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| SINGAPORE TRAVEL GUIDE Singapore is an island-state in Southeast Asia, connected by bridges to Malaysia. Founded as a British trading colony in 1819, since independence it has become one of the world's most prosperous countries and sports the world's busiest port. Combining the skyscrapers and subways of a modern, affluent city with a medley of Chinese, Indian and Malay influences and a tropical climate, with tasty food, good shopping and a vibrant nightlife scene, this Garden City makes a great stopover or springboard into the region. The British East India Company established a trading post on the island in 1819. The main settlement up to that point was a Malay fishing village at the mouth of the Singapore River. Several hundred indigenous Orang Laut people also lived around the coast, rivers and smaller islands. The British used Singapore as a strategic trading post along the spice route It became one of the most important commercial and military centres of the British Empire. Winston Churchill called it "Britain's greatest defeat" when it was occupied by the Japanese during World War II. Singapore reverted to British rule in 1945. In 1963, it merged with Malaya, Sabah and Sarawak to form Malaysia. Less than two years later it split from the federation and became an independent republic on 9 August 1965. Singapore joined the United Nations on September 21 that same year. Since independence, Singapore's standard of living has increased. A state-led industrialization drive, aided by foreign direct investment has created a modern economy based on electronics manufacturing, petrochemicals, tourism and financial services alongside the traditional entrepôt trade. Singapore is the 17th wealthiest country in the world in terms of GDP per capita. The small nation has a foreign reserve of S$222 billion (US$147 billion). The name Singapura comes from the Sanskrit words singa ("lion") and pura ("city"). According to the Malay Annals, this name was given by a 14th century Sumatran prince named Sang Nila Utama, who, landing on the island after a thunderstorm, spotted an auspicious beast on the shore that his chief minister identified as a lion. Recent studies of Singapore indicate that lions have never lived there (not even Asiatic lions), and the beast seen by Sang Nila Utama was likely a tiger, most likely the Malayan Tiger. The first records of settlement in Singapore are from the second century AD. The island was an outpost of the Sumatran Srivijaya empire and originally had the Javanese name Temasek ('sea town'). Temasek (Tumasek) rapidly became a significant trading settlement, but declined in the late 14th century. There are few remnants of old Temasek in Singapore, but archaeologists in Singapore have uncovered artifacts of that and other settlements. Between the 16th and early 19th centuries, Singapore island was part of the Sultanate of Johor. During the Malay-Portugal wars in 1613, the settlement was set ablaze by Portuguese troops. The Portuguese subsequently held control in that century and the Dutch in the 17th, but throughout most of this time the island's population consisted mainly of fishermen. The early onset of town planning in colonial Singapore came largely through a "divide and rule" framework where the different ethnic groups were settled in different parts of the South of the island. The Singapore River was largely a commercial area that was dominated by traders and bankers of various ethnic groups with mostly Chinese and Indian coolies working to load and unload goods from barge boats known locally as "bumboats". The Malays, consisting of the local "Orang Lauts" who worked mostly as fishermen and sea-farers, and Arab traders and scholars were mostly found in the South- east part of the river mouth, where Kampong Glam stands today. The European settlers, who were few then, settled around Fort Canning Hill and further upstream from the Singapore River. Like the Europeans, the early Indian migrants also settled more inland of the Singapore River, where Little India stands today. Very little is known about the rural private settlements in those times (known as kampongs), other than the major move by the post-independent Singapore government to re-settle these residents in the late 1960s. GENERAL INFORMATION Capital Singapore City City status July 24, 1951 Area 704.0 km² Population 4,680,600 Density 6,369.2/km² Currency Singapore dollar PLACE TO VISIT Merlion - Singapore's official symbol, 8.6 meters tall and weighing 70 tons, spouts water daily on the south bank of the mouth of the Singapore river. (The statue previously resided further down the river, but was moved in 2002 after the opening of the Esplanade Bridge.) Designed by the Singapore Tourist Promotion Board in 1964, many a commentator has pondered on the inherent contradictions of a creature that is half-cat, half-fish — much like Singapore itself. Singaporeas themselves regard the monument as a bit of a joke, and indeed in Singaporean slang the verb to merlion means "to vomit"! But any time of night or day, a steady stream of tourists troops up to see the mythical beast, and a purpose-built pier lets you take pictures with the Merlion and the CBD in the background. When paying your respects, don't miss the bite-sized Mini-Merlion (officially the "Merlion cub"), a mere two meters tall, just 28m away towards the bridge. Free. Cavenagh Bridge - Singapore's oldest bridge and its only suspension bridge, constructed in 1869, now a pedestrian walkway across the mouth of the Singapore River. Note the original sign forbidding cattle to cross. Raffles Statue - This statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, is built on the (supposed) exact spot where he first landed. Second only to the Merlion as most popular place in Singapore to take a picture of yourself, and having the skyscrapers and the shophouses of Boat Quay in the background helps to explain why! The statue here is actually a replica; the original can be found in front of the Victoria Theatre. Asian Civilisations Museum - One of Singapore's newest, largest and best- presented museums. As the name hints, all of Asia is covered in the scope, although naturally there is an emphasis on the cultures near and in Singapore. Note that ACM's second branch at Armenian St was closed permanently in 2005. A new Peranakan Museum will take its place, but will not open before 2008. $5, free on Friday evenings. Battle Box - The former HQ of the British army during World War 2, now turned into an air-conditioned museum complete with animatronic figures retelling the events of the days before surrender. Nearest MRT station Dhoby Ghaut, but it's a steamy hike up the hill. $8. National Museum of Singapore - Formerly Singapore History Museum, recently reopened with a new Singapore History Gallery, four Living galleries and a brand new extension. The main building has been restored to its near-original state and lifts and escalators are now present in the building. F&B outlets are also available now. Hosts temporary exhibitions every now and then. $10, free 6-9PM. Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho - Dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy. According to legend wishes made in here come true, which would explain why it's always packed. The procedure goes like this: enter, light some joss sticks, pray, then shake a container of cham si (bamboo sticks) until one falls out. Get a free matching slip with verses (also in English) explaining your fate, and maybe take it to one of the resident soothsayers for more explanation. Free, although voluntary donations are accepted. Malay Heritage Centre - Set on the grounds of beautifully restored Istana Kampong Glam, the site looks gorgeous from the outside but, despite some half-hearted attempts at whiz-bang multimedia, the museum inside is rather disappointing. Free entry onto the grounds, $3 for the museum. Sultan Mosque = Also known as Masjid Sultan and the largest mosque in Singapore, the building is easily identified thanks to its golden domes, but there's not much to see inside. Note that shorts, short skirts or sleeveless T-shirts are not permissible attire, but you can borrow a cloak if needed. Free. Hajjah Fatimah Mosque - Also known as Masjid Hajjah Fatimah, it is probably Singapore's second most important mosque historically after Sultan Mosque. It was named after an aristocratic Malay woman who donated money to build it. Its design is a mix of local Malay Muslim and colonial British architecture. This minaret tower is also worth a look as it leans slightly off-centre towards the main prayer hall. As with all mosques, revealing clothing should be avoided. Free. Sri Krishnan - A Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Right next door to Kuan Yin Thong Hood Cho, and there's a steady stream of Chinese visitors hedging their bets by making offerings to the Hindu gods too. Free. Buddha Tooth Relic Temple - Towering above southern Chinatown, this four- story temple was completed only in 2007. The imposing main hall hosts a 27-foot statue of Maitreya Buddha, and the sacred relic itself, reputedly one of Buddha Shakyamuni's teeth, can be found on the fourth floor (visible only during daily ceremonies Jamae Mosque -. One of Singapore's oldest mosques, built in the 1830s by Tamil Muslims in an Indian style. Note the stepped minarets outside. Free. Sri Mariamman Temple - Singapore's oldest and most important Hindu temple and worth a visit for the intricately carved gopuram (statuary above the entrance), which gave adjacent "Pagoda Street" its name. This is an active temple, so take off your shoes and don't disturb the worshippers. Free, but photo/video permit $3/6. Thian Hock Keng Temple - The oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore, dating back to 1821, although the structure was thoroughly refurbished in 2000. The brightly colored, elaborate facade was constructed with ironwork from Scotland, tiles from England and the Netherlands, and dragon-ornamented granite pillars from China. Free. Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple - Little India's busiest and oldest temple, dating back to 1881 — although the present structure was completed in 1986. The temple is particularly busy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Be sure to take your shoes off before venturing inside. Free. Sasanaramsi Burmese Buddhist Temple - Completed in 1990, this is the world's first and only Burmese temple outside Burma itself, equipped with an eye- catching golden spire. Inside, the most remarkable features for the lay visitor are the Buddha statues enhanced with swirling LED halos; be sure to climb up to the third floor to see the largest and most stunning of the lot. Free. Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall - Built in the late 1800s as Wan Qing Yuan , the villa was offered in 1906 to Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat Sen, who stayed here eight times while in exile. The villa has been lovingly restored and was reopened to the public in 2001, but the contents of the museum inside are a little dull unless you have a keen interest and solid background in Chinese history. $3. Singapore Zoo - One of the best zoos in Asia, if not the world — it was endorsed by the late Steve Irwin and Animal Planet uses it for some of its documentaries. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. It is home to Ah Meng, a popular orangutan, and Inuka, the first polar bear born in the tropics (although the polar bears are scheduled to be shipped off to cooler climes). To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little train that trundles through the park. $14. Night Safari - A part of the Zoo but located on completely separate grounds that are closed during the day, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The grounds are in fact larger than the main Zoo and only parts are accessible to visitors on foot, so most people opt for the guided tram tour instead. There is a 30 minute show at the amphitheater with trained animal displays three times per night. (Sit in the center section three rows from the front for a nice surprise.) The tram tour is highly recommended unless you have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you the eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a walking path (The Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others. Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you can expect to see include are various types of tigers, elephants, bats, flamingos, porcupines, leopards, otters, badgers, and storks. Entry $18, tram $6. Jurong BirdPark - A 20.2 hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it, birds in all shapes and sizes. The Park specialises in birds from Southeast Asia and the more exotic and colorful tropical birds, and its collection of more than 8,000 birds from 600 species is among the largest in the world. The park is attractively presented and quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. To ease the pain of slogging around in the tropical heat, you can circle the park with the Panorail monorail. $Entry 14, monorail $4. Botanic Gardens - Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens. Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. The main entrance is on Bukit Timah Road. Free. National Orchid Garden - This is where you can spot Singapore's national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car, parking at the visitor's center. $2. Haw Par Villa - Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values. The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body dismembered and your intestines pulled out Labrador Secret Tunnels - Opened in May 2005, there are two ways of looking at these two restored British-era bunkers: either they're done a pretty good job of making a tunnel interesting, or even if you dress it up with spot lights and recorded booms, it's still just a bunch of tunnels. $8/5 adult/child. Reflections at Bukit Chandu -. Small but well-implemented commemorative museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu. Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here. If visiting here, make a short detour to the free Canopy Walk next door, an elevated footpath through the jungle offering nice views of Singapore's heartlands. $2. Changi Chapel and Museum - Singapore's memorial to the notorious WW2 Japanese POW camp, the setting of James Clavell's King Rat. The current site is a reconstruction and in a different location, but contains a replica of the original chapel and informative exhibits about the squalid conditions of the prison. Free. Sengkang LRT - For the transport enthusiast or those interested in seeing the housing in which many Singaporeans live, the light rail is well worth a ride, as it traverses past row upon row of unit blocks. On the West Loop, detour to Jalan Kayu from LRT Thanggam station for some of Singapore's best prata (see Eat). Up to $1.10. Carlsberg Sky Tower -. Asia's tallest observation tower. It takes you up to a height of 131m above sealevel and offers a 360-degree view of Sentosa, Singapore and the Southern islands. On clear days the outlines of Malaysia and Indonesia can be seen. $10/7 adult/child. Fort Siloso - Formerly the largest British naval base in Fortress Singapore, its guns staring balefully out towards the sea in preparation for enemy attack. The Japanese rode bikes down the peninsula instead; after your visit here, be sure to visit the Battle Box at Fort Canning Hill to find out what happened next. Now turned into a museum, you can follow a tour through the area (complete with lots of wax figures) to find out what the life of a recruit was like. Nearly doubled in size in 2004. $8/5 adult/child. Sentosa Merlion - A stretched-out 37-metre version of the statue by the Singapore River, which is lit up at night and shoots lasers from its eyes. Admission enables you to take the elevator up into its mouth and gaze out over the nearby Port of Singapore, as well as experience some seriously cheesy exhibits downstairs. $8/5 adult/child. WHAT TO DO While you can find a place to practice nearly any sport in Singapore — golfing, surfing, scuba diving, even ice skating — due to the country's small size your options are rather limited and prices are relatively high. For watersports in particular, the busy shipping lanes and sheer population pressure mean that the sea around Singapore is murky, and most locals head up to Tioman (Malaysia) or Bintan (Indonesia) instead. See also Habitatnews and WildSingapore for news and updates about free tours and events. Singapore has recently been experiencing a spa boom, and there is now plenty of choice for everything from holistic Ayurveda to green tea hydrotherapy. However, prices aren't as rock-bottom as in neighbors Indonesia and Thailand, and you'll generally be looking at upwards of $70 even for a plain one-hour massage. Good spas can be found in most five- star hotels and on Orchard, and Sentosa's Spa Botanica also has a good reputation. There are also numerous shops offering traditional Chinese massage, which are mostly legit, and "health centres", which are mostly not. On the cultural side of things, Singapore has been trying loosen up and attract more artists and performances. The star in Singapore's cultural sky is the Esplanade theatre by the Riverside, a world-class facility for performing arts like classical music and the home of the Singapore Symphony Orchestra . Pop culture options are more limited and Singapore's home-grown arts scene remains rather moribund, but any bands and DJs touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to perform in Singapore. In summer, don't miss the yearly Singapore Arts Festival . Advance tickets for almost any cultural event can be purchased from SISTIC , either online or from any of their numerous ticketing outlets, including the Singapore Visitor Centre on Orchard Rd. HOW TO REACH By plane - Singapore is one of southeast Asia's largest aviation hubs, so unless you're coming from Peninsular Malaysia or Batam/Bintan in Indonesia, the easiest way to enter Singapore is by air. In addition to flagship carrier Singapore Airlines and its regional subsidiary SilkAir , Singapore is also home to Tiger Airways , and Jetstar Asia , which took over Valuair. In addition to the locals, every carrier of any size in Asia offers flights to Singapore, and there are direct services to Europe, the Middle East, Australia, New Zealand, North America, and even South Africa. Within Asia, Singapore also has excellent connections to the more important cities, particularly those in Indonesia, Thailand, China and India. Changi Airport - As befits the country's main airport and major regional hub status, Changi Airport (SIN) is big, nice, and well organized, and immigration and baggage distribution is remarkably fast. The airport is split three main terminals (T1, T2 and T3) plus a dedicated Budget Terminal for low-cost airlines (currently only Tiger and Cebu Pacific). Seletar Airport - Seletar is Singapore's first civil aviation airport. While later airports like Kallang and Paya Lebar have been closed and turned into a military airbase respectively, Seletar is still in use to this day. Berjaya Air flights to the Malaysian islands of Redang and Tioman use Seletar (XSP), not Changi (SIN). The only practical means of access to Seletar is taxi; trips from the airport incur a $3 surcharge. Seletar is also Singapore's private aviation airport so if you own a private jet, you will most likely land here. By road - Singapore is linked by two land crossings to Peninsular Malaysia: The Causeway is a very popular and thus terminally congested entry point connecting Woodlands in the north of Singapore directly into the heart of Johor Bahru. While congestion isn't as bad as it once was, the Causeway is still jam-packed on Friday evenings (towards Malaysia) and Sunday evenings (towards Singapore). The Causeway can be crossed by bus, train, taxi, car or foot. A second crossing between Malaysia and Singapore, known as the Second Link, has been built between Tuas in western Singapore and Tanjung Kupang in the western part of Johor state. Much faster and less congested than the Causeway, it is used by some of the luxury bus services to Kuala Lumpur and is strongly recommended if you have your own car. There is no public transport across the Second Link, and only Malaysian "limousine" taxis are allowed to cross it (and charge RM150 and up for the privilege). Walking across is also not allowed, not that there would be any practical means to continue the journey from either end if you did. By bus - Direct to/from Malaysian destinations There are buses to/from Kuala Lumpur (KL) and many other destinations in Malaysia through the Woodlands Checkpoint and the Second Link at Tuas. Unfortunately, there is no central bus terminal and different companies leave from all over the city. By train - Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu (Malayan Railway or KTMB) network. It runs two day trains (the Ekspres Sinaran Pagi and Ekspres Rakyat) and a sleeper service (Ekspres Senandung Malam) daily from Kuala Lumpur. From Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, the Sinaran Pagi departs at 08:40, the Ekspres Rakyat at 13:00 and the Senandung Malam at 22:15. There is also a day train (the Lambaian Timur departing Singapore at 06:00) and sleeper (Ekspres Timuran departing at 18:15) daily along the "Jungle Railway" between Singapore and Tumpat, near Kota Bharu in the East Coast of Malaysia. Trains are clean and fairly efficient, but slower than buses. By boat - Ferries link Singapore with neighbouring Indonesian province of Riau Islands, and the Malaysian state of Johor (regular ferry services to Tioman Island were discontinued late in 2003). Singapore has four ferry terminals which handle international ferries: HarbourFront (formerly World Trade Centre) near the southern part of the Central Business District, Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal on the East Coast, as well as Changi Ferry Terminal and Changi Point Ferry Terminal, at the eastern extremity of the island. Cruise ships use the HarbourFront terminal. HarbourFront and Tanah Merah are managed and operated by the Singapore Cruise Centre |