of BA beyond the elegance.
La Bombonera - the 60,000 capacity home of Boca Juniors - the most famous
football club in Argentina and club of it's most famous son - Diego Maradona. The
large crowd is loud and passionate - watching a match is not for the feint hearted.
Besides regular football matches, La Bombonera can be visited. You will be guided
through the changing rooms, the viewers areas and you will also spend some
moments on the very playing field.
Palermo Viejo - Old part of Palermo. Most of Palermo is filled with high
apartment buildings, Palermo Viejo is the only part of the district which has low
houses and a more "tranquilo" feel to it. It has also become extremely trendy with
many bars, restaurants and designer boutiques.
Palermo Viejo is a large area that can be further subdivided into Palermo Soho and
Palermo Hollywood. Palermo Hollywood is home to the trendiest restaurants in
Buenos Aires.
Jardin Botanico - Great place to go for a taste of Buenos Aires. The
quintessential "cat" garden is also filled with many flowers and a 19th century glass
house.
Palermo Las Canitas - The most exclusive and beautiful side of Palermo,
and even inside of this sub-neighborhood, there is "La Imprenta" a couple of city
blocks, with axe in migueletes and maure streets. Las Canitas remarks: It's an area
with lots of nice restaurants, parrillas (argentinean beef), sushi, specialized/ ethnical
restaurants (thai, mexican, greek, lyrical, custom, international, chinese, italian,
french, german, etc). Modern buildings, nice cars on the streets, upscale people, in
general it's quiet especially during daylights closer main avenues are libertador ave
and Luis Maria Campos. El solar de la abadia shopping mall has also cinema, food
court and cloth as any shopping mall. Outdoors close to Las Canitas: Golf course,
polo fields, race , palermo lakes, bosques de palermo (crossing libertador ave).
Recoleta Cemetery - an elegant last resting place for eminent residents. The
elaborate tombs were built above ground because the bodies would float to the
surface in the marshy land. Home to Eva Peron and other dignitaries. Tombs that
have fallen into disrepair are often not maintained, so be prepared a few coffins! Well
worth a visit.
National Fine Arts Museum - a top-notch museum - some well-known
impressionists are represented, including some wonderful Degas ballerinas. The
museum brings home to you the fact that BA was a rich part of the European
mainstream for much of its history.
Del Pilar Church - a beautiful church close to the cementery with a lot of history
Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral - is the main Catholic church in
Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is located in the city centre, overlooking Plaza de Mayo, on
the corner of San Martín and Rivadavia streets, in the San Nicolás neighbourhood. It
is the mother church of the Archdiocese of Buenos Aires. The Cathedral of Buenos
Aires was rebuilt several times since its humble origins in the 16th century. The
present building is a mix of architectural styles, with a 18th century nave and dome
and a severe, 19th century Neoclassical façade without towers. The interior keeps
precious 18th century statues and altarpieces, as well as abundant Neo-
Renaissance and Neo-Baroque decoration.
La Casa Rosada - officially known as the Casa de Gobierno ("Government
House") or Palacio Presidencial ("The Presidential Palace"), is the official seat of the
executive branch of the government of Argentina. (When not working at the Casa
Rosada, the president resides in a compound in Olivos, Buenos Aires.)
The Casa Rosada was built at the eastern end of the Plaza de Mayo, a large square
which since the founding of the city of Buenos Aires has contained the top political
institutions of Argentina. The current building, however, dates back only to 1873 and
was constructed over the foundations of an earlier customs house, post office, and
fortress
Buenos Aires Cabildo - is the public building in Buenos Aires that was used
as the government house during the colonial times of the Viceroyalty of the River
Plate. Today the building is used as a museum.
National Library of the Argentine Republic - is the largest library in
Argentina and one of the most important in the Americas. It is located in the barrio of
Recoleta in Buenos Aires.
The National Library was officially created by decree of the first Government Junta of
the May Revolution on 1810-09-07, with the name Biblioteca Pública de Buenos
Aires (Public Library of Buenos Aires), and its initial collection of books was gathered
from donations. Its first director, designated "Protector", was Mariano Moreno. The
name of the library was changed to its current form on 1884-10-05, when José
Antonio Wilde took over as director only three months before his death.
Recoleta Cultural Centre - is an exhibition and cultural events centre
located in the barrio of Recoleta, Buenos Aires, Argentina. It holds sculptures and
exhibitions, as well as concerts and artistic presentations and workshops of diverse
types. in September/October 2006 it held the wildly successful onedotzero festival
attracting over 20,000 people in 3 days for installations, live performances,
screenings and music.
Palace de Glace - is an historic French-style building in the Recoleta
neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina, built in 1910 and located at 1725
Posadas street. Originally built for ice skating, the building soon started hosting
tango events which caused protests among the bourgeois elite which later faded as
tango gained social acceptance as a new art form.
El Ateneo - is one of the city's most well-known bookshops situated in Santa Fé
Aveneue, Barrio Norte. Once a theatre and later a cinema, the building still retains
the feeling of the grand theatre it once was, despite its recent renovation.
Buenos Aires Zoo - covers 18 hectares in the neighbourhood of Palermo in
Buenos Aires, Argentina. The Zoo contains 89 species of mammals, 49 species of
reptiles and 175 species of birds, with a total of over 2,500 different animal species.
The institution's goals are to conserve species, produce research and educate the
public.
Luna Park - is an 8,000 seat arena located on the corner of Corrientes and
Leandro N. Alem Avenues, in the barrio of San Nicolás, east Buenos Aires city, and
near Puerto Madero. It is known for hosting sporting events (mainly boxing) and
music concerts. Begun in 1931 and completed in 1934 in the heart of the city, Luna
Park has hosted countless internationally famous personalities, including Pope
John Paul II, Julio Iglesias, Frank Sinatra, Luciano Pavarotti, Oasis, Jethro Tull, Deep
Purple, several ballets, tennis and volleyball matches, circuses, the Harlem
Globetrotters, Holiday on Ice, and many more.
Torre Espacial - or Torre Interama is a 228 metre high observation tower at
Buenos Aires, Argentina. The tower was built in 1980 in the Parque de la Ciudad
Amusement-Theme Park, and has observation decks at 220, 124 and 185 metres of
height. From the highest one it is possible to see the Uruguayan coast.
WHAT TO DO
Tango: A trip to Buenos Aires is not complete without some sort of experience of
the Tango, national dance of Argentina.
Tango is best experienced not in La Boca and on Calle Florida, but in the "Milongas".
A milonga is both a place where a Tango dance will take place, as well as a specific
type of tango dance. A good place for beginners to check out authentic tango is at
Confiteria Idéal at Suipacha 384 (just off of Corrientes, near Calle Florida). Parts of
Evita were filmed here. The ground floor is a confitéria with overpriced and bad
tasting food. However at night several times a week they have magnificent, authentic
shows for no more than 30 pesos. There is usually someone around who speaks
english if you don't understand the shows.
There is a monthly magazine put out in Buenos Aires called "El Tangauta". It is the
bible of everything Tango going on in Buenos Aires. Every group lesson and milonga
is in there. There is lots of advertising of instructors. Many if not all speak English.
Finding it can be hard but go around to some of the studios and you will find one.
Milongas take place either during the day or late at night. "Matinée Milongas" usually
start in the early afternoon and go until 8-10pm. Made popular by tourists who may
struggle staying up until 5am every night, you will find many locals here as well more
than willing to show you how to dance. the night Milongas officially start at around 11,
but don't fill up until around 1:30. They may go on until 5 or 6 in the morning. Don't be
surprised if you see 80 year old men who still have 3 times as much energy as you
do at that time.
Explore: Buenos Aires is definitely a walking city, with many diverse areas and
attractions all within close range of each other. Therefore an excellent way to explore
the city is on foot.
A really good hint to get to know the city of Buenos Aires in a different way is
Cicerones de Buenos Aires, a nonprofit organization that provides free tours and
travel assistance to visitors. During a tour, you´re accompanied by a resident of
Buenos Aires who can show you the popular spots of the city, as well as unique,
less-traveled ones.
HOW TO REACH
By Plane - Ezeiza International Airport :International and some domestic
flights use the Ezeiza International Airport (referred to as Aeropuerto Internacional
Ministro Pistarini), located in the suburban area named Gran Buenos Aires, about
30-45 minutes from downtown by highway. Planes fly to most countries in South
America, the United States, and Europe. Non-stop service to the U.S. is available
from Atlanta (Delta), Chicago (United and AA), Dallas (AA), Miami (AA), Houston
(Continental),New York (AA, United & AR) and Washington, D.C. (United).
Some flights from Aerolíneas Argentinas to Ushuaia leave from Ezeiza during peak
season, so check which airport you fly into or leave from.
The cheapest way to get downtown is to take the 86 bus. The stop is just outside
terminal B arrivals, you need to walk 100 meters. the bus will take almost 2 hours to
get to the Mayo square, going straight on Rivadavia Avenue an then on Hipolito
Yrigoyen street. It will cost less than 2 pesos to get downtown, and be ready to have
coins to use them on the bus, you may get some asking for change at the counters
where the airport tax is payed or at any shops. If planing to go form downtown to the
airport, be sure to ride the 86 bus that says "AEROPUERTO" as there are several 86
buses that go to other places. the bus stops all along Mayo Avenue and then
Rivadavia Avenue.
By train - There are national railways, but they are scarce. The terminal stations
are the same from suburban transportation. From Retiro station you can take the
train to the Tigre Delta. There you can do a boat cruise and see the wetland and
recreational area of the porteños.
There are some long distance domestic services. Buses are usually faster and
more comfortable, but also three times as expensive. There are several main
stations in the BA area (see below).
Retiro - Córdoba (overnight): departs Mon. & Fri. 20:10, arrives 10:25
Córdoba - Retiro (overnight): departs Thu. & Sun. 16:30, 07:33 (25 pesos - tourist
class)
Retiro - Tucumán (overnight): departs Mon. 10:05, arrives 10:40
Tucumán - Retiro (overnight): departs Wed. 18:00, arrives 19:20 (35 pesos - tourist
class)
By car - You can get to Buenos Aires from any of the neighboring countries by car,
but it is far away from most of the borders. It is only common to travel there from
Uruguay and southern Brazil.
There are four main highways entering the city, those permit fast communication
with the huge suburban area and access to the national routes. As with the trains,
the most important routes are centered in Buenos Aires, so you will have no problem
driving to and from the rest of the country.
Heading to Rosario city, you can travel by highway all the way (north access highway,
then route 9), from here you can keep going to the north by a good route
(Panamericana), or turn right about 150km from Buenos Aires and go to the
Mesopotamia region.
To the west, you can drive to the Cuyo region using the north access highway, then
the route 8.
By bus - There are very good services parting from Retiro bus station, covering
the whole country. By buying the most expensive tickets, you can get very comfortable
seats and on-board meals.
Almost all the long-distance buses use the huge and well-organised Retiro bus
station on the northern edge of the city centre. The buses are mostly modern and the
roads are good; there are frequent services to most parts of the country and
international bus services to neighbouring countries.
You may catch taxis from Retiro bus station, and the subte (underground) also stops
there. There are many local buses that stop outside the station as well.
