Singapore is an island-state in Southeast Asia, connected by bridges to Malaysia.
Founded as a British trading colony in 1819, since independence it has become one of
the world's most prosperous countries and sports the world's busiest port. Combining
the skyscrapers and subways of a modern, affluent city with a medley of Chinese, Indian
and Malay influences and a tropical climate, with tasty food, good shopping and a vibrant
nightlife scene, this Garden City makes a great stopover or springboard into the region.
The British East India Company established a trading post on the island in 1819. The
main settlement up to that point was a Malay fishing village at the mouth of the Singapore
River. Several hundred indigenous Orang Laut people also lived around the coast, rivers
and smaller islands. The British used Singapore as a strategic trading post along the
spice route
It became one of the most important commercial and military centres of the British
Empire. Winston Churchill called it "Britain's greatest defeat" when it was occupied by the
Japanese during World War II. Singapore reverted to British rule in 1945. In 1963, it
merged with Malaya, Sabah and Sarawak to form Malaysia. Less than two years later it
split from the federation and became an independent republic on 9 August 1965.
Singapore joined the United Nations on September 21 that same year.
Since independence, Singapore's standard of living has increased. A state-led
industrialization drive, aided by foreign direct investment has created a modern economy
based on electronics manufacturing, petrochemicals, tourism and financial services
alongside the traditional entrepôt trade. Singapore is the 17th wealthiest country in the
world in terms of GDP per capita. The small nation has a foreign reserve of S$222 billion
(US$147 billion).
The name Singapura comes from the Sanskrit words singa ("lion") and pura ("city").
According to the Malay Annals, this name was given by a 14th century Sumatran prince
named Sang Nila Utama, who, landing on the island after a thunderstorm, spotted an
auspicious beast on the shore that his chief minister identified as a lion. Recent studies
of Singapore indicate that lions have never lived there (not even Asiatic lions), and the
beast seen by Sang Nila Utama was likely a tiger, most likely the Malayan Tiger.
The first records of settlement in Singapore are from the second century AD. The island
was an outpost of the Sumatran Srivijaya empire and originally had the Javanese name
Temasek ('sea town'). Temasek (Tumasek) rapidly became a significant trading
settlement, but declined in the late 14th century. There are few remnants of old Temasek
in Singapore, but archaeologists in Singapore have uncovered artifacts of that and other
settlements. Between the 16th and early 19th centuries, Singapore island was part of the
Sultanate of Johor. During the Malay-Portugal wars in 1613, the settlement was set
ablaze by Portuguese troops. The Portuguese subsequently held control in that century
and the Dutch in the 17th, but throughout most of this time the island's population
consisted mainly of fishermen.
The early onset of town planning in colonial Singapore came largely through a "divide and
rule" framework where the different ethnic groups were settled in different parts of the
South of the island. The Singapore River was largely a commercial area that was
dominated by traders and bankers of various ethnic groups with mostly Chinese and
Indian coolies working to load and unload goods from barge boats known locally as
"bumboats". The Malays, consisting of the local "Orang Lauts" who worked mostly as
fishermen and sea-farers, and Arab traders and scholars were mostly found in the South-
east part of the river mouth, where Kampong Glam stands today. The European settlers,
who were few then, settled around Fort Canning Hill and further upstream from the
Singapore River. Like the Europeans, the early Indian migrants also settled more inland
of the Singapore River, where Little India stands today. Very little is known about the rural
private settlements in those times (known as kampongs), other than the major move by
the post-independent Singapore government to re-settle these residents in the late
1960s.
PLACE TO VISIT
Merlion - Singapore's official symbol, 8.6 meters tall and weighing 70 tons, spouts
water daily on the south bank of the mouth of the Singapore river. (The statue previously
resided further down the river, but was moved in 2002 after the opening of the Esplanade
Bridge.) Designed by the Singapore Tourist Promotion Board in 1964, many a
commentator has pondered on the inherent contradictions of a creature that is half-cat,
half-fish — much like Singapore itself. Singaporeas themselves regard the monument as
a bit of a joke, and indeed in Singaporean slang the verb to merlion means "to vomit"! But
any time of night or day, a steady stream of tourists troops up to see the mythical beast,
and a purpose-built pier lets you take pictures with the Merlion and the CBD in the
background. When paying your respects, don't miss the bite-sized Mini-Merlion (officially
the "Merlion cub"), a mere two meters tall, just 28m away towards the bridge. Free.
Cavenagh Bridge - Singapore's oldest bridge and its only suspension bridge,
constructed in 1869, now a pedestrian walkway across the mouth of the Singapore River.
Note the original sign forbidding cattle to cross.
Raffles Statue - This statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, is built
on the (supposed) exact spot where he first landed. Second only to the Merlion as most
popular place in Singapore to take a picture of yourself, and having the skyscrapers and
the shophouses of Boat Quay in the background helps to explain why! The statue here is
actually a replica; the original can be found in front of the Victoria Theatre.
Asian Civilisations Museum - One of Singapore's newest, largest and best-
presented museums. As the name hints, all of Asia is covered in the scope, although
naturally there is an emphasis on the cultures near and in Singapore. Note that ACM's
second branch at Armenian St was closed permanently in 2005. A new Peranakan
Museum will take its place, but will not open before 2008. $5, free on Friday evenings.
Battle Box - The former HQ of the British army during World War 2, now turned into
an air-conditioned museum complete with animatronic figures retelling the events of the
days before surrender. Nearest MRT station Dhoby Ghaut, but it's a steamy hike up the
hill. $8.
National Museum of Singapore - Formerly Singapore History Museum,
recently reopened with a new Singapore History Gallery, four Living galleries and a brand
new extension. The main building has been restored to its near-original state and lifts
and escalators are now present in the building. F&B outlets are also available now.
Hosts temporary exhibitions every now and then. $10, free 6-9PM.
Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho - Dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.
According to legend wishes made in here come true, which would explain why it's always
packed. The procedure goes like this: enter, light some joss sticks, pray, then shake a
container of cham si (bamboo sticks) until one falls out. Get a free matching slip with
verses (also in English) explaining your fate, and maybe take it to one of the resident
soothsayers for more explanation. Free, although voluntary donations are accepted.
Malay Heritage Centre - Set on the grounds of beautifully restored Istana
Kampong Glam, the site looks gorgeous from the outside but, despite some half-hearted
attempts at whiz-bang multimedia, the museum inside is rather disappointing. Free entry
onto the grounds, $3 for the museum.
Sultan Mosque = Also known as Masjid Sultan and the largest mosque in
Singapore, the building is easily identified thanks to its golden domes, but there's not
much to see inside. Note that shorts, short skirts or sleeveless T-shirts are not
permissible attire, but you can borrow a cloak if needed. Free.
Hajjah Fatimah Mosque - Also known as Masjid Hajjah Fatimah, it is probably
Singapore's second most important mosque historically after Sultan Mosque. It was
named after an aristocratic Malay woman who donated money to build it. Its design is a
mix of local Malay Muslim and colonial British architecture. This minaret tower is also
worth a look as it leans slightly off-centre towards the main prayer hall. As with all
mosques, revealing clothing should be avoided. Free.
Sri Krishnan - A Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu. Right next door to Kuan Yin
Thong Hood Cho, and there's a steady stream of Chinese visitors hedging their bets by
making offerings to the Hindu gods too. Free.
Buddha Tooth Relic Temple - Towering above southern Chinatown, this four-
story temple was completed only in 2007. The imposing main hall hosts a 27-foot statue
of Maitreya Buddha, and the sacred relic itself, reputedly one of Buddha Shakyamuni's
teeth, can be found on the fourth floor (visible only during daily ceremonies
Jamae Mosque - One of Singapore's oldest mosques, built in the 1830s by Tamil
Muslims in an Indian style. Note the stepped minarets outside. Free.
Sri Mariamman Temple - Singapore's oldest and most important Hindu temple
and worth a visit for the intricately carved gopuram (statuary above the entrance), which
gave adjacent "Pagoda Street" its name. This is an active temple, so take off your shoes
and don't disturb the worshippers. Free, but photo/video permit $3/6.
Thian Hock Keng Temple - The oldest Hokkien temple in Singapore, dating
back to 1821, although the structure was thoroughly refurbished in 2000. The brightly
colored, elaborate facade was constructed with ironwork from Scotland, tiles from
England and the Netherlands, and dragon-ornamented granite pillars from China. Free.
Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple - Little India's busiest and oldest temple,
dating back to 1881 — although the present structure was completed in 1986. The
temple is particularly busy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Be sure to take your
shoes off before venturing inside. Free.
Sasanaramsi Burmese Buddhist Temple - Completed in 1990, this is the
world's first and only Burmese temple outside Burma itself, equipped with an eye-
catching golden spire. Inside, the most remarkable features for the lay visitor are the
Buddha statues enhanced with swirling LED halos; be sure to climb up to the third floor
to see the largest and most stunning of the lot. Free.
Sun Yat Sen Nanyang Memorial Hall - Built in the late 1800s as Wan Qing
Yuan , the villa was offered in 1906 to Chinese revolutionary Sun Yat Sen, who stayed
here eight times while in exile. The villa has been lovingly restored and was reopened to
the public in 2001, but the contents of the museum inside are a little dull unless you have
a keen interest and solid background in Chinese history. $3.
Singapore Zoo - One of the best zoos in Asia, if not the world — it was endorsed by
the late Steve Irwin and Animal Planet uses it for some of its documentaries. The animals
are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet
moats. It is home to Ah Meng, a popular orangutan, and Inuka, the first polar bear born in
the tropics (although the polar bears are scheduled to be shipped off to cooler climes).
To spare yourself walking under the hot tropical sun, you can board a little train that
trundles through the park. $14.
Night Safari - A part of the Zoo but located on completely separate grounds that are
closed during the day, this is the world's first wildlife park built to be viewed at night. The
grounds are in fact larger than the main Zoo and only parts are accessible to visitors on
foot, so most people opt for the guided tram tour instead. There is a 30 minute show at
the amphitheater with trained animal displays three times per night. (Sit in the center
section three rows from the front for a nice surprise.) The tram tour is highly
recommended unless you have the time to do a lot of walking and it brings you the
eastern part of the park which is not accessible by walking. Lighting throughout the park
is minimal, but sufficient. Stopping at the second tram station is a must as there is a
walking path (The Leopard Trail) for viewing giraffes, flying squirrels, lions and others.
Flash photography is not allowed, so a tripod is recommended. Some other animals you
can expect to see include are various types of tigers, elephants, bats, flamingos,
porcupines, leopards, otters, badgers, and storks. Entry $18, tram $6.
Jurong BirdPark - A 20.2 hectare open-concept park dedicated to, you guessed it,
birds in all shapes and sizes. The Park specialises in birds from Southeast Asia and the
more exotic and colorful tropical birds, and its collection of more than 8,000 birds from
600 species is among the largest in the world. The park is attractively presented and
quite enjoyable even if you aren't a hardcore ornithologist. To ease the pain of slogging
around in the tropical heat, you can circle the park with the Panorail monorail. $Entry 14,
monorail $4.
Botanic Gardens - Features trees and plants from tropical climates around the
world. Walking and jogging trails are throughout. Outdoor sculptures dot the gardens.
Look for the girl on the swing that appears to hang from an invisible chain in the air. The
main entrance is on Bukit Timah Road. Free.
National Orchid Garden - This is where you can spot Singapore's national
flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim orchid, and many more. Accessible by bus or car,
parking at the visitor's center. $2.
Haw Par Villa - Formerly the Tiger Balm Gardens, this is the former site of the villa
of the Tiger Balm brothers, Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, now packed with an
incredibly bizarre assortment of statues illustrating Chinese legends and moral values.
The most famous bit is the Ten Courts of Hell, which demonstrate in gruesome detail
how sinners get punished in the underworld: for example, ingratitude is punished by
grilling on a red hot copper pillar, while cheating in exams merits having your body
dismembered and your intestines pulled out
Labrador Secret Tunnels - Opened in May 2005, there are two ways of looking
at these two restored British-era bunkers: either they're done a pretty good job of making
a tunnel interesting, or even if you dress it up with spot lights and recorded booms, it's
still just a bunch of tunnels. $8/5 adult/child.
Reflections at Bukit Chandu - Small but well-implemented commemorative
museum for the last stand of the Malay Regiment in World War II's Battle of Bukit Chandu.
Nearest bus stop Pasir Panjang Community Centre (lines 10, 30 from central
Singapore), but it's still a bit of a hike up the hill from here. If visiting here, make a short
detour to the free Canopy Walk next door, an elevated footpath through the jungle offering
nice views of Singapore's heartlands. $2.
Changi Chapel and Museum - Singapore's memorial to the notorious WW2
Japanese POW camp, the setting of James Clavell's King Rat. The current site is a
reconstruction and in a different location, but contains a replica of the original chapel and
informative exhibits about the squalid conditions of the prison. Free.
Sengkang LRT - For the transport enthusiast or those interested in seeing the
housing in which many Singaporeans live, the light rail is well worth a ride, as it traverses
past row upon row of unit blocks. On the West Loop, detour to Jalan Kayu from LRT
Thanggam station for some of Singapore's best prata (see Eat). Up to $1.10.
Carlsberg Sky Tower - Asia's tallest observation tower. It takes you up to a
height of 131m above sealevel and offers a 360-degree view of Sentosa, Singapore and
the Southern islands. On clear days the outlines of Malaysia and Indonesia can be seen.
$10/7 adult/child.
Fort Siloso - Formerly the largest British naval base in Fortress Singapore, its guns
staring balefully out towards the sea in preparation for enemy attack. The Japanese rode
bikes down the peninsula instead; after your visit here, be sure to visit the Battle Box at
Fort Canning Hill to find out what happened next. Now turned into a museum, you can
follow a tour through the area (complete with lots of wax figures) to find out what the life of
a recruit was like. Nearly doubled in size in 2004. $8/5 adult/child.
Sentosa Merlion - A stretched-out 37-metre version of the statue by the Singapore
River, which is lit up at night and shoots lasers from its eyes. Admission enables you to
take the elevator up into its mouth and gaze out over the nearby Port of Singapore, as well
as experience some seriously cheesy exhibits downstairs. $8/5 adult/child.
WHAT TO DO
While you can find a place to practice nearly any sport in Singapore — golfing, surfing,
scuba diving, even ice skating — due to the country's small size your options are rather
limited and prices are relatively high. For watersports in particular, the busy shipping
lanes and sheer population pressure mean that the sea around Singapore is murky, and
most locals head up to Tioman (Malaysia) or Bintan (Indonesia) instead. See also
Habitatnews and WildSingapore for news and updates about free tours and events.
Singapore has recently been experiencing a spa boom, and there is now plenty of choice
for everything from holistic Ayurveda to green tea hydrotherapy. However, prices aren't as
rock-bottom as in neighbors Indonesia and Thailand, and you'll generally be looking at
upwards of $70 even for a plain one-hour massage. Good spas can be found in most five-
star hotels and on Orchard, and Sentosa's Spa Botanica also has a good reputation.
There are also numerous shops offering traditional Chinese massage, which are mostly
legit, and "health centres", which are mostly not.
On the cultural side of things, Singapore has been trying loosen up and attract more
artists and performances. The star in Singapore's cultural sky is the Esplanade theatre by
the Riverside, a world-class facility for performing arts like classical music and the home
of the Singapore Symphony Orchestra . Pop culture options are more limited and
Singapore's home-grown arts scene remains rather moribund, but any bands and DJs
touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to perform in Singapore. In summer, don't miss
the yearly Singapore Arts Festival . Advance tickets for almost any cultural event can be
purchased from SISTIC , either online or from any of their numerous ticketing outlets,
including the Singapore Visitor Centre on Orchard Rd.
HOW TO REACH
By plane - Singapore is one of southeast Asia's largest aviation hubs, so unless
you're coming from Peninsular Malaysia or Batam/Bintan in Indonesia, the easiest way to
enter Singapore is by air. In addition to flagship carrier Singapore Airlines and its
regional subsidiary SilkAir , Singapore is also home to Tiger Airways , and Jetstar Asia ,
which took over Valuair. In addition to the locals, every carrier of any size in Asia offers
flights to Singapore, and there are direct services to Europe, the Middle East, Australia,
New Zealand, North America, and even South Africa. Within Asia, Singapore also has
excellent connections to the more important cities, particularly those in Indonesia,
Thailand, China and India.
Changi Airport - As befits the country's main airport and major regional hub status,
Changi Airport (SIN) is big, nice, and well organized, and immigration and baggage
distribution is remarkably fast. The airport is split three main terminals (T1, T2 and T3)
plus a dedicated Budget Terminal for low-cost airlines (currently only Tiger and Cebu
Pacific).
Seletar Airport - Seletar is Singapore's first civil aviation airport. While later airports
like Kallang and Paya Lebar have been closed and turned into a military airbase
respectively, Seletar is still in use to this day.
Berjaya Air flights to the Malaysian islands of Redang and Tioman use Seletar (XSP), not
Changi (SIN). The only practical means of access to Seletar is taxi; trips from the airport
incur a $3 surcharge.
Seletar is also Singapore's private aviation airport so if you own a private jet, you will most
likely land here.
By road - Singapore is linked by two land crossings to Peninsular Malaysia:
The Causeway is a very popular and thus terminally congested entry point connecting
Woodlands in the north of Singapore directly into the heart of Johor Bahru. While
congestion isn't as bad as it once was, the Causeway is still jam-packed on Friday
evenings (towards Malaysia) and Sunday evenings (towards Singapore). The Causeway
can be crossed by bus, train, taxi, car or foot.
A second crossing between Malaysia and Singapore, known as the Second Link, has
been built between Tuas in western Singapore and Tanjung Kupang in the western part
of Johor state. Much faster and less congested than the Causeway, it is used by some of
the luxury bus services to Kuala Lumpur and is strongly recommended if you have your
own car. There is no public transport across the Second Link, and only Malaysian
"limousine" taxis are allowed to cross it (and charge RM150 and up for the privilege).
Walking across is also not allowed, not that there would be any practical means to
continue the journey from either end if you did.
By bus - Direct to/from Malaysian destinations There are buses to/from Kuala Lumpur
(KL) and many other destinations in Malaysia through the Woodlands Checkpoint and the
Second Link at Tuas. Unfortunately, there is no central bus terminal and different
companies leave from all over the city.
By train - Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's Keretapi Tanah Melayu
(Malayan Railway or KTMB) network. It runs two day trains (the Ekspres Sinaran Pagi and
Ekspres Rakyat) and a sleeper service (Ekspres Senandung Malam) daily from Kuala
Lumpur. From Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, the Sinaran Pagi departs at 08:40, the
Ekspres Rakyat at 13:00 and the Senandung Malam at 22:15. There is also a day train
(the Lambaian Timur departing Singapore at 06:00) and sleeper (Ekspres Timuran
departing at 18:15) daily along the "Jungle Railway" between Singapore and Tumpat,
near Kota Bharu in the East Coast of Malaysia. Trains are clean and fairly efficient, but
slower than buses.
By boat - Ferries link Singapore with neighbouring Indonesian province of Riau
Islands, and the Malaysian state of Johor (regular ferry services to Tioman Island were
discontinued late in 2003). Singapore has four ferry terminals which handle international
ferries: HarbourFront (formerly World Trade Centre) near the southern part of the Central
Business District, Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal on the East Coast, as well as Changi
Ferry Terminal and Changi Point Ferry Terminal, at the eastern extremity of the island.
Cruise ships use the HarbourFront terminal. HarbourFront and Tanah Merah are
managed and operated by the Singapore Cruise Centre
