Bangkok is the capital of Thailand and by far its largest city with an estimated population
of over 10 million. The western bank is locally referred to as 'Fung Thon' or Thon side
whilst the eastern side which pertains the majority of Bangkokians is called subjectively
as Krung Thep, the name of the city itself.
Bangkok is a magnet for foreigners escaping turmoil in their homeland or simply for
business. It has long been the gateway to Asia for foreign interests seeking new markets.
The city is a major economic and financial center of Southeast Asia and has one of the
fastest rates in the world for construction of high rise buildings. The city's wealth of
cultural sites makes it one of the world's most popular tourist destinations. The capital is
part of the heavily urbanized triangle of central and eastern region of Thailand which
stretches from Nakhon Ratchasima along Bangkok to the industrialized eastern
seaboard. This urbanized area pertains 20 million registered Thais in addition to millions
of illegal aliens searching for work in the most prosperous region in Indochina.
Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in
Asia. A furious assault on the senses, the first things that impress many visitors are the
heat, the congestion both on streets and sidewalks, the pollution inherent to rapid
development, the squalor that accompanies a gaping chasm between rich and poor, and
the irrepressible smiles of the Thais. Despite the sensationalized international news
reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe, more organized than it initially
appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and
warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and
delicious fruit everywhere. Thai cuisine is singular, justifiably famous, varied, and
affordable. Bangkok, for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed
monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets,
traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to
leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
The town of Bangkok began as a small trading center and port community on the west
bank of the Chao Phraya River serving the Ayutthaya Kingdom, the precursor of modern
Thailand which existed from 1350 to 1767. It is believed that the town's name derived
from either Bang Makok, bang being the Central Thai name for towns or villages situated
on the bank of a river, and makok being the Thai name of either Spondias pinnata,
Spondias mombin or Elaeocarpus hygrophilus (plants producing olive-like fruits), or
Bang Koh, koh meaning "island," a reference to the area's landscape which was carved
by rivers and canals.
After the fall of Ayutthaya to the Burmese Kingdom in 1767, the newly declared King
Taksin established a new capital in the area of then-Bangkok, which became known as
Thonburi. When Taksin's reign ended in 1782, King Buddha Yodfa Chulaloke
reconstructed the capital on the east bank of the river and gave the city a ceremonial
name (see below) which became shortened to its current official name, Krung Thep
Maha Nakhon (which, similarly to "Los Angeles" means "city of angels"). The new city,
however, also inherited the name Bangkok, which continued to be used by foreigners to
refer to the entire city and became its official English name, while in Thai the name still
refers only to the old district on the west bank of the river. The city has since vastly
modernized and undergone numerous changes, including the introduction of
transportation and utility infrastructure in the reigns of King Mongkut and King
Chulalongkorn, and quickly developed into the economic center of Thailand.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Country Thailand
Settled Ayutthaya Period
Founded as capital 21 April 1782
Area 1,568.737 km² (605.7 sq mi)
Population 5,714,481
Density 3,643.97/km² (9,437.8/sq mi)
PLACE TO VISIT
Siam Square - would like to be the Times Square of Bangkok, and it does a pretty
good job. Despite the name this is in fact a warren of small sois filled with tiny shops and
restaurants, mostly catering to upper class Thais, shopping-spree Malaysians, and
working ex-pats (as opposed to your usual lay-about ex-pats). If you're not up for a trip to
the Gap or a pink martini, it's still worth a visit just to see Bangkok-of-the-Future. The four
movie theaters in the area are a good night out. You get a few hours in a plush theater
house - complete with air-con and assigned seats (170/190 baht). Hollywood and Asian
blockbusters are featured nightly, all with the mandatory standing ovation to the king.
Jim Thompson's House - Soi Kasemsan 2 (near National Stadium BTS
Station). Full of silk and mystery as well as a good dose of Thai history. The infamous
OSS/CIA operative and father of the modern Thai silk industry had this house assembled
from six traditional Thai-style houses. The tour costs 100 baht a head, but it's the only way
to see the complex. Open 09:00-17:00 daily, get there early to beat the heat.
Erawan Shrine - is at the intersection of Ploenchit and Ratchaprarop. Built to
appease the spirits after a series of construction accidents occurred when the nearby
Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel was being built, it's a small but photogenic and perennially
packed shrine dedicated to Brahma (Phra Phrom) and named after his elephant, teak
models of which are a popular donation. During the day you can see traditional Thai
dancing.
Traditional Thai Puppet Theatre - Company has performances each night
from 19.30-20.45 in their theatre located in the midst of the Suan Lum Night Bazaar
(Subway Lumphini). Admission is 300 baht for a regular seat and a little more for a V.I.P.
seat, but there is not much difference between the two, and you can get a regular seat in
the front if you buy your ticket early. The show is in Thai with translations into English, and
there is a segment where the puppets interact with audience members that is popular
with children.
Temple of Dawn - Across the river from Wat Po on the Thonburi side, this is a
distinctive single spike of white intricately inlaid with broken porcelain. At 88 meters it was
also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper.
Wat Rajanadda - Somewhat off the beaten track but well worth a visit, very close to
the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden Mount, and easily spotted since its
spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. The wat itself is a 5-storied gleaming
white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and
relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. Entrance is free; also check out the Buddhist
amulet market nearby.
The Golden Mount - is a distinctive and prominent feature on the Rattanakosin
landscape located in the compound of Wat Srakes. The original structure was built in the
reign of King Rama III during the early 19th century, but was enhanced at the end of that
century in order to accommodate relics of the Buddha presented to the King of Thailand
by the British Viceroy in India. A spiral staircase of 318 steps leads from the ground to a
terrace and shrine-room - the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf covered shrine at
the center of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an ancient structure that creates
an atmosphere worthy of respect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fair ground
than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites. Also, the harsh way of
requsting the entrance fee does little to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveler. In short, the
shrine is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not expect a quiet and
respectful environment.
National Gallery - Th Chao Fa Fairly small and compact, the permanent displays
here are quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art exhibitions can be
considerably more interesting
National Museum Naphra That The grounds are attractive in parts, but a bit
sprawling and difficult to navigate without a guide. The permanent exhibits are a mixed
bag - there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other
buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation.
Saranrom Park - Sanam Chai Road (across from the Grand Palace). A lush garden
created around a lake and home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A
great place to relax and escape the heat.
Victory Monument - Constructed in 1941 after the French Indochina War to
commemorate those who lost their lives, this spiky Bangkok landmark is now better
known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If traveling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated
to a 180-degree curving panorama of the Monument, and this is the best view you can get
as actually reaching the base of the monument would require passing through a triple-
laned traffic circle maelstrom of buses.
Grand Palace - is a complex of buildings in Bangkok, Thailand. It served as the
official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century.
After the death of King Ananda Mahidol in the Baromphiman Palace, King Bhumibol
moved the official royal residence to Chitralada Palace. Construction of the palace
complex began in 1782, during the reign of Rama I.
Wat Pho - or The Temple of the Reclining Buddha, is a Buddhist temple in Phra
Nakhon district, Bangkok, Thailand, located in the Rattanakosin district directly adjacent
to the Grand Palace. Its official full name is Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimolmangklararm
Rajwaramahaviharn The temple is also known as the birthplace of traditional Thai
massage.
Wat Arun - Temple of the Dawn, perhaps so named because the first light of morning
is reflected off the surface of the temple with a pearly irridescence) is a buddhist temple
(wat) in Bangkok, Thailand. The temple is located in the Bangkok Yai district, on the west
bank of the Chao Phraya River.
Chitralada Palace - is the Bangkok residence of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama
IX) and Queen Sirikit. King Bhumibol was the first king in the Chakri dynasty to live in the
Chitralda Palace. He moved in there after the mysterious death of his older brother, King
Rama VIII in the Grand Palace. The palace grounds contain the Chitralada School, initially
established for the children of the royal family.
Wat Suthat Thepwararam - is a royal temple of the first grade, one of six such
temples in Thailand. Construction was begun by His Majesty King Rama I in 1807 (B.E.
2350). Further construction and decorations were carried out by King Rama II who helped
carve the wooden doors, but the temple was not completed until the reign of King Rama
III in 1847 (B.E.2390). This temple contains the Buddha image Phra Sri Sakyamuni or "Sisakayamunee" which moved from Sukhothai province
Wat Saket Ratcha Wora Maha Wihan - is a Buddhist temple (Wat) in Pom
Prap Sattru Phai district, Bangkok, Thailand.
The temple dates back to Ayutthaya era, when it was called Wat Sakae. King Rama I
renovated the temple and renamed it to Wat Saket. During the reign of King Rama III the
Chedi Phu Khao Thong was added to the temple. It was finished under King Rama V
and then named Suwannabanphot. This building has become one of most popular the
touristical places in Bangkok, however the other buildings of the temple are much less
visited.
WHAT TO DO
Go cycling! It may sound crazy, but it certainly is not. Away from the main roads there is a
fast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can
use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet
residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the
sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot combined
with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze when cycling.
Bangkok is an extremely popular place for all sorts of pampering. The options available
range from massages and spa treatments to haircuts and manicures and even cosmetic
surgery, all at prices far lower than in the West.
Independent spas offer much the same experience but are a little more competitive due
to the lack of a captive customer base. Figure on 1000 baht and up per hour for most
treatments.
The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street corner in town offer the best
value for money but the smallest range of services, with offerings usually limited to
massage only. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate massage shops from more
dubious places: the real deal will charge 250-400 baht for a typical two-hour massage
and will often have a row of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on
customers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy things in evening dresses
and too much makeup yelling "hello handsome" at every passing male.
A cruise down the Chao Praya River is a nice way to spend a day here in Bangkok. A tour
called Five Temples, Five Era Chao Praya River Cruise offer by Truly Yours Tour will take
you to explore the history of Thai temples around the river each last Sunday of the Month.
The tour mainly visite 5 temples and explain the historical significant by a lecturer.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Bangkok now has two airports operating. Allow at least three hours to
connect between them.
Suvarnabhumi Airport Located 30 kilometres (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-
age Suvarnabhumi Airport started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's
main airport, used by all international flights as well as all Bangkok Airways (PG), Air Asia
(FD), SGA Airline (5E), PBair (9Q) and some Thai Airways domestic flights. There is only
one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it's huge
(by some measures the world's largest) so allow time for getting around.
Don Muang Airport 20 km north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport handles Nok Air, 1-2-Go domestic flights and most Thai Airways domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.
The public taxi stand is located on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled
by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into
town — it's also your only option after 11 PM. Give your destination (English is
understood) and you will receive a two-part ticket at the booth. The charge into town will
be the meter + 50 baht + toll if you take the expressway (recommended, 30-70 baht), for a
usual total of 200-300 baht. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This
ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid
arguments later. The trip into town takes 30 minutes and up depending on traffic
conditions.
By bus - Bangkok's three official long haul bus terminals are: Eastern Bus Terminal -
also known as Ekamai, this relatively compact terminal is located right next to Ekamai
BTS station on Sukhumvit (E7). Ekamai serves Eastern Thailand destinations, including
Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe, Chanthaburi and Trat.
North & North Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Moh Chit (or Mor Chit or Morchit), this is the largest, busiest, and most modern terminal. The upper floor serves the North- East (Isaan); the ground floor serves the North, as well as sharing some destinations with Ekamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). It's a 30-baht moto hop (or a lengthy hike across Chatuchak Park) from BTS Moh Chit
Southern Bus Terminal - also known as Sai Tai Mai, this older and relatively chaotic
sprawling terminal serves all points west and south from its somewhat inconvenient
location on the "wrong" side of the river. The terminal has been moved to a new, even
more remote location in Phutthamonthon Sai 1 — enquire locally.
By ship - Cruise ships visiting Bangkok arrive at Laem Chabang, about 90 minutes
south-east of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya.
A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices - a whopping
2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus
(usually 11 passenger seats), for a trip into Bangkok. Slightly lower prices can be found
by walking out to the main road (about 4000 baht for a minibus), however even these
rates are almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be
possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).
